Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 15, 2011 | TRAVEL EATS

This post started out as a celebration of a rocking taco joint near downtown Austin, Texas.

I fell for the buttercup-cute bungalow house with creaky wooden floors, and after chowing down on a couple of above-average breakfast tacos, I made a mental note to return for the “drowning” flautas — corn tortillas stuffed with meat, rolled tight and deep-fried, and then smothered in chile broth.

As far as I can tell, flautas are the same thing as taquitos, dorados (see Austin’s El Naranjo dorados mentioned here) and also referred to as “El Paso-style” tacos. I’ve also seen them called “rolled tacos” in Phoenix.

But between writing words and posting pictures, I saw a tweet from Kay Marley-Dilworth (@ATXFoodnews on Twitter). She said The Screaming Goat and another independent Austin eatery, Lift Cafe, had closed.

So now this post is a eulogy.

I don’t know why The Goat closed but it wasn’t busy when we visited. I chalked it up to timing — a mid-week, mid-morning breakfast taco run.

Crazy, really, because the breakfast tacos were just as munch-worthy as those from other Austin bellwether establishments like Torchy’s Tacos and Taco Deli. The salsas were even better.

Two layers of moist corn tortillas, generously piled with a choice of two fillings (eggs, potatoes, cheese, beans, bacon or spicy chorizo) for only a buck seventy?

Hard to beat — or so I thought.

So what happened?

Was it the location? Was the food inconsistent? Later I saw comments on Twitter and Facebook that said “Austin is a tough restaurant town.”

Isn’t every town?

It reminded me of a cool little Mexican spot near downtown Phoenix I reviewed for PHOENIX Magazine called Verde.

Verde seemed to have lots going for it. Two talented, dedicated owners, some tasty Mexican food, and a urban-esque hip setting.

Like The Screaming Goat, the only thing that seemed to be missing was a steady stream of customers.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 09, 2010 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

Bryan’s BBQ in Cave Creek is known for their pecan smoked meats, traditional but creative sides (olive-studded coleslaw) and a fine bottle selection of craft brews. In fact, I reviewed them for Phoenix Magazine last year.

I just tasted a new tomato sandwich chef/owner Bryan Dooley and his sous chef Rob Olson put on the menu for summer.

Holy smokes.

What’s BBQ-y about this sandwich? Nothing.

Well, maybe the fact that they smoke the sea salt sprinkled on the tomatoes in the pecan wood oven.

And the djion mustard sauce has a smidgen of molasses. And they’re serving it with the soft white bread that comes with all the barbecue plates.

Of course, they’re slathering said bread with butter and toasting it to perfection on the griddle.

The watercress garnish? Well, they are a couple of trained chefs.

There isn’t anything fancy about this sandwich, though.

It’s just one delicious bite of summer.

Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ
Tomato sandwich ($7.95, with 1 side)
6130 East Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek
(480) 575-7155

28
May

Sweet Spot

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 28, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Chocolate-Layer-CakeExactly one year ago, I started writing for PHOENIX Magazine.

Each month I have the privilege to describe a dessert from a local restaurant in a column called “Sweet Spot.”

(Yeah, tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it.)

I also write a “local product” column and restaurant reviews for the magazine, which I love writing, but the dessert column sends me into an ethereal, nectared orbit.

I’ve written about insanely delicious cakes (white chocolate sticky cake from Mosaic) and rustic tarts (apple pecan from Coup des Tartes), light-as-air macarons that could shame the French (Essence Bakery) and desserts that defy description (raspberry nougat box with pop rocks from Roka Akor).

Just wait until you see what’s coming up.

The reason this job makes me pinch myself is because I didn’t grow up eating dessert after every meal, although I think I would have been perfectly suited to do so.

Little-Sweet-Tooth

Little Ms. Sweet Tooth

Why? “All my tooths are sweet,” to quote tweeter @chrislee, quoting his four year-old daughter.

Let’s just say I’m making up for lost time.

No longer do I feel guilty about ordering dessert after a meal, even knowing that I probably don’t need a dessert. Seriously, who needs dessert?

Pastry chefs weren’t born out of necessity. They were born out of want. Frankly, I want to meet every pastry chef in the world, and taste their best creation.

I’m always searching for the next “to live for” dessert because, the way I see it, a girl’s best friend isn’t a diamond.

It’s sugar on a plate … and a fork. Maybe two.

EatenCake

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 20, 2008 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

It’s true…. I’m writing for PHOENIX Magazine now. I had only told a couple of friends because I wanted to see my name in print before I started telling the world. Just because I turned in articles, didn’t mean they would soak up ink on a page, I thought. But today, a friend forwarded me a blog entry from the Phoenix New Times restaurant critic, Michele Laudig.

She writes in her 6/19 post that the magazine unveils three new scribes, including me. I haven’t seen the July issue yet…it’s June 20, for crying out loud… but regular subscribers apparently get the next month’s issue about two weeks before it hits the newsstand.

I am extremely honored to write for PHOENIX Magazine. I loved reading long-time critic Nikki Buchanan’s reviews, even though I didn’t always agree with her, nor experience the same dining experience she did that formed the basis of her reviews.

Not often, but occasionally, I thought her choice of words were brutal and unnecessarily hurtful. There are ways to convey you have issues with food and/or service without interjecting heart-piercing words. But I admired her talent for writing — describing food so that the reader could taste it — and her wealth of knowledge about food and restaurants in general.

Before I agreed to write for the magazine, I met with the editor. Rumors were swirling about the circumstances of Buchanan’s departure. It was a “He said, she said,” scenario. I grew up as the daughter of a newspaper editor. My Dad had built a figurative firewall around his news/editorial department that the advertisers were constantly trying to climb over. He never once caved in even though the pressure, at times, was unrelenting.

I felt comfortable enough after my meeting with the editor to start writing for the magazine, and I made it excruciatingly clear that I would bail if anything happens in the course of my work for them that compromises my standards. I do understand that advertisers bring money to the table. I also understand that the real customer is the reader, and the reader has every right to expect and receive credible information from the writers that is in no way influenced by advertising dollars.

My goal, in writing for PHOENIX Magazine, as it is for every other client I write for, is to be honest, to entertain, and to share the passion of food I have with all who read what I write.

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