Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 20, 2009 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

Bourbon-Steak-Fries

(Image courtesy Bourbon Steak)



French fries never go out of style.

But lately, fries have made a resurgence of sorts, appearing on the menus of high dollar steakhouses, quirky neighborhood spots and upscale fast food joints, not to mention gracing the cover of Gourmet.

Some may think that the big daddy of all fries is found under the golden arches. While we’d like to poo-poo that idea, the truth is Micky D’s set the standard for hot, skinny, salty fries.

We’d rather have a hot batch of spuds from one of these five – make that six – Phoenix area restaurants.

Didn’t really want to put a chain at the top of the heap, but the fries speak for themselves and nobody does a better fry than Bourbon Steak. Oh, and they’re free – a gratis nibble before the main meal.

So, without further ado, here are five fries that are worth the caloric splurge.


(drum roll, please…)



1.Bourbon Steak. Without a doubt, the best French fries in the Valley are the trio of duck fat fried sticks from Michael Mina’s sleek steakhouse at the Scottsdale Fairmont.

Three silver cups filled with crispy spuds – one speckled with garlic and herbs, another glazed with truffle oil and a third dusted with spicy smoked paprika. The accompanying sauces – oniony ketchup, creamy truffle aioli, and smoky barbecue sauce – are just icing on the cake.

Maybe the presentation has something to do with it, but more than likely, it’s the duck fat.


2. Cafe Bink. But only because the chef cooks them not once, not twice, but THREE times. A gentle par boil first, followed by two rendezvous with the fryer. The result? Crisp on the outside, airy and tender on the inside.


3. Christopher’s Restaurant and Crush Lounge does two kinds of frites. One type is crispy matchsticks but we’re more taken with the russet and sweet potato fry medley. The truffled, spicy ketchup is a bonus.


4. Maizie’s Cafe & Bistro. This cozy uptown neighborhood bar serves French fries that, (are you sitting down?), actually taste like potatoes. Amazing, but true.


5. The Tuck Shop. Just because they’re not called French fries, doesn’t mean they’re not. Patatas bravas are fat sticks of herb-crusted taters served with garlicky aioli and a bowl of smoked paprika spiked tomato sauce – a Spanish twist worth seeking out.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 16, 2009 | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

eggtrend

Trend: a line of general direction or movement.

I can’t help but think that eggs on dinner menus is a rising trend.

The French and Spanish have served eggs for lunch and dinner for hundreds of years, so can it really be a trend if it’s been around that long?

Apparently, we are just now catching on. Eggs are peppering the menus of some of the trendiest restaurants across the country. Here’s just a sampling:

I tasted a smashing side dish at Zengo in Denver recently — green beans sauteed with soy sauce and finished with scrambled eggs.

At L20 in Chicago, braised pork belly shares the plate with an egg, and York Street in Dallas serves duck three ways, garnished with a soft poached egg.

In Scottsdale, The Mission plates up arepas (open-faced sandwiches with cornmeal patties instead of wheat bread) with an optional topping of a fried egg.

At Christopher’s, in the Biltmore Shopping Center in Phoenix, I had a lovely frissee salad topped with a gently poached egg and copious amounts of smoky bacon — a classic French bistro dish, to be sure, but all of a sudden trendy again.

Take a look at the menu of your favorite restaurant. Do you spot an egg?

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