Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 20, 2009 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

Bourbon-Steak-Fries

(Image courtesy Bourbon Steak)



French fries never go out of style.

But lately, fries have made a resurgence of sorts, appearing on the menus of high dollar steakhouses, quirky neighborhood spots and upscale fast food joints, not to mention gracing the cover of Gourmet.

Some may think that the big daddy of all fries is found under the golden arches. While we’d like to poo-poo that idea, the truth is Micky D’s set the standard for hot, skinny, salty fries.

We’d rather have a hot batch of spuds from one of these five – make that six – Phoenix area restaurants.

Didn’t really want to put a chain at the top of the heap, but the fries speak for themselves and nobody does a better fry than Bourbon Steak. Oh, and they’re free – a gratis nibble before the main meal.

So, without further ado, here are five fries that are worth the caloric splurge.


(drum roll, please…)



1.Bourbon Steak. Without a doubt, the best French fries in the Valley are the trio of duck fat fried sticks from Michael Mina’s sleek steakhouse at the Scottsdale Fairmont.

Three silver cups filled with crispy spuds – one speckled with garlic and herbs, another glazed with truffle oil and a third dusted with spicy smoked paprika. The accompanying sauces – oniony ketchup, creamy truffle aioli, and smoky barbecue sauce – are just icing on the cake.

Maybe the presentation has something to do with it, but more than likely, it’s the duck fat.


2. Cafe Bink. But only because the chef cooks them not once, not twice, but THREE times. A gentle par boil first, followed by two rendezvous with the fryer. The result? Crisp on the outside, airy and tender on the inside.


3. Christopher’s Restaurant and Crush Lounge does two kinds of frites. One type is crispy matchsticks but we’re more taken with the russet and sweet potato fry medley. The truffled, spicy ketchup is a bonus.


4. Maizie’s Cafe & Bistro. This cozy uptown neighborhood bar serves French fries that, (are you sitting down?), actually taste like potatoes. Amazing, but true.


5. The Tuck Shop. Just because they’re not called French fries, doesn’t mean they’re not. Patatas bravas are fat sticks of herb-crusted taters served with garlicky aioli and a bowl of smoked paprika spiked tomato sauce – a Spanish twist worth seeking out.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 23, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

beef-tenderloin

Just because you can make a dish in your home kitchen doesn’t mean that you necessarily want to.

It might be because of the mess (deep frying) or the lengthy ingredient list (mole) or the whole production of it all.

Or, maybe you lack certain professional equipment (a grill that burns at 1,700 degrees, for instance).

And frankly, certain foods just taste better when made by a talented chef and his or her crew.

Bonus? No dishes to clean up.

Here’s our list of the top 10 dishes best left in the hands of a capable restaurant — and why:

1.  French fries

Let us count the ways way. First, there’s the mess. And then hassle of double frying to produce crisp spuds. We even know a chef who thrice cooks his fries. What to do with all the left over oil?

2.  Egg rolls

Or any Chinese food, for that matter. Too many ingredients, too much assembly required and too much deep frying.

3.  Sashimi

Sushi chefs know how to get fresh fish, know how to cut it and nobody gets hurt. Unless it’s blowfish.

4.  Souffles

When a souffle falls at home before it reaches the table, that’s not the only thing that deflates.

5.  Tamales

It takes a village to make a tamale. That’s why Mexicans make tamales at home only on special occasions, like Christmas and the birth of a child.

6.  Soft shell crabs

First there’s the matter of cleaning them (removing their guts if we’re gonna get graphic). And then that frying thing.

7.  Foie gras

Not only is there the beige matter that’s high on the ick factor (removing the membrane), most home cooks don’t know what to do with a lobe of foie gras — and it’s rather expensive for experimentation.

8.  Steak

One could argue that grilling a steak at home is one of life’s simple pleasures. But isn’t cutting into a juicy steak that’s just come off a 1,700 degree grill is much more pleasurable? Oh yeah, especially if butter poaching prior to grilling is involved.

9.  Pizza

Unless you have installed a umpteen-thousand dollar pizza oven in your back yard (and you know who you are, MG), re-creating wood-oven, artisan pizza is best left to the experts; like the one in Phoenix, the only pizza maker who’s won a James Beard Award for it.

10. Any dish from The French Laundry

Even if you wanted to, you probably couldn’t. That is not a slam about your cooking skills. It is a testament to the  general mystique of dining under Thomas Keller’s roof. You’ve at least seen the cookbook, yes?

So, what’s on your list of dishes best left to restaurants? Indian curries or tandoori? Turtle soup or gumbo? How about goat?

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