Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JANUARY 24, 2010 | RECIPES

Is January the longest month or is it just me? Here I am again with another healthy post — a salad built upon a supergrain: Quinoa (KEEN-wha).

Quinoa isn’t technically a grain. It’s a seed. So perhaps we should call it “superseed,” but that just sounds silly.

Taken from a page in my first cookbook, The Great Ranch Cookbook, this salad originally featured wild rice.

Ironically, wild rice is a seed, too, but you cook wild rice and quinoa like grains, so that’s why they’re lumped into the grain category, culinary speaking.

If you’re a farmer or a scientist, knowing the difference is crucial. If you’re a cook, like me, the nomenclature of “grains” vs. “seeds” is a minor diversion from the real point. What does it taste like?

Hang on, I’ll get to that.

Quinoa is a curious bugger. Each raw seed is just barely bigger than a pin-head.

If you, say, drop the bag on the floor, you’ll spend the next eternity trying to pick them all up.

Or so I’ve heard.

When cooked, it sprouts a little yellow tail — and quadruples in size. A cup of raw quinoa makes just shy of four cups cooked.

It’s simultaneously soft and crunchy. Nutty and a little earthy. And a wide-open foodstuff just begging for creativity.

And a toothpick. They like to stick in your teeth.

 

 

This ancient, South American staple has received a lot of press lately. (It’s because it’s January, right? We’re all scrambling to distance ourselves from decadent December.)

Or maybe this nutrient powerhouse is getting attention because it only takes 15 minutes to cook.

Interested in the protein-packed, vitamin-and-mineral-rich details? Slide over here. Want to read more about the history of quinoa? Wiki it here.

Just come back for a really tasty salad (and a preview of another way to use quinoa.)

 

Even though it only takes 15 minutes to cook, I should share a couple things. First, it needs a good rinse. It’s covered in a bitter resin that helps protected it from birds while growing. Most of the bitter compound is removed during processing for packaging, but a good rinse removes any last traces.

Since the seeds are so tiny, I use a chinois set over a bowl and give it four or five good rinses, changing the water in between. (A chinois is a very fine mesh strainer. A few layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter will work if your strainer is less fine.)

The shape of your pan matters, too. It’s best to use a pan that is wider than it is tall, otherwise the short 15 minute cooking time isn’t long enough to absorb all the water.

Cooking quinoa longer than 15 minutes makes it mushy. Some recipes call for cooking the quinoa in water for 1o minutes, then draining the water off and steaming it.

That’s too much trouble for me, especially since using a wide pan seems to do the trick.

After 15 minutes of cooking, turn off the heat and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Then lift the lid and fluff the quinoa with a fork. (If you lean in close, you’ll get a nice steam facial, too. I always like double-duty tasks.)

This salad is best served room temperature, so toss the quinoa until it cools, or spread it out on a baking sheet to cool (if you don’t mind washing another pan). That will help dry it out, too.

I’ve chosen Cara Cara oranges because I like the pretty salmon color, and they’re in season now. I’m using both dried cranberries and dried, tart cherries.

You can substitute other dried fruits: apricot, dates, pineapple, or even raisins (golden, please…the others look like bugs to me. Of course, what am I worried about? This “grain” has a tail!)

Like most composed salads, this tastes better after it sits for an hour, giving the flavors a chance to get acquainted.

Remember that 1 cup of quinoa turns into 4 cups cooked. I use 3 cups for this salad, saving the last cup for another recipe that I’ll share later this week. And it won’t be quite as healthy as this one.

It’s almost February, after all.

Red Quinoa Salad with Oranges, Cranberries and Pecans

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients
1 cup red quinoa (or white)
2 cups water
1/2 teaspoon salt

2 medium oranges
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/4 cup dried tart cherries
3 scallions, sliced thinly on bias
1/2 cup toasted, chopped pecans

3 tablespoons of orange juice*
1 tablespoon champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Method
1. Rinse the quinoa in several changes of water. Drain.

2. Place the quinoa in a wide saucepan and pour in 2 cups of water. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt.

3. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cover pan. Cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for 5 minutes.  Fluff with a fork, or to cool quickly, spread the quinoa on a baking sheet. (If quinoa seems too wet, line baking sheet with paper towels before spreading out to cool.)

While the quinoa is cooking, prepare the other ingredients.

4. Zest one of the oranges and set aside (for the vinaigrette). Peel the oranges and cut into segments (supreme). Save the orange pulp. Cut each segment in half and set aside.

5. Squeeze the orange pulps into a small saucepan. Place the dried fruit in the pan with the orange pulp juice and stir. Bring the juice just to a boil and then turn off the heat. Stir the fruit occasionally while the berries steep.

6. Whisk 3 tablespoons of orange juice with the reserved zest, and the vinegar. Whisk in the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Place the cooled quinoa in a large bowl. Top with the reserved orange segments, steeped berries, scallions and pecans. Toss until combined. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

*The juice from the segmented oranges is enough to steep the dried fruit, but not enough to make the vinaigrette, so you’ll need an additional 3 tablespoons of OJ for the vinaigrette.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | SEPTEMBER 07, 2009 | RECIPES

Cuke-Salad1

Bumping into a friendly foodie at my local farmers market, I notice her hands full of little yellow orbs. I thought they were mini-squashes but she says, no, they’re lemon cucumbers — and she loves to eat them out of hand, sprinkled with a little salt.

I didn’t pick one up then, but a few weeks later, I’m cruising through the Park City farmers market and spot the sunny little cukes again.

“Oh you don’t want those,” a helpful? woman says. “They’re bitter.” So natch, I buy one.

Let’s review: my trusted foodie friend says they’re delicious and I pass them up, yet a complete (nosy) stranger says phooey, and I buy. Go figure.

Ingredients

Nosy woman did say that I should buy the pale, delicate tasting Armenian cucumber, which later I discovered is also called a snake melon, because botanically it is a melon (C. flexuosus) yet it tastes like a cucumber. Perhaps I should call this salad Two Cukes & a Melon?

Armed with three different farmers market cucumbers (or two plus a melon that tastes like a cucumber) and in need of a salad to bring to a friend’s house for dinner, I naturally concluded a cucumber salad was in order.

Lemon-Cucumber

After cutting open the lemon cucumber, I was surprised to find mostly seeds and just a thin strip of flesh. Hard, crunchy flesh. Slightly bitter (sorry, nosy woman) with a hint of lemon.

I wanted to remove the seeds from the English and the Armenian cucumber anyway, so I scooped out the seeds from the lemon cucumber, too.

Armenian Cuke

I like the look of cucumbers slivers over circles or half moons. Notice I’m cutting on the bias (angled cut) to make longer slivers, just like I did with the green beans here.

OnionPop in a little red onion for color and maybe even a red chile pepper for heat. Toss with rice wine vinegar, a little sugar, salt and pepper.

Oh, and torn basil. I like lots of basil in this salad, but I’ve only put a modest amount in the ingredient list. Add more if you’re basil-crazy like me.

Cuke-Salad2

Farmers Market Three Cucumber Salad

This refreshing salad isn’t very sweet, unlike most cucumber salads, so if you prefer more sweetness, by all means, add an additional tablespoon, or two, of sugar. I prefer to taste the cucumber and basil, and too much sugar interferes with the clean taste of cucumbers. Removing the seeds helps cut any bitterness the cukes may have, plus it makes for a more attractive salad.

Serves 4

Ingredients
1/2 of an English cucumber
1/2 of an Armenian cucumber
1 lemon cucumber
1/4 of a small red onion
1/2 small red chile pepper (like a red jalapeno)
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 medium fresh basil leaves

Method
1. Cut all three cucumbers in half, lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds. Cut, at an angle, into 1/4-inch strips. Place in a large bowl or in a Ziplock bag.

2. Slice the red onion and red chile pepper into 1/8-inch slices and place in the blow with the cucumbers.

3. Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper and pour over the cucumbers. Toss a few times and place in the refrigerator for at least an hour, tossing occasionally. (It’s actually easier to marinate them in a Ziplock, because you just grab the bag and turn it once in a while.)

4. Drain the cucumbers when you are ready to serve, and place them in a serving bowl. Tear the basil into small pieces and scatter on top. Toss once more. Taste and add more salt or pepper if desired.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 03, 2009 | RECIPES

Maybe “trend” isn’t the correct term. Perhaps resurgence is a better description for the proliferation of butter lettuce on restaurant menus (like the spanking new Kent Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen and his “butter” wedge with Green Goddess dressing (another resurgence).

Trend – resurgence – either way I’m seeing butter lettuce salads everywhere. In glossy food magazines and in new cookbooks published in 2009, (Family-Style Meals at the Hali’imaile General Store by Beverly Gannon, Joan Namkoong and Laurie Smith) for example, where Chef Gannon uses butter lettuce cups to hold hoisin and plum-sauced chicken and shiitakes.

Recently in Dallas, I spotted this beauty at Whole Foods. I was taken aback by the loveliness of the red-tinged lettuce. It was the first time I had noticed red butter lettuce.

Red-Butter-Lettuce

So I took it to my brother’s house, where it became the basis of a chicken piccata salad (that I passed off as healthy to my sister-in-law, even though I used half a jar of ghee first frying capers, then the chicken, followed closely by half a stick of cold butter to finish the sauce — I’m going to Hades for that, but I digress.)

Red butter lettuce is in the same lactuca sativa family as other butterhead lettuces such as Bibb (small, bright green leaves) and Boston (larger, lighter green leaves). Butterhead lettuces are popular because they’re tender and mild tasting; the antitheses of say, dandelion greens.

Peel away the outer layers (good for sandwiches) and you’ll find the core, or “heart,” to be perfectly shaped little cups, great for using as lettuce wraps — edible containers for all kinds of composed salads (chicken, tuna, rice, etc.)

Cleaned-Lettuce

Or, tear the lettuce into bite-size pieces and use it as a base for a fraudulent “healthy” salad, as I did.

Chicken Piccata Salad

Game plan is to make the vinaigrette first. Next, prep the salad and leave it chilling in the refrigerator while you make the chicken and sauce. I bet you can make this whole dish in less than 45 minutes.

Serves 4

Ingredients
For the salad
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 small clove garlic, minced
Pinch of sugar
Salt and pepper
2-1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried and torn into bite-size pieces
1/4 pound cooked green beans
1/4 pound cooked broccoli florets
1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes, halved

For the chicken
1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast, pounded thin (between 1/4 and 1/2-inch thick)
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour (or cornstarch)
Ghee* or Canola or olive oil for frying
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 tablespoon capers, drained
Zest of 1 lemon
4 tablespoons lemon juice
5 tablespoons cold butter

Method
Make the vinaigrette
1. Whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, garlic, pinch of sugar and pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil. Taste with a piece of lettuce and add more lemon juice or olive oil or sugar, salt and pepper to your liking. Set aside.

2. Toss the lettuce with the cooked green beans, broccoli and tomatoes. Place the bowl in the refrigerator to chill while you make the chicken.

Make the chicken
1. Season the pounded chicken breasts with salt and pepper and lightly dust with flour or cornstarch. Heat enough oil in a skillet to generously cover the bottom but not deeper than 1/8-inch. Heat the oil over medium-high heat to just below the smoking point. Fry the chicken until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes, on one side, then turn and fry until done, another 3-4 minutes. Remove from pan and keep warm. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of oil.

2. Return the skillet to the stove and turn the heat to medium-high. Stir in the shallots and capers and saute just for a minute. Stir in the lemon juice and cook until it reduces by half. Remove pan from heat and swirl in cold butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, letting each one melt before adding the next. Stir in the lemon zest and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Assemble the salad
1. Toss the salad with the vinaigrette. Divide the salad onto four plates. Slice the chicken, at an angle into 1/2-inch thick slices. Top the salads with the chicken, dividing evenly. Spoon the sauce over the chicken and serve.

Chicken-Picatta-Salad

*Find jars of ghee (which is clarified butter) in the refrigerated section of Whole Foods, or in specialty stores that carry Indian ingredients.

(NOTE: that piece of toast in the picture is from a loaf called “seeduction” from Whole Foods. I call it “seederator.” It’s unbelievably delicious.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 12, 2009 | RECIPES

Don’t you just love the name baby fennel?  It sounds much more beguiling than just fennel.

Baby vegetables are either cultivated to be just babies or, including this baby fennel, are harvested before they reach maturity, so they are miniature versions of the fully matured vegetable. Generally, that means they’re not only more tender, but also more delicate in flavor.

Fennel is sometimes mistakenly labeled anise, which is a completely different plant from fennel.

If you have fennel seeds in a spice jar in your pantry, those also are not from the same species that produces this lovely, off-white bulb. Confusing, I know.

Fennel seeds come from the common fennel plant and the bulbous vegetable is called Florence fennel, or finocchio in Italian.

Florence fennel can be eaten raw or it can be cooked. Raw, it has a crisp crunch and a delicate, understated flavor of licorice, much milder than the fennel seed.

Roasting the fennel, like you would butternut squash, sweetens the fennel, making it silky tender, too.

To use the fennel in a salad, cut the bulb from the green stalks. The feathery fronds on the stalks, which resemble dill in appearance, can be used as a garnish.

I like to shave the fennel using a mandolin, and the one in the picture above is my favorite mandolin. It’s a Japanese Benriner.

Once cut, the fennel will oxidize (turn brown), so shave it just before you plan to serve it to retain the whitish color.

Tossing it with a delicate acid, like orange juice, will slow down the oxidization.

We’re making an orange and fennel salad here, so after shaving the bulb into delicate ribbons, peel the pith from an orange, and separate the segments of the orange.

Squeeze the pulp of the orange after you’ve removed the sections over the fennel and toss.

To finish the salad, toss the shaved fennel and orange segments together, and then snip pieces of the fennel fronds over the top. Season with a little salt and pepper before serving.

If you are so inclined (and don’t live with an olive hater) adding a few chopped black olives would really enhance this salad, adding a salty element to the sweet taste of the orange and fennel.

I especially like the wrinkly, dry-cured black olives. But, alas, I do live with an olive hater, so no olives for this salad.

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