Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JULY 08, 2008 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

©iStockphoto.com/Ivan Mateev

Fresh cherries are my favorite fruit to snack on because there is a lot of tactile mouth work involved. I love the just sweet, slightly tart taste and how my tongue turns magenta after a few bites.  I curl up on the couch with a big bowl of washed cherries, pick one up by the stem and balance it between my front teeth, closing my lips so just the stem is visible. I yank the stem off and drop it back in the bowl.

Gently biting the cherry causes it to burst. My teeth and tongue wiggle out the pit. Gracefully (or not?) I bend over the bowl to spit out the pit. Slowly and softly I chew the sweet, meaty cherry flesh. It’s much more interactive than eating, say, a grape or an apple.  My cherry eating ritual is like summer: fun, lazy, and way too brief I think, as I stare down at a bowl full of pits and stems.

They won’t be here long so enjoy them while you can. At the height of the cherry season, most of July, the prices come down and it’s the perfect time to stock up on cherries to freeze for those dreary winter days ahead.

To freeze cherries, you first need to pit them.  Remove the stems, wash the cherries, and pat dry with paper towels.  Pull on a pair of plastic kitchen gloves and grab a cherry/olive pitter.  Place the stem end of the cherry up, pointing toward the spike of the pitter.  I do this in a deep stainless steel bowl, as sometimes the pits like to shoot out and this controls where they land. Cover the pitter with one hand while you firmly squeeze the pitter with the other hand. This prevents cherry juice from splattering on you.

If you don’t have a pitter (why not?) you can use a small paring knife, but the cherries become halves instead of whole and it is much more work. Cut a circle all the way around the center of the cherry. It doesn’t matter if you cut stem to end, or around the middle. Twist the cherry and one half will contain the pit and the other will not. Place them in two separate bowls and continue cutting and twisting. Take the bowl of cherry halves with pits and use your fingers or thumb to gently nudge out the pit.

Lay the pitted cherries on a small baking sheet that will fit flat in your freezer. I first cover the pan with plastic wrap before spreading out the cherries so that I don’t have to wash it later. Place the cherries in the freezer, uncovered, for about an hour or until mostly frozen. Remove the tray from the freezer and drop the cherries into a freezer bag. Squish out all the air and seal. Write the date on the bag and store in the freezer for up to six months.

You can eat them frozen for a cool snack or throw a handful in a blender with other ingredients for a smoothie. Thaw them to use in salsas, sauces, and other dishes. The sex appeal of eating them out of hand on a hot July evening can’t be beat, but every time I pull a cherry from the freezer in January, I smile, thinking about the simple pleasure I enjoyed for a brief moment last July.

12
May

Pear Mania

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 12, 2008 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

How many pear varieties are you aware of? According to David Joachim, author of Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks, there are more than 5,000 varieties. I can think of only a handful. Did you see the movie City of Angels, with Meg Ryan and Nicolas Cage? In one scene, Nicolas asks Meg what a pear tastes like. She says “Sweet, juicy, like sugary sand.” Doesn’t that just make you want to eat a pear?

The widely available Bartlett is perfect for eating out of hand. When ripe, it’s juicy and sweet. I don’t think it holds up as well when cooked as the Anjou (also called D’Anjou), which is also good for eating raw. Bosc, tall and slender, is the prettiest pear for poaching whole. While it can be eaten raw, it stays quite firm even when ripe, and is more tart than the Bartlett and Anjou.

The Comice pear is purportedly the sweetest and juiciest pear. It’s large, plump body and lovely green skin with red blushes makes it a favorite pear for stuffing into holiday gift baskets, earning it “The Christmas Pear” title. I’m a sucker for the Seckel pear, a tiny little orb compared to the other varieties. I think it’s too firm to eat raw, but I love the spicy sweet flavor, and use it in crisps and tarts.

The Asian pear is round like an apple, and golden like the Bosc. It’s crunchy and sweet-tart. Thinly sliced, it’s great in salads, especially if the salad is sprinkled with blue cheese. I’ve brushed rings of Asian pears with a mixture of melted butter, honey and Chinese Five-Spice powder and grilled them. Served with a scoop of Ginger Caramel ice cream (a recipe in The Great Ranch Cookbook), it makes a lovely dessert after an Asian-themed dinner.

Pears are available year-round, but the “season” is late summer through winter. Fall is peak season, when you’re likely to find more varieties at the market than just the standard Bartlett. Many of our pears come from the northwest, specifically Oregon and Washington. Pears are picked before ripening, and either ripen in transit, or after you take them home. A pear is ripe when it gives a little when pressed near the stem, and the flesh is fragrant with pear aroma. After ripening, use right away, or place in the refrigerator for a few days.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MAY 02, 2008 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

David Joachim’s Brilliant Food Tips book is full of fascinating tips and tricks. Under the Pineapple entry, David talks about how to buy, store and cut pineapple. He also includes a yummy sounding pineapple and macadamia nut upside-down cake. I found these two things also under the pineapple heading:

  • Use pineapple as a meat tenderizer. The bromelain in pineapple helps tenderize meats because it breaks down protein. When making a marinade for tough cuts of meat such as flank steak, add pineapple juice.
  • Optimize your vitamin C intake. Look for the “gold” variety of pineapple. Loaded with 4 times the vitamin C of regular pineapple, this variety is exceptionally sweet, with golden-colored flesh.

I’ve always bought the gold variety because it’s juicier and not quite as acidic.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 12, 2007 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

Whole wheat flour contains more protein and more fiber than all-purpose flour.  You can substitute up to 50% of all-purpose flour with whole wheat flour without impacting the moisture content of your quick breads, muffins and pancakes.  So next time you’re making your favorite quick bread, just replace half of the all-purpose flour with half whole wheat flour for a little extra protein and fiber.

Because whole wheat flour contains more natural oils from the germ and bran of the wheat berry (both of which are removed during the processing of all-purpose flour), whole wheat flour can go rancid much quicker than all-purpose flour.  I buy small amounts of whole wheat flour and store it in the freezer.  It should keep up to a year if you store it this way.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | MARCH 08, 2007 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

I first tasted a fruit and herb flavor combination in 1998, when pastry chef Stacy McDevitt paired orange and basil in a dessert at Restaurant Hapa in Scottsdale. The talented McDevitts, unfortunately, have long left Arizona, but the memory of that flavor combination has stayed with me. Soon after and to this day, I still see fruit and herb combinations on menus all over the country.

Here are a few of my favorite herb and flavor combinations. You could experiment with your favorite recipes that use these fruits, adding some herbs for a subtle but intriguing punch. The easiest way is just to add some herbs to your batter or if you have a liquid, steep the herbs in the liquid first.

  • Lemon & Thyme
  • Pear & Rosemary
  • Orange & Tarragon
  • Watermelon & Mint
  • Blueberry & Hibiscus (dried)
  • Cherry & Sage
  • Plum & Lavender

Looking for even more combinations?  I would suggest Jerry Traunfeld’s two books, The Herbfarm Cookbook and The Herbal Kitchen. Both books have charts with all kinds of herbs and what to pair with them.

21
Feb

Tomatillos

By Gwen Ashley Walters | FEBRUARY 21, 2007 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

Tomatillos are sometimes called Mexican green tomatoes, even though they aren’t really tomatoes at all. They are in the same nightshade family as tomatoes, and gooseberries for that matter, hence the papery covering that must be removed before using. They’re sticky, too, after removing the paper husk, but the sticky stuff washes off with cold water.

Many Mexican, Latin, and Southwestern dishes use tomatillos. They can be eaten raw or cooked. Available most of the year in the Southwest and sporadically around the rest of the country. Look in Latin markets if your store doesn’t normally stock them.

Salsa Verde (green salsa) often contains tomatillos. Eaten raw, they taste tart and tangy, with a hint of apple and citrus. Cooking tomatillos mellows the tang slightly. You can boil, steam or grill tomatillos.

When buying tomatillos, look for bright green, smooth skins. I peel back the paper husk to check for firmness and color. Store them in the refrigerator in their husks until ready to use. They should keep several days. Remove the husks and wash thoroughly. Now you’re ready to chop them raw for a salsa, or cook them whole, as I write about in this month’s recipe, Roasted Tomatillo and Jalapeno Sauce.

The recipe comes from Par Fork! and is served on a breakfast egg dish of Huevos Rancheros from a resort in Tucson, but I am using the sauce for my stacked chicken enchiladas.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | FEBRUARY 12, 2007 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

All true chocolate contains chocolate liquor, a blend of chocolate solids and cocoa butter.  That is why white chocolate really isn’t chocolate at all, as it contains no chocolate solids, just cocoa butter, milk, vanilla, and sugar. If it doesn’t contain cocoa butter, it isn’t even white chocolate, just a white candy.

Cacao beans are picked, dried, roasted, and conched (crushed). The mixture is pressed or spun, separating the cocoa solids and the cocoa butter.  The two are blended back together to produce chocolate.

There are no regulations regarding chocolate labeling, which is why it is confusing, sometimes, to understand the difference between chocolate labeled “Semi-Sweet” and “Bittersweet”. Unsweetened chocolate is straight forward, as is milk chocolate, although these days, the high-end chocolatiers are starting to add more chocolate and less milk to their artisan chocolates.

In general, the higher the cocoa solids percentage, the deeper, richer the chocolate flavor.  Bittersweet should be more chocolaty than semi-sweet, with less sugar, but that isn’t always the case, and both can be used interchangeably in recipes.

Some of the highest quality chocolates include Callebaut, Valrhona, Guittard, and Scharffen Berger.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JANUARY 12, 2007 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

I couldn’t put my finger on it, but there was something different about the margaritas in Cabo. They were refreshing, with an almost mint-like after taste. I finally asked the server, who kept my pool-side afternoons delightful by bringing another margarita as soon as I finished one, (hey, they were small!) what was so special about these luscious lime libations.

She told me that the secret ingredient was Damiana liqueur, made from an herb indigenous to the Baja. I found a bottle in a store near our resort. It was in the shape of a pregnant woman (the Incan Goddess of Fertility) because Baja natives believe Damiana is a natural aphrodisiac. A couple margaritas made with Damiana is most definitely an aphrodisiac. I packed a small bottle in my suitcase, just in case I couldn’t find it back in the States.

Besides enhancing margaritas, Damiana can be used as any other liqueur. Put it in desert sauces, like caramel sauce or mango sauce, or drizzle it over ice cream. I’ve even put it in French Toast batter.

I highly recommend going to Cabo to purchase your own bottle, but if that isn’t in your travel plans, look for it at large liquor stores. I’ve found it at A. J.’s Fine Foods here in the valley. If your store doesn’t carry it, ask if they can order it for you.  Here’s a website where I also found it. Internetwines.com

By Gwen Ashley Walters | SEPTEMBER 10, 2006 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

Tip courtesy of David Joachim’s Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks (Rodale, Inc., 2001)

According to David Joachim, quinoa is “actually the fruit of an herb. It resembles tiny, ivory-colored beads. Pronounced ‘KEEN-wah,’ this ideal staple food is hardy enough to grow in rocky mountain soil, produces its own natural insect repellent, cooks up twice as fast as rice, is high in protein, and has a wonderfully nutty taste.”

Even if it is not technically a grain, it is ancient. It was a staple of the ancient Incas of South America, and continues to be an important food through South American. High in protein might be an understatement, as it contains eight essential amino acids, and a 1/2-cup serving provides 10 grams of protein.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | SEPTEMBER 02, 2005 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

Got more zucchini than you know what to do with?  Are your neighbors turning off their lights when they see you head toward their door with another basketful?  Not to worry.  Here are a few ideas to help you eat up all that zucchini.

  1. Sun Dried Tomato and Blue Cheese Stuffed Zucchini Rounds. This recipe, from my book, The Great Ranch Cookbook, is an impressive appetizer or tasty side dish.
  2. If you don’t like sun dried tomatoes and/or blue cheese, create a different stuffing to fill the zucchini rounds. Sauté some mushrooms with garlic and shallots, and mix in some Parmesan cheese, and maybe some fresh herbs.
  3. If you have my Cool Mountain Cookbook, try the gourmet Zucchini Tarts stuffed with Spaghetti Squash and Mascarpone, or the Italian Scrambled Eggs with Gorgonzola.
  4. Slice a zucchini really thin, and layer on your next sandwich. Raw zucchini adds a nice crunch and is a good source of Vitamin C, dietary fiber and Iron.
  5. If you have Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook, make the Zucchini Muffins or the French country side dish, Ratatouille.
  6. Like fried food? Who doesn’t?  Slice zucchini 1/4-inch thick, dip in a beaten egg, then dip in flour and fry in 350 degree vegetable oil, just enough to come half way up the side of the zucchini slice. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes on one side, then turn and fry on the other side until golden brown. Remove from oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot with a side of ranch dressing for dipping.
  7. Sticking with fried, grate 2 zucchini, toss with salt, pepper, 2 tablespoons flour, and an egg. Drop 1/4-cupfuls into hot oil for zucchini pancakes. Flip with a spatula to brown on both sides. Serve with a tiny dollop of sour cream.
  8. The July 2005 Pen & Fork Newsletter hides 2 zucchini in a yummy chocolate quick bread, a recipe from one of the top pastry chefs in the country, Letty Flatt of Deer Valley Resort.
  9. Even if your neighbors are up to their eyeballs in zucchini, you can still give zucchini to others. How about your hair stylist, or postman, or the guy that does your yard? Look at your schedule and see who could be your next victim, er, recipient.
  10. Still need ideas?  Don’t plant as much next year.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...