Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 31, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Four years ago, I began writing for a new, local publication called Edible Phoenix.

Although the magazine is locally owned and published, Edible Phoenix belongs to a network of other edible publications across the country, started by Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian.

It started with one magazine in 2002, Edible Ojai, dedicated to celebrating the local bounty of the central California farm valley.

Tracey and Carole realized they had something special — and portable — on their hands, and soon developed a strategy to expand the Edible brand.

Today, there are more than 63 Edible magazines, from Seattle to South Florida.

More than 15 million people read these vibrant, Edible publications.

Now, Tracey and Carole have compiled a brand new book called Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods.

The book is divided into two parts. Part one is a collection of essays, honoring local heroes in the Edible communities. Part two is a collection of recipes, organized by season, reflecting the regional diversity of the Edible communities.

I’m so honored to be included in this very special book.

I have two essays in the book, one featuring Janos Wilder, chef owner of Janos and J Bar, and an early pioneer of the local foods movement in Tucson, Arizona, and another essay on Native Seeds/SEARCH, a nonprofit conservation organization dedicated to the preservation of the plants and seeds of the American Southwest.

I also have a recipe in the book, a pineapple gazpacho, that does indeed, taste as good as it sounds.

The book also features the Downtown Phoenix Public Market and Chef Greg LaPrad of Quiessence, a Phoenix restaurant located on a working farm, both essays written by Sharon Salomon, MS, RD.

No matter where you live in the U.S., there is probably a story in the book about local heroes near you.

Maybe it’s the story about the blueberry farmer in Tennessee, or the story about Allandale Farm, Boston’s last working farm.

Or maybe it’s the story about Sprouting Healthy Kids, a program developed by the Sustainable Food Center in Austin that’s introducing locally grown, seasonal produce to the middle-school curriculum.

This book is a love story for people who believe that eating local is vital to the sustainability of their communities.

It’s for people who want to cook with seasonal produce.

It’s for people who want to celebrate the successes and understand the challenges that all communities face as they work toward building better local food systems.

It’s a celebration of local foods and local heroes.

I hope you get a chance to read it.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 21, 2010 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Public Libraries are treasure troves of things I love.

Books… Information… Quiet space… Community… Free.

The Friends of the Scottsdale Public Library contacted me several months ago asking if I’d do a demo at the grand opening of their newest branch in North Scottsdale, the Appaloosa.

I don’t make public appearances like I used to. I review restaurants now, and while I don’t try to disguise my identity, I don’t walk in announcing myself either.

But how could I refuse? I love libraries, and a new one was opening practically in my back yard.

Then Susie Timm and Jay Pizarro from Foodies Like Us took over the planning and ramped up the Grand Opening event, smartly turning it into a fundraiser for the library.

They landed TV Food Network star Robin Miller, who happens to be a Scottsdale resident, too. I can’t wait to meet her.

Wine author Lizbeth Congiusti will also be on hand, and boy, did I ever pick out a tough assignment for her.

My demo is The Anatomy of a Great Vinaigrette — not the easiest thing to pair with wine, but Lizbeth is up for the challenge and will have some great suggestions on what to pair with vinegar based salad dressings.

I’m going to show you how to make as many different vinaigrettes as you can possibly dream up.

I’ll demo two for you, but I’ll also teach you how to make hundreds, just by varying a few key components.

So, Robin will dish on what it’s like to be a Food Network star, I’ll show you how to jazz up your summer salads, and Lizbeth with share wine pairing tips.

All three of us will sign our books at the end of the evening, and there’s a silent auction, too. I’m donating the proceeds from any books you buy to the library.

To purchase a ticket to the event (it’s only $30 in advance), visit www.foodieslikeus. com.

Hope to see you Friday, March 26th at 6:00 p.m.

10
Mar

Big News…

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 10, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

I have news… Big news… Exciting news…

The talented Linda Avery is joining me here at Pen & Fork to pen cookbook reviews.

You’ll be excited, too, once you meet her and read her clever, insightful reviews.

You see, Linda loves cookbooks. She reads them like novels. She tests recipes to see if they work.

And then she smartly summarizes her thoughts into compelling, readable reviews so that you can decide if it’s a book for you.

Linda’s first career was at Leo Burnett Worldwide, an advertising agency where she had global responsibilities as Senior Vice President in the area of compensation and benefits. After 25 years she left to pursue other interests. Food is one of her many interests. When Linda decides to follow her heart, she follows with abandon.

She signed on as a recipe tester for the renowned Leites’s Culinaria site, and within months she was promoted to tester coordinator, in charge of all Leite’s Culinaria recipe testers.

Not long after that, she bit off even more responsibility and was named food editor of the site.

The synergy between Linda and David Leite kicked off a series of innovations for the site, including the LC store, the extremely popular cookbook giveaways, and the “Best 20 of”, the annual listing of the best books of the year.

As a result, the 2007 James Beard Award for Web Site Focusing on Food, Beverage, Restaurant, or Nutrition and the 2006 James Beard Award for Best Food Web Site, were awarded to both Linda and David.

Always looking for a new project, Linda co-chaired the 2007 IACP conference Host City event in Chicago; the 2008 Dine Around evening for the American Cheese Society conference; and emceed a fund raising event for narrative food writers (The Greenbrier).

She is a board member of Les Dames d’Escoffier Chicago Chapter and is co-chairing their 2010 fundraiser Fashion Plates.

Linda has reviewed countless cookbooks, and I can’t even begin to tell you how happy I am that she’ll be reviewing cookbooks for Pen & Fork.

Not only is she a talented writer, she’s a trusted friend and colleague. I’ve known Linda a long time and her passion for food and her love of cookbooks is genuine.

Please welcome Linda and watch for her first cookbook review for Pen & Fork this coming Sunday.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 18, 2009 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Outstanding in the Field: A Farm to Table Cookbook by Jim Denevan with Marah Stets

Facts: Published 2008 by Clarkson Potter, hardcover, 256 pages, $32.50

Photos: almost every page, food and farm dinner scenes

Recipes: 110

Give to: Your farmer and/or foodie groupie friends and wealthy friends you want to convert from chain steakhouses to the joys of eating locally.

Review: If you haven’t hear about the near cult-like farm dinners popping up all over the country called Outstanding in the Field, don’t feel left out. It’s tough to score a ticket to one of the farm dinners unless you’re on their email list or otherwise connected – deeply – in the local food world where the tour happens to stop.

Thirty-seven farm dinners were held in 2008, under the Outstanding in the Field banner, including one on October 12 at Crooked Sky Farm in Glendale, AZ. (Sadly, there is no AZ stop on the 2009 schedule.)

But you can buy their new cookbook that chronicles some of the adventures of founder Chef Jim Denevan and his merry band of cooks and event planners. At $32.50 (even less on Amazon.com), the cookbook is cheaper than a ticket to a farm dinner anyway, which ranges from $180 to $220 per person (for four to six courses, all paired with wine.)

Outstanding in the Field started as one dinner at a farm in Corallitos, California in 1999 and today hosts dinners at farms from coast to coast. We give high marks to the cookbook for the simplicity of the recipes, and the occasional “if you can’t find “x” ingredient, substitute “y” and the sheer number of mouthwatering photographs.

We almost feel like guests from the pictures of the farms where the dinners took place and the warm, conversational tone the authors use to introduce the recipes and in the essays sprinkled throughout the book, like the one on the virtues of fresh, unfiltered olive oil.

As one would expect with a farm themed cookbook, the bulk of the recipes feature garden-fresh produce for salads, soups, pasta, grains and vegetable dishes. Deep-fried okra with a buttermilk-semolina crust, rainbow chard tart and baby turnip soup are just a few of the tempting sounding ones.Fish, poultry and meat get their due as well: black cod wrapped in fig leaves, grass-fed beef skirt steak, and pan seared duck breast with pomegranate sauce.

The back of the book is stuffed with all kinds of goodies: suggested menus, ingredient sources and charitable organizations that all support the “eat local” mantra. We whipped up a batch of delicious savory pecan, parmesan and thyme shortbread cookies (page 25) with no trouble thanks to very detailed directions, although ours didn’t turn out as “photogenic” and they crumbled like sand when we tried to bag them up to give as gifts. They also melted in our mouth…yum.

More info: outstandinginthefield.com is the official website, and their blog chronicles the tour – outstandingontour.blogspot.com.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | SEPTEMBER 20, 2008 | NEWS & NIBBLES

They’ll eat anything, these two. Even if it makes them sick. I’m amazed at what they’ll  put in their mouths. A rotting apple core on the side of the road. A discarded Q-Tip (eeewwwh!) And grasshoppers–fresh grasshoppers.

I guess the grasshopper delicacy shouldn’t surprise me. And for Chloe (on the right), it was an acquired taste. She first discovered grasshoppers when one jumped in front of her and her hunting instinct took over. She caught the little sucker and immediately spit it out when it kicked in her mouth.

The next time she caught one, she twitched when the grasshopper kicked, but she didn’t immediately spit it out. But eventually she did and then she just wanted to play with it, coaxing it with her nose to get it to jump again. And after a few more catches, she finally decided that the best use of her booty was not to spit it out. So she ate it…crunch, crunch, crunch.

It doesn’t surprise me because arthropods are eaten by humans in many areas of the world, although usually not raw. I have a book in my library called Unmentionable Cuisine that describes how to prepare grasshoppers (and locusts and other various insects).

One of the chefs I met while working on The Great Ranch Cookbook, handed me a copy of Unmentionable Cuisine while she prepared dinner for her guests one night. As she slowly cut asparagus on the bias, she said that she traveled everywhere with that book. In the summer, she cooked at a high end fishing lodge in Montana. In the winter, she moved to the southern hemisphere, cooking in fishing camps in New Zealand or in the Yucatan. “You never know what kind of food sources you’ll find in some remote camps, so this book comes in handy,” she said.

One thing the book did for me was to open my eyes — and mind — to the fact that one man’s disdain is another man’s delicacy. I still don’t think I approve of Chloe’s new favorite snack, but I can’t fault her for trying new things.

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