Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | NOVEMBER 24, 2010 | DESSERTS

Have you ever noticed some bread pudding recipes ask you to press down the top (with weight, no less) so that the bread soaks up the custard before baking? Well, I like my bread to float to the top on this recipe.

That’s because it browns beautifully and crisps up nicely — which offers a wonderful crunch to contrast to the creamy custard.

(And yes, you can substitute challah for the brioche — they are basically the same egg-rich dough, with brioche using butter, and challah using oil.)

The secret to this half crisp-half soft bread pudding is to cut the bread into large hunks (seriously large) … and don’t weigh it down.

Sure, I want you to dunk the hunks of bread down into the custard to soak up the vanilla custard before baking, but don’t I don’t want you to mash the bread down.

That’s because I want you to take a bite of crisp, crunchy bread along with a bite of the soft, bread-soak custard underneath.

If that wasn’t enough, I’m calling for chopped chocolate chunks. Sure, you could use chocolate chips in a pinch, but the rustic, uneven chop here and the high quality chocolate adds so much more to the end result.

Trust me. It’s divine — especially when served with this easy, boozy, butter “scotch” sauce.

[printable recipe]

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JULY 04, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Note from Chef Gwen: Linda Avery takes us for a spin through the newest cookbook from Rick Bayless. Read on, and then head to the kitchen to make the scrumptious chocolate pecan pie bars.

Fiesta At Rick’s: Fabulous Food for Great Times with Friend

by Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless





Facts: W.W. Norton, 350 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon at $21.95)

Photos: Over 140 pics of food, people, settings, fun

Recipes: 150

Give to: Rick Bayless fans, Mexican food lovers, a host in need of a party planner

Reviewed by Linda Avery:

Top Chef Master Rick Bayless has added another cookbook to his arsenal, Fiesta At Rick’s: Fabulous Food for Great Times with Friends – just released July 5th. This is a how-to guide for the best Mexican party you’d ever want to throw.

Don’t know where to start?  Bayless suggests themes like a pozole party or a mole fiesta. He lays out “game plans” which begin about a week ahead of your party, and timelines (to make sure your plantains are perfectly ripened).

There is no disputing the fact that Rick Bayless brought Mexican food to a new level across the country over the past few decades. He has a talent for ramping up flavors with exquisite balance. I must say that this book is akin to having a Vulcan mind meld with him. He tells all.

Even the most accomplished host could pick up a pointer from the serving strategies. Decide your number of guests and choose from eight mouthwatering guacamoles like Tomato and Bacon, Mango or Toasted Pumpkin Seed (one of his suggested parties happens to be a Luxury Guacamole Bar Cocktail Party for 12).

If you don’t want to hire mariachis who might steal your show, you can rely on the playlists included for consideration – think Tito Puente, Bebel Gilberto, Lila Downs, and Buena Vista Social Club among others. And, he peppers the book with how-to guides for everything from “How to Have a Tequila Tasting” to “How to Build a Temporary Brick Fire Pit (Hornillo).”

And then there’s the food. In the words of the author “while there are dishes in this new book that don’t require a lot of time to make, a good number of them do involve forethought or dedication.”

If that’s intimidating, recruit a friend or two and cook together (probably best to have wine while cooking and save the tequila for prime time).

I don’t allow myself Mexican food very often because that “everything in moderation” rule flies out the window. This was an opportunity to let ‘er rip. Until now, flan was my go-to Mexican dessert recipe so I knew exactly what I wanted to test from this book: the chocolate pecan pie bars.

The golden rule of testing is to follow the recipe exactly, i.e., no substitutions, no halfsies. The result: this is a 5-star additively rich, delicious dessert and it is HUGE. Don’t hesitate to cut this recipe in half – I hope it freezes well.

Photo © by Paul Elledge

From Fiesta At Rick’s: Fabulous Food for Great Times with Friends by Rick Bayless

Frontera Grill’s Chocolate Pecan Pie Bars

Makes thirty-two 2-inch bars

This recipe is a bar version of the Chocolate Pecan Pie that’s been the sig­nature dessert at Frontera Grill for well over two decades. We’ve replaced that flaky crust with a sweet-salty-buttery pretzel crust that I think is perfect for these luscious bars. Come to think of it, with these bars being so gooey-rich you may want to cut the squares crosswise into triangles, so people can enjoy just a biteful at a time.

9 ounces (about 2 cups) pecan halves
One 9-ounce bag pretzel rods
1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, plus extra for buttering the pan
1/2 cup granulated sugar
8 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped into pieces not larger than 1/4 inch
3/4 cup (about 4 1/2 ounces) finely chopped Mexican chocolate (such as the widely available Ibarra brand)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
6 large eggs
1 1/2 cups firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 1/2 cups corn syrup, preferably dark (or use a mixture of corn syrup and molasses, sorghum, Steen’s cane syrup or most any of the other rich-flavored syrups)
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract, preferably Mexican vanilla
Powdered sugar, for garnish

1. Toast the pecans and prepare the crumb crust. In a 325° oven, toast the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet until noticeably darker and toasty smelling, about 10 minutes. Let the pecans cool to lukewarm (but keep the oven heated), then coarsely chop them by hand — 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces make luxurious-looking bars. Scrape into a large bowl.

2. Use a food processor to chop the pretzels into fairly fine crumbs. (You should have 2 cups of crumbs.) In a small saucepan over medium heat or in a microwave at 50% power, melt 2 sticks of the butter. Scrape into the processor, along with the 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Pulse until everything is combined.

3. Butter the bottoms and sides of two 8 x 8-inch baking pans. Cut a piece of parchment to fit the bottom of each pan, then press firmly in place. Butter the parchment paper. Divide the crumb mixture between the two pans and pat into an even layer covering the bottom completely.

4. Make the filling. To the pecans, add the two chocolates and the flour. Stir to combine, then divide evenly between the two pans. In the small saucepan or microwave at 50% power, melt the remaining 2 sticks of the butter. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the eggs, brown sugar, corn syrup or corn syrup mixture and vanilla, and beat at medium-low speed (if your mixer has a choice, use the flat beater). Slowly add the melted butter, mixing until the batter looks smooth. Divide the batter between the two pans, pouring it slowly and evenly over the surface to ensure even distribution of the chocolate and pecans through the batter.

5. Bake, cool and serve the bars. Slide the pans into the oven and bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the center is almost firm. Let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until firm for easy cutting. Use a small knife to loosen the sides, then turn out. Cut into 2-inch squares. Keep your Chocolate Pecan Pie Bars stored in the refrigerator until just before serving. Transfer to a serving platter, dust with powdered sugar, carry to your guests and await the moans of pleasure.

28
May

Sweet Spot

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 28, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Chocolate-Layer-CakeExactly one year ago, I started writing for PHOENIX Magazine.

Each month I have the privilege to describe a dessert from a local restaurant in a column called “Sweet Spot.”

(Yeah, tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it.)

I also write a “local product” column and restaurant reviews for the magazine, which I love writing, but the dessert column sends me into an ethereal, nectared orbit.

I’ve written about insanely delicious cakes (white chocolate sticky cake from Mosaic) and rustic tarts (apple pecan from Coup des Tartes), light-as-air macarons that could shame the French (Essence Bakery) and desserts that defy description (raspberry nougat box with pop rocks from Roka Akor).

Just wait until you see what’s coming up.

The reason this job makes me pinch myself is because I didn’t grow up eating dessert after every meal, although I think I would have been perfectly suited to do so.

Little-Sweet-Tooth

Little Ms. Sweet Tooth

Why? “All my tooths are sweet,” to quote tweeter @chrislee, quoting his four year-old daughter.

Let’s just say I’m making up for lost time.

No longer do I feel guilty about ordering dessert after a meal, even knowing that I probably don’t need a dessert. Seriously, who needs dessert?

Pastry chefs weren’t born out of necessity. They were born out of want. Frankly, I want to meet every pastry chef in the world, and taste their best creation.

I’m always searching for the next “to live for” dessert because, the way I see it, a girl’s best friend isn’t a diamond.

It’s sugar on a plate … and a fork. Maybe two.

EatenCake

By Gwen Ashley Walters | SEPTEMBER 17, 2008 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

I can live without dessert, but I don’t want to. It’s a bad habit to fall into–having dessert after every meal. I had broken the habit for a while, but it’s back. I’m blaming my job (reviewing restaurants) for the return of the sweet curse, but the reality is that I simply love to end a meal with a sweet bite.

Speaking of bites, why don’t more restaurants offer dessert samplers? With some desserts reaching the price of a small entree, who wants to commit that much to an unknown? What if you shell out $10 to $12 bucks and the dessert sucks?

A couple nights ago, we were dining at a locally owned steakhouse. It was a lovely meal — perfectly dressed Caesar salad spears, perfectly cooked filet (although it didn’t have much flavor on its own, the chef topped it with a kicky corn and chipotle relish), garlicky mashed potatoes, and then the dessert tray arrives.

I crack up at those trays, laden with fake or “preserved” versions of the real thing. And steakhouses are notorious for whipping up huge, sugar bombs — dark chocolate cake, ice cream pies, monster bread puddings.

But this local steakhouse smartly put together a sampler — a taste of three of their most popular desserts — bread pudding with butterscotch rum sauce, creme brulee, and Mississippi mud pie. The trio arrived in a long, rectangular tray, with the desserts in three ramekins.

There was plenty of each for two to share. None of the desserts were spectacular, but it was fun to sample three and not feel like we invested all our eggs in one basket. I wish more restaurants would go to the trouble (and it is a little more trouble) to package up dessert samplers.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JANUARY 02, 2001 | TIPS & TUTORIALS

Here’s a tip for decorating your dessert plate with this month’s featured recipe, Chocolate Volcano with Raspberry Coulis.  First, Coulis is French for puree, and it generally refers to a fruit puree, though not always.  After making the raspberry coulis, pour the sauce into a clean squeeze bottle.

Kitchen stores carry these inexpensive bottles, or some honey products come in squeeze bottles you can save for this purpose.  On a flat dessert plate, squeeze dots about the size of a dime about 1 inch apart all the way around the outer edge of the plate.

Using a toothpick or a bamboo skewer, place the tip in the center of one of the raspberry dots and keeping the tip in constant contact with the plate, drag the toothpick/skewer through all the dots (kind of like playing connect the dots).  This action creates a “tail” on each dot, connecting it to the next one.

Practice on a piece of waxed or parchment paper before doing your dessert plate.  It’s really fun and makes a beautiful plate!

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