Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 29, 2011 | NEWS & NIBBLES

 

It’s that time of year again, when everyone and Bob’s uncle crank out a trends list.

We maintain a running list of food and beverage finds throughout the year. The ones with multiple entries are considered for our year-end Food Fads or Trends? list.

In 2009 and 2010, we easily identified Sweet 16 Trends (or Fads). This year it wasn’t so easy — we settled on 10.

Are they trends or fads, or just really good at bubbling to the top via marketing and mentions?

You decide…

Ingredients:

1. Rabbit

We joked in April about rabbit belly becoming the next hot trend. (Could “Beyond Pork Belly” be a trend? A good writer friend says lamb belly is the latest rage).

Back to the bunny, it turns out we weren’t too far off, but it wasn’t just the belly… it was the hindquarters and loin, too. Home cooks got in on the act, too, with more access to fresh rabbit through high-end butcher shops, grocery stores and sites such as Gilt Taste.

2. Harissa

We’re talking about the hot red chile condiment originating in Tunisia, not the Arab soupy lamb and wheat dish that goes by the same name. Restaurants, such as FnB in Scottsdale paired the spicy relish with vegetables for a kick, and others were marinating meats with harissa, such as Barley Swine in Austin.

3. Kimchi

This fermented cabbage dish is the first thing we think of when thinking about Korean food. We spotted kimchi (also spelled kimchee) at farmers’ markets and on restaurant menus and in cookbooks. And of course, the Kimchi Chronicles launched on PBS this year, featuring Marja Vongerichten.

4. Black foods

Rice? Check…Forbidden rice. Lentils? Check…black beluga. Pasta? Check..squid ink. Garlic? Check…fermented black garlic. Crackers? Check… blackened with charcoal powder. We did a round-up of black foods earlier this year.

Beverages:

5. Bitters

A common theme from planet cocktail was the rise of bitters, from the classic standards Angostura and Peychaud’s, to small batch bitters made by individual bartenders. The book Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All pushed the fever for bitters even higher. Home “pharmacists” are experimenting, too, including a Phoenix-based engineer-turned-weekend bitters warrior, who documents his experiments on Facebook at AZ Bitters Lab.

 Media:

6. Online food magazines

Print Gourmet magazine may have kicked the bucket but it lives on (sort of) online as Gourmet Live. Other print magazines moved from paper to internet, including Culinary Thymes, while others began media life online, such as Organic Connections. We expect to see more food magazines with online only issues.

7. Culinary apps

Sure, there were culinary apps before 2011, but this year the floodgates opened as everyone got in on the “there’s an app” for that. Want to know where (and what) chefs eat? There’s an app for that. It’s called Chefs Feed. Martha Stewart’s Whole Living smoothies, Baking with Dorie Greenspan, and The Professional Chef from the Culinary Institute of America are just a few that launched this year.

8. Cookbooks

Printed cookbooks had a banner year, and two themes that seemed prolific were chefs cooking at home (Jean-George Vongerichten, Ferran Adriá, and John Besh) and bloggers-turned cookbook authors (Lisa Fain of the Homesick Texan, Matt Armendariz of Matt Bites and Jessie Oleson of CakeSpy.)

Desserts:

Photo courtesy of Our Feeding Frenzy Blog

9. Popsicles & Paletas

The Zoku pop machine hit home kitchens and entrepreneurs like Fru Fru Pops hit the farmers’ market, cooling us down in the process. Mexican popsicles (paletas) were big, too, as Chandler, AZ based Paletas Betty opened a second location in Tempe, AZ. Our Feeding Frenzy blog spent a good bit of the summer tempting us with very grown-up cocktail ice pops, ensuring everyone got sweet relief from the summer heat wave.

Other:

10. German Pub Grub

We don’t have solid data on this one, but we feel it. Maybe it’s because of the fabulous alpine cuisine at Grüner in Portland. Or maybe it’s the continuing rise in “gastropub” popularity (Meddlesome Moth in Dallas, Citizen Public House in Scottsdale). For whatever reason, we think there’s room for gastropubs who focus on updated German classics (charcuterie, terrines, potatoes, sausages, pickled vegetables, etc.)

Bonus round: Things we can’t seem to get enough of

 

Burgers

Oh, America, will you ever tire of burgers? Apparently not, especially if said burger is piled high with fried things and there’s a big honking knife stuck in it.

Southern food

Bon Appetit magazine anointed Husk, a Southern restaurant in Charleston, the best in the land. Countless cookbooks on Southern food emerged, including Basic to Brilliant by Virginia Willis. Grits, cornbread, and fried okra spread from sea to shining sea.

Small plates

Few restaurants can survive serving only small plates, but it’s rare for a modern American restaurant to not have a least a smattering of small plates. A few of those doing it well include FnB in Scottsdale, Ned Ludd in Portland, and Barley Swine in Austin.

Related:

2010 Sweet 16 Food Fads or Trends?

2009 Sweet 16 Food Fads or Trends?

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 15, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

The first time I heard about Korean black garlic was back in October of 2008, in a NYT story by Florence Fabricant, but avant garde chefs, like Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin, had already started playing with it in early 2008.

It didn’t make any trend lists that year, but by the end of 2009, it was on several “hot new food trend” lists.

The fermented garlic started turning up on more restaurant menus like Blackbird in Chicago, David Paul’s in Lahaina (Maui), wd~50 in New York throughout 2009.

And in January 2010, it landed at Crudo, in Phoenix.

Now, home cooks can buy black garlic at Whole Foods ($12.99, 5.47 oz.), from a company called — straightforward enough — Black Garlic.

What exactly is black garlic? It’s real garlic that’s been through a 3-week fermentation process, and 1-week drying process, using a variety of temperatures and humidity levels.

Is it really safe to eat? I assume so, since I’ve been snacking on the tasty orbs for the past few months.

The sticky, black cloves taste sweet, almost raisiny, with the faintest hint of garlic flavor.

You can slice or chop them to use as a garnish on any number of dishes from pasta to risotto to bruschetta.

The Black Garlic website has a handful of recipes, but if you google “black garlic recipes,” you’ll find more and more chefs and bloggers experimenting with this new “toy.”

You can make a paste by mashing the cloves with some olive oil in a mortal and pestle, and use the paste to boost the flavor of soups and sauces.

I used the paste as a spread on a turkey and brie sandwich, with thinly sliced Granny Smith apples.

So, go ahead. Splurge. A little goes a long way, and since it’s fermented, once opened, it will keep in the refrigerator for months.

Have you used black garlic in your kitchen?

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 29, 2009 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

I keep a running list of ingredients and dishes I see throughout the year. Some observations come from my travels, some from reading various food publications and some from from talking with other food writers.

I’ve whittled down a very long list to just 16.

Are these sweet 16 trends or fads? Or just temporary blips on the vast food radar screen?

Only time will tell. A fad is a fleeting thing. Trends last longer, and some eventually land in the mainstream (hello chipotle, I’m looking at you).

Without further ado, here are the things that made my Sweet 16:

1. Coconut water — It’s the new “in” drink. It has more potassium than a banana, and all the cool people are sipping it, including food writer Amanda Hesser, who once tweeted that she was sipping coconut water and eating chocolate. And coconut water is showing up as a beverage choice on menus from Portland to Austin.

2. Padron peppers — from pizzas in wine country, to canning jars in Seattle, this Spanish pepper is enticing new fans with its sweet — sometimes hot, sometimes not — flavor.

3. Crispy poached egg — It started in Europe and landed in San Francisco a few years ago. It made it to Phoenix as a signature dish at one of the best restaurants in town, noca.

4. Salted caramel — from candies to cakes to grown-up milkshakes spiked with Bourbon, we love our caramel and if it has a sprinkling of sea salt, all the better.

5. Butter lettuce — Move over Iceberg wedge, butter lettuce is the new darling. Not only are restaurants creating butter lettuce-only salads, but farmers are giving us new varieties, including red leaf butter lettuce.

6. Hibiscus — this flower has moved beyond the herbal tea category and is flavoring other drinks (like agua frescas in noted Mexican restaurants) and desserts (like panna cotta and gelatos and sorbets in non-Mexican venues).

7. Chamomile tea syrup — another flower breaking out of the tea category and moving into dessert sauces and sorbets.

8. Foie gras desserts — I’m hoping this is a fad, not a trend. This year, I saw a foie gras float (foie gras ice cream paired with root beer) and foie gras creme brulee. Ick.

9. Amarena cherries — these expensive Italian dark cherries are popping up in desserts in fancy restaurants as well as modest pizza parlors and cafes.

10. Donuts — gourmet and otherwise, the fried balls of dough are making a comeback, leaving police officers across the country scratching their heads as to why.

11. Marshmallows — who knew they were so easy to make? Not only are restaurants making their own flavors of marshmallows, but home cooks are making them, too, and food bloggers are writing about them.

12. Shiso — the Japanese herb was once relegated to just a garnish for sushi, but now it’s showing up as a garnish for salads, like the heirloom tomato salad at Zuni Cafe in San Francisco.

13. Cardamom — Long used in Indian, Scandinavian and Middle Eastern cooking, cardamom jumped the shark into chewing gum this year in Eclipse Breeze “Extotic Mint.”

14. Home canning — So many new blogs and websites dedicated to the art of home canning popped up this year, along with a few new books.

15. Staub serving ware — restaurants from high-end steak houses to cozy French Bistros moved the cast iron cooking ware from the kitchen to the table. Speaking of French Bistros…

16. French Bistros — if you don’t count the new restaurants opening under the “local, seasonal, farm-fresh” category, French Bistros would have been the number one new restaurant theme.

Now, you may be wondering why bacon isn’t on the list.

Well, that horse left the barn in 2008, and in 2009, bacon-mania hit mainstream in a big way (remember baconnaise?)

I’m sure I left out some things (this is only 16 out of a possible gazillion).

Does anything on the list surprise you? What else would you add?

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