Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 23, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Call me an old-soul, but I’ve always loved dining early. It leaves more of the evening for other things, like going to the movies (or just walking off the meal.)

J & G Steakhouse just unveiled a summer deal that will likely attract all souls: a three-course, prix fixe menu for only $35.

Looking at the menu, I’m thinking of several possible combinations.

1st course:
Heart of romaine Caesar salad
Steamed shrimp salad with Champagne vinaigrette
Sweet pea soup

2nd course:
Grilled black Angus flat iron steak with frites
Slow baked salmon with rhubarb compote
Lemon pepper chicken steak

3rd course:
Warm chocolate cake with caramel ice cream
Cheesecake with strawberry jam and rhubarb ice cream
Cinnamon Ice cream or any other number of flavors (oh, please let coconut be one of the flavors!)

This summer bonanza is available in the dining room seven evenings a week, from 5 p.m to 7 p.m.  It’s too light outside to enjoy the twinkling, city-lights view, but at that price, stick around for an after dinner drink just to watch the sun go down.

Visit www.jgsteakhousescottsdale.com to make a reservation.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 16, 2009 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

eggtrend

Trend: a line of general direction or movement.

I can’t help but think that eggs on dinner menus is a rising trend.

The French and Spanish have served eggs for lunch and dinner for hundreds of years, so can it really be a trend if it’s been around that long?

Apparently, we are just now catching on. Eggs are peppering the menus of some of the trendiest restaurants across the country. Here’s just a sampling:

I tasted a smashing side dish at Zengo in Denver recently — green beans sauteed with soy sauce and finished with scrambled eggs.

At L20 in Chicago, braised pork belly shares the plate with an egg, and York Street in Dallas serves duck three ways, garnished with a soft poached egg.

In Scottsdale, The Mission plates up arepas (open-faced sandwiches with cornmeal patties instead of wheat bread) with an optional topping of a fried egg.

At Christopher’s, in the Biltmore Shopping Center in Phoenix, I had a lovely frissee salad topped with a gently poached egg and copious amounts of smoky bacon — a classic French bistro dish, to be sure, but all of a sudden trendy again.

Take a look at the menu of your favorite restaurant. Do you spot an egg?

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 16, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

wowhiltonThirty restaurants, more than 100 wines, two sun-soaked afternoons and I’m toast.

I’m talking about the West of Western Culinary Festival that took place this past weekend at the Phoenix Art Museum.

Other food writers are going to give you more details about the specifics — which chef did what dish — in greater detail than I will. (Coming soon, entertaining wrap-ups from Howard Seftel from The Arizona Republic, Carey Sweet in the Scottsdale Republic, and Jess Harter’s already posted his East Valley Tribune summary). But I do have a couple of observations that I’d like to add.

First, if you are a restaurant junkie, this festival needs to be on your schedule for next year. West of Western attracts some (I’m wondering why not all) of the top tables in town.

It also showcases the talent behind some of the top hotel and resort restaurants: the Four Seasons, the Phoenician, Wild Horse Pass (restaurant Kai, the only Mobil 5-star restaurant in Arizona), The Wyndham (we have a Wyndham?) and the Sheraton downtown, the Fairmont Scottsdale, two Marriotts (Camelback Inn and JW Marriott at Desert Ridge, the new Montelucia Resort, the Pointe Hilton at Tapatio Cliffs,  and even La Posada in Winslow.

Noticeably missing were Binkley’s (and Cafe Bink), Los Sombreros, Barrio Cafe, Tonto Bar & Grill and Cartwright’s, Lon’s at the Hermosa Inn, the new Mission, Christopher’s, Vincent’s, Sea Saw, Cowboy Ciao, Digestif (although Chef Curry did a demo), and many more.

Some chefs put more into this festival than others. And the festival goers noticed. (A blob of  burrata from Prado? Bland garlic panna cotta that blended into the white plate from the new, hip Posh?)

Some chefs went for shock and awe: Kai handed out four samples, including my favorite, pulled lamb on fry bread with fig and curry “mud”, Quiessence dazzled with at least 10 (I lost count). Roka Akor grilled Moroccan Korean spiced lamb chops that perfumed all of central Phoenix and presented elegant butterfish tataki.

Tapino did a different kind of shock: foie gras ice cream float with local Sonora Brewing Co. root beer.  There wasn’t much of a foie gras taste, but he did get a lot of attention, at least until he ran out before 2 p.m., with still 2 more hours of the festival to go.

But here’s the thing, most of the restaurants missed the opportunity to connect with their target market. Sure, they handed out generous samples, but very few took advantage of their captive audience by marketing their restaurants. They could have been handing out critical information.

If I were a restaurant giving away that much free food, I’d also create a small flyer with what the dish was (so the customer could remember it later, because frankly, after eating thirty samples, who can remember what? Who did that delicious seared scallop atop mushroom cream, or the cocoa nib dusted scallop, or the scallop on top of the farro salad and wasn’t there one more scallop dish –all on Saturday?)

The flyer needs a few other things, too, perhaps a few key menu items on it, maybe tout a fabulous happy hour or at the very least, promote the restaurant’s website. SOMETHING.

Huge kudos to the organizers and volunteers are in order as the festival ran as smooth as the Ecuadorian chocolate pudding from Kai. The boy scout volunteers kept the trash empty and the festival staff kept the water tubs full. Cooking demonstrations, culinary lectures and short food-focused films gave eaters a chance to take a break, clear out some tummy room before heading back through the gastro gaunlet.

All in all, the festival was fabulous — again. I know that as I took each sample, I made sure I asked what it was, and then I thanked the chef for being there, making the festival worth the ticket price. Even though I’m pointing out some shortcomings of some chefs, I so appreciate them coming and feeding us, giving us a glimpse into their fascinating world of creativity. Because, at the end of the day, I am a restaurant junkie, just like all the other festival goers.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 13, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

palatteWhen I read on Chow Bella this week that the adorable, quirky Palatte restaurant was closing, my heart sank a bit — I loved that restaurant.

Chow Bella reports that the 4th Avenue and Filmore Street breakfast/lunch spot “got an offer they couldn’t refuse.” That’s the good news. The bad news is we lost gem.

I penned a review for AZ Central.com a few months after they opened in 2007, in which I opened with:

“I’m quite certain that no matter what I write in this review, the newly opened Palatte in the historic Cavness house…will be crazy busy for a long time to come.”

That, of course, was well before the economic meltdown last fall.  And truth be told, after I wrote the review, I probably only visited Palatte as a regular customer a handful of times, even though it was a favorite.

I’m going to cop out and blame proximity…the restaurant is more than 30 miles from my house. It’s got me thinking, though, about some other favorite restaurants of mine, and perhaps I should be a little more diligent in returning to them.

As a foodie, it’s easy to get caught up in chasing the next new restaurant. It’s kind of like wanting a puppy because it’s cute. But eventually the puppy grows up and isn’t so cute anymore, but it’s still a living, breathing creature and needs love and attention.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 09, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

If I hadn’t already blown my birthday money on the West of Western festival, I’d definitely blow it on this upcoming wine dinner at Binkley’s Restaurant in Cave Creek, featuring Frank Family Vineyards from Napa, and sponsored by AZ Wines of Carefree (my favorite boutique wine shop.)

The six course dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. on Monday, March 23rd ($120++) begins with passed hors d’oeuvres and bubbles, followed by an asparagus course with baby beets, chevre mousse, and Meyer lemon zabaglione. Then there is vanilla gnocchi with snow peas, brown butter crusted grouper, 5-spice seared duck breast with a huckleberry pancake, root beer braised short ribs, and finally, a chocolate raisin parfait, served with a Frank Family port, of course.

Wow! I didn’t list all the accouterments under each course, or mention the individual wines that will be paired with each course, but I can promise you that the dinner will be spectacular and worth every cent. So if you’ve not splurged on something in a while, you might want to consider this dinner.

And if you’re feeling super generous, pick me up at 6:15.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | FEBRUARY 20, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Now that’s a creative way to entice diners, don’t you think?

Cleverness aside, the Sunday through Thursday dinner only special menu is a smoking deal at one of the hippest restaurants in Scottsdale.

It’s a three course menu for only 30 bucks (excluding tax/tip/drinks, of course.)

Choose either a land or sea starter, a sushi entree and finish up with green tea mochi ice cream with fresh fruit.

Let’s see, would I like the tuna tataki with ponzu, daikon wrapped salmon, Kampachi with diced jalapenos, Kobe tataki, chicken tandoori skewer or miso marinated eggplant better?

Tough choice. Take a friend and get one of each. Sweet!

Details: Susi Roku (at the W Hotel) 7277 E. Camelback Road., Scottsdale, 480-970-2121 (www.sushiroku.com)

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 24, 2008 | NEWS & NIBBLES

slogarDeep. Fried. Chicken. There are no sweeter words than these when used together. (I. Love. You. is a close second, though.) Fried chicken is my all-time favorite comfort food. Not favorite food, mind you, that would be a hamburger — Dad’s hamburger to be more specific.

Growing up, fried chicken was a weekly staple. I can’t say that Mom’s fried chicken is the best I’ve ever had, but it certainly formed the basis of my comfort craving. Mom’s chicken never had the skin left on, and the skillet-fried chicken’s crust wasn’t particularly crunchy the way the best fried chicken’s crust is. I’m quite certain that’s because there was no skin, and only one layer of coating.

I’ve had two ethereal experiences with fried chicken that have left indelible marks on my psyche. Twice, I’ve eaten fried chicken where I swear I heard angels sing. The first was in the town of Crested Butte in Colorado. The restaurant (pictured) is called The Slogar, an old restaurant with even older cast-iron skillets. Their chicken isn’t deep fried, per se, but it is fried in oil deep enough to almost qualify as deep frying.

The second experience happened just last Sunday at a new restaurant in Phoenix,  noca. Sunday Simple Sundays at noca feature three-course prix fixe menus, with a rotating menu. Last Sunday happened to be fried chicken night. Deep. Fried. Chicken. And I heard the angels sing. Glory, hallelujah! It’s simultaneously fortunate and unfortunate that noca’s fried chicken isn’t available on the regular menu every day — fortunate because I can’t afford the calories on a weekly basis, unfortunate because I want that fried chicken every week.

I never make fried chicken at home for two reasons: the aforementioned macabre caloric count and the mess. Making fried chicken is a slovenly bothersome proposition. Inevitably, flour gets all over the kitchen, copious amounts of oil splatters everywhere, and then what to do will all that left over oil? Convert it to biodiesel? I don’t have a Mercedes Benz anyway. No, it’s much better to eat fried chicken in someone else’s kitchen, especially if that kitchen happens to be in an old Victorian house in the middle of the Rockies, or in the tres chic, new restaurant on Camelback Road.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | NOVEMBER 21, 2008 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

Everyone needs a laugh now and then — especially in these grim, gloomy times. If you sign up, Zagat sends a weekly email out with restaurant openings and other news. If you scroll to the bottom of the email, they post a quote called “Outtake of the Week” gleaned, I’m sure from the Zagat surveys.

Some are downright hilarious, including the one I read this week: “Only the flies on our table enjoyed the meal.” It helps to understand how Zagat guides are put together. Some people think the ratings are done by professional restaurant critics.

It’s really foodies who rate the restaurants. Some are professionals but most are not — they are just food lovers or what I think of as restaurant groupies. For each restaurant listed for rating, the person rating gives a number for food, decor and service, along with a cost of one dinner with one drink plus a tip.

There is also space for comments, and I’m guessing the tickling tidbits published as “Outtakes” come from those comments. Sometimes they are zingers — like this one: “Take a look at the staff on the way in — that’s the last you’ll see of them.”

Go to the home page if you want to sign up for the weekly newsletter and see for yourself.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | NOVEMBER 04, 2008 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

© Alexander Mayrhofer

I had heard that monkfish liver was the “foie gras of the sea.” If you don’t like foie gras, you can just stop reading now, because you’ll have no appreciation for what I’m about to tell you.

We’re in Hawaii, me for a culinary conference, him for his usual business. Carrie and Jay live here. She works with him and Jay is kind of like a client, I guess, but a cool one. Anyway, C and J are locals so they wanted to take us to someplace unique for dinner, somewhere not splattered all over the tourist map.

We end up at the most charming and hip izyaka (a Japanese drinking establishment with a heavy emphasis on food — think Spanish tapas bar, without the Spain-part). It’s called Sushi Izyaka Gaku and it is too darling for words.

The lighting is low, the chefs behind the sushi bar are dressed in traditional, bright yellow, black and red garb (they’re Master Sushi Chefs, by the way) and contemporary jazz is playing in the background…or was until the evening waned and then downtempo techno lounge music kicked in as the crowd turned noticably younger.

But back to the food. C and J are adventurous sports, and so are we. So we put ourselves in the hands of our server. He looks like a kid from the Midwest, but he speaks fluent Japanese, so off and on throughout the night, he counsels us on a dish to see if it’s to our liking, and then turns and shouts something inaudible in Japanese to the chefs (it’s not a big place, he probably didn’t have to shout but it seems everyone shouts in these izyakas.)

We start with lovely nori wrapped King crab and cucumbers. Delish. Next we have a small slab of meltingly tender butterfish, the thin strip of skin crisped over an open fire. Divine. Next is a hamachi collar — also seared over an open flame. A collar is the jawbone of the fish, and is prized for the rich, dark meat tucked away in cartilage.

Next came the monkfish liver. Three salmon colored disks floating in a citrusy, ponzu sauce with microscopic slices of green scallion. The disk was chilled but three seconds in my mouth it started to melt into a creamy pool of fish liver.

That doesn’t sound as good as it was. It’s hard to describe, but if you love foie gras AND you love strong fishes (salmon, mackerel, etc.) then you would love monkfish liver. I’m not a monkfish lover…I don’t like the texture of monkfish. But I am now a monkfish liver lover. Sublime.

These were just our appetizers, something for the Asahi and Shochu to wash down. I don’t have enough space here to finish the meal description so I’ll save that for another post. I just wanted to tell you about the monkfish liver, you know, in case you wanted to run out and get some.

30
Oct

Mon Dieu!

By Gwen Ashley Walters | OCTOBER 30, 2008 | TRAVEL EATS

Never would I have expected to have such lovely French bistro food in the land of pineapples and papayas, but that’s exactly what I found at Du Vin, in downtown Honolulu.

I almost missed the chance, too. When I travel, I like to eat local, what the locals eat, and most often, that’s the regional cuisine of the area.

But what do local foodies do when they’ve had their fill of their own cuisine? They explore other global flavors. Our host foodies wanted to take us to Du Vin. I protested because I wanted to eat something more Hawaiian, not Parisian, for goodness sakes.

When we found ourselves downtown one evening, we strolled by the little French brasserie, a narrow, dark space on Bethel Street. Past the dark lounge, way in the back is an open courtyard, even more narrow than the main room, with tables snuggled closely together. There is no way you’d know you were in Hawaii sitting in this Provencal garden. French patio chairs and tables, potted plants, antique wall hangings, and a mosaic tiled floor more than mask the Pacific Island location –they transport you to the narrow streets of Nice.

The food tastes as French as the decor looks French. We slurp a roasted tomato basil soup and devour moules & frites (pictured) — with the most plump, tender mussels swimming in a garlicky wine broth, and lots of crusty French bread, soaking up the flavorful broth. We have a piece of Hawaiian fish (amber jack tuna to be specific) that’s seared to a golden brown and bathed in an olive butter sauce, and sitting atop haricots blancs (white beans) and frisee. And finish with banana and chocolate crepes (the bananas are local)… Mon dieu! It was exquisite. And I’m really glad that I didn’t miss it, even if French cafes are not de rigueur in aloha land.

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