UPDATE: Who says 13 isn’t a lucky number? The random number generator spit out 13 and the 13th commenter was Krissy, who says “pulled pork is the BEST!” Congrats, Krissy, the signed copy of Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue is on its way to you!
Last month we gave you a sneak peek into Chef Bryan Dooley’s brand new cookbook featuring stories and recipes from his award-winning BBQ joint, Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue in Cave Creek, AZ.

We think you’d really like to have this book, so we bought you one. We’re thoughtful that way. And, we also had the chef sign it!

(Fess-up time — actually, we only bought one of you a copy (we’re thoughtful but we’re not rich).  However, YOU might win the book. All you have to do is leave a comment telling us what your favorite BBQ dish is.)

Maybe you like ribs. Bryan’s BBQ ribs were featured in Grub Street’s Big-City Barbecue: 101 Places to Satisfy Your Urban ‘Cue Craving.

Or maybe you love brisket or pulled pork or who knows what you like? Tell us and we’ll put your name in the drawing for the signed copy of the book. If you entry is the random number winner, we’ll mail you a copy of Bryan’s book. It’ that simple.

Fine print: Only one entry per person. Deadline to enter is Friday, January 20th, 2012, at midnight (EST). Winner will be notified via email on Saturday, January 21, 2012. USA addresses only for shipping.

Tags: BBQ beans, BBQ recipes, Bryan Dooley, Bryan's BBQ, Bryan's Black Mountain Barbecue, cookbook giveaway, recipe
Posted in Book & Product Reviews, Recipes, Side Dishes | 25 Comments »

Editor’s note: Linda Avery returns with a look at David Tanis’ second cookbook, including a simple recipe perfect for spring: asparagus-scrambled eggs. Take a look for yourself.

The Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys
by David Tanis
Photos by Christopher Hirsheimer
Facts: Artisan, 344 pages, $35.00  (or $19.02 at Amazon)
Photos: 115
Recipes: Hundreds
Give to: Chez Panisse fans, avid home cooks, Slow Food members

The Heart of the Artichoke has been nominated for 2011 James Beard award in the category of “general cookbook.” The book will be competing against two strong contenders: Amanda Hesser’s The Essential New York Times Cook Book: Classic Recipes for a New Century (reviewed here in December); and Radically Simple: Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease by Rozanne Gold. (Note to self: find Radically Simple).

David Tanis, Chez Panisse’ head chef for six months a year, penned his second book “Artichoke” following the 2008 very popular and successful book A Platter of Figs. Don’t be mistaken and think the new effort is about cooking artichokes. There are only two simple recipes for this prickly thistle (yes, not a vegetable — it’s a flower) included in the book but the metaphor is poetic: “The artichoke is ripe with metaphor and parable possibilities. Getting past the thorns to the sweet center… Not at all like reaching up and harvesting a sweet peach, eating an artichoke requires a bit of work.”

Surprisingly, most of his recipes require just a little bit of work or planning – there aren’t columns of ingredients or special equipment necessary, just good home cooking. The yield of most recipes is for 4 to 6 people though his last chapter of festive occasion menus are for 12-20 and is dubbed “Simple Feasts for a Long Table”.

Perhaps he was in his home kitchen reflecting on his past when he jotted notes like Pasta for One, Eating Oatmeal or Hooray for Ziplock Bags. The recipes’ headnotes are wonderfully personal and help us know this accomplished but seemingly down-to-earth man who spends the time he’s not working at Chez Panisse in Paris hosting dinners and otherwise enjoying life.

By the time I got my hands on this book wild mushroom season was over but Tanis’ recipe called Wild Mushroom Ragout with Ziti continues to call to me – I’ll be patient and look forward to trying it in 6 months or so.

In the meantime, I thought I’d try a dish more appropriate for spring: Asparagus-Scrambled Eggs. Tanis tells us that he found the dish in Spain.

I grew up in an Italian-American household, and when my mother made asparagus and eggs I’d whine “you ruined it, ick, why not just eggs?” I didn’t mind potatoes and eggs or tomatoes and eggs, it was just the green stuff that was off-putting. Fortunately, my palate matured as did my appreciation for what I thought of as “old country” recipes. In our speedy-global-travel-and-internet-easy-access world, these simple recipes have now become everyday foods.

We had this dish on meatless-Fridays, but Tanis uses it in a menu with spring lamb, mashed potatoes, dandelion salad and strawberries for dessert — sounds as colorful as it would be delicious.

DAVID TANIS’ ASPARAGUS-SCRAMBLED EGGS

The French often begin a meal with soft scrambled eggs, oeufs brouilles. (In its ultimate rendition, the eggs are scrambled with black truffles.) But I actually discovered this dish in Spain, where it was made with wild asparagus. I love the combination of the bite of asparagus with the soft egg. Use skinny asparagus, or wild if you can find them. Cook this just before you sit down to eat: it’ll be ready in minutes.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
2 pounds asparagus
4 tablespoons butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
9 eggs, beaten
Several springs of mint and basil, leaves chopped

Method
1. Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus. Cut the stalks into 1-inch lengths; if your asparagus are thick, halve the stalks lengthwise before cutting them. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the asparagus and chopped garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just done, about 2 minutes.

2. Remove the asparagus from the skillet and set aside. Heat the remaining butter in the same pan. Season the eggs with salt and pepper and add them to the pan. Stir gently until the eggs are barely set.

3. Fold in the asparagus, then spoon onto a warmed platter. Scatter chopped mint and basil on top.

Tags: asparagus, cookbook review, David Tanis, Heart of the Artichoke, Linda Avery, recipe, scrambled eggs
Posted in Book & Product Reviews, Recipes, Side Dishes | No Comments »

Two different presentations — same ingredients. That’s what you get with my roasted rutabaga recipe with fresh sage and Medjool dates.

Last week I was staring at some rutabagas, but figured they were just barely above Brussels sprouts on the vegetable pecking order — in other words, I didn’t think I’d care for them.

Fortunately my Facebook friends came to rutabaga’s rescue, suggesting every thing from a plain butter/salt/pepper mash, to adding a vanilla bean, to loading up a spicy curry or beef stew with them.

In the end I roasted them in the oven with a sweet onion and whole cloves of garlic, drizzled with olive oil, of course.

My dilemma was what to do next? I have to admit that sticking a fork in them and calling it a day was tempting — and tasty, too.

But you know me — can’t leave well enough alone — especially when my garden’s sage and McClendon’s Select Medjool dates were an option. And I didn’t want to add cream or butter, not that there’s anything wrong with that.

So I made a “pistou” of sage, dates and roasted garlic. Pistou is a French olive oil sauce similar to pesto.

My version isn’t a true pistou, which is basil, garlic and olive oil muddled together to top a rustic vegetable soup, but this is my recipe so I can call it what I want — a sage date pistou.

I stirred some of the pistou into mashed rutabagas, making the naturally sweet vegetable a tad more sweet.

(You can spoon the remaining pistou over goat cheese for an impromptu snack, served with a fruity rosé, perhaps.)

Mashing the roasted rutabaga was a little more trouble than serving them cubed — and making the pistou is even more effort, but it is so darn delicious.

I did get the same sweet, earthy taste from the rutabaga cubes topped with sliced sage and chopped dates, so that’s the way to go if you’re pressed for time.

The printable recipe below gives instructions for roasting rutabagas, and then details the easy route (just garnishing with chopped dates and sage) and the not-as-easy route (mashed with pistou).

Either way — cubed and roasted, or roasted and mashed — it’s a delicious seasonal side dish, perfect to pair with roast chicken or pork.

And now I have a whole new appreciation for this winter root vegetable (also called a swede or yellow turnip).

Rutabagas just moved up a couple of notches on the vegetable pecking order. (Sorry Brussels sprouts — your still stuck at the bottom.)

(printable recipe)

What do you think about rutabagas?

Tags: dates, McClendon's Select, pistou, recipe, roasted rutabaga, rutabaga, sage, sage date pistou
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes | 6 Comments »

I once said spaghetti squash was the most underrated yellow vegetable. I can’t think of another yellow vegetable that deserves more love. Can you?

Yes, summer squash, but isn’t it an underrated yellow vegetable that deserves to be underrated?

Among the winter squashes, spaghetti squash is one of the easier ones to work with and its mild, crunchy flesh is a blank canvas — just waiting to soak up any flavor you throw at it.

In my Cool Mountain Cookbook, spaghetti squash gets a touch of sweetness, tossed with brown sugar and hazelnut liqueur.

But today, savory strikes my fancy, with basil and fresh, local goat cheese from Crow’s Dairy.

Just roast the squash and then saute it briefly with garlic, herbs and goat cheese for a cozy, warm mid-week meal.

I love how the flesh shreds into spaghetti-like strands, tender but still full of delicate crunch.

While the squash is roasting, you can mince the garlic and chiffonade the basil.

Or, use any herbs you like. Spaghetti squash takes well to any kind of herb, especially basil, thyme, rosemary and sage.

Since mincing garlic and slicing basil doesn’t take long, you could whip up a marinara sauce and saute some chard to make it a more substantial meal.

Or, you could saute some mushrooms and scallions while you wait for the squash to finish roasting. You have about 30 minutes of down time between when the squash goes in the oven and when it’s ready for the quick saute with garlic and herbs.

After the mushrooms are tender, deglaze the pan with a little wine if you like.

I, not surprisingly, just splash in a little rosé from the glass I’m drinking while cooking.

Once the squash comes out of the oven, let it cool a bit before scraping out the flesh.

Then just heat a little olive oil in a pan and saute the flesh with the garlic, herbs and goat cheese.

Season with salt and pepper and you’re done.

It takes all of 45 minutes from start to finish.

It’s really that simple, and it’s so delicious.

I’ve topped mine with toasted pine nuts, too.

Do you have a favorite recipe for spaghetti squash?

[printable recipe]

Tags: Crow's Dairy, goat cheese, herbs, pine nuts, recipe, spaghetti squash, vegetarian
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes, Vegetarian | 6 Comments »

Okra — like Brussels sprouts — is one of those love-it-or-hate-it vegetables. There isn’t much wiggle room in between.

I love okra, but not unconditionally. It must be fried. What I really like — more than the okra itself — is the crunch.

But let’s just say for argument’s sake, I want crunchy okra but I don’t want the extra calories from frying.

What if we could get the crunch without the fat? And, if in the process we mitigate the slime factor? Even better.

We can do all three. All we need is a a sharp knife, a breading station and a very hot oven.

Recently, I tasted ethereal fried okra topped with a sous vide duck egg at Cafe Bink.

I loved how they split the okra in half lengthwise, instead of crosswise into circles.

But the okra planks were still fried. Gloriously fried — and unfortunately, gloriously full of extra calories.

So I set about trying to recreate the crunchy spears without frying.

(A side note: wondering why on earth I’m writing about okra in November? Our farmers markets have been flooded with okra in the past couple of weeks and I’ve never been one to look a gift horse in the mouth — if it’s there, I’m buying.)

I sliced the okra in half lengthwise. Then I set up a breading station, first dusting the slimy okra in flour, which helps make the egg batter stick, which in turn helps the breading stick.

Flour + egg wash + breading = crunch.

Southern fried okra is made with cornmeal. I wanted some of that corn flavor, but since I was going for maximum crunch, I also used panko.

For extra flavor, I tossed in Jamaican jerk seasoning along with the cornmeal and the panko.

Next time, I might add ground pecans into the breading mix instead of the jerk seasoning. I’m reckless that way.

Next, I set the breaded okra on a rack set in a baking sheet, which helps the hot air circulate and keeps the okra from getting soggy on the bottom.

Pop the sheet into a very hot oven — 500 degrees F, and 13 to 15 minutes later, the okra is crisp and golden brown.

Now, what to do with this extra crunchy okra without the extra fat?

Serve it as a side dish to grilled chicken or pork chops. Or serve it as an appetizer with tomato jam.

If you want to make a light dinner, say for Meatless Monday, serve the okra fries with a salad and a poached or fried egg, like I did last Monday. (I took the picture below with my phone camera.)

The red tomato drizzle is a simple reduction of some overripe tomatoes. I grated the tomatoes (tossing the skins, and straining the pulp to get rid of the seeds) and cooked the puree until it was reduced by half.

Then I just seasoned the sauce with salt, and a touch of chile garlic paste for spice.

And there you have it:

Oven baked okra fries full of crunch, but not full of fat.

What do you think?

printable recipe

Tags: jerk seasoning, jerk spiced okra fries, okra, okra fries, oven baked okra
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes, Vegetarian | 6 Comments »

Comfort food. It means different things to different people.

I have a friend who thinks of fried chicken as comfort food. To be completely honest, she thinks of fried chicken, period. In her world, fried chicken is its own food group on the pyramid.

For me, macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food. Like most people, I grew up on the blue box of Kraft mac and cheese.

I’m all grown up now, and I want a better mac and cheese.

I found one at ZOOM in Park City, Utah.

It isn’t so gourmet that it loses the homey comfort of pasta bathed in cheese, but it’s gussied up enough to make the Kraft mac and cheese seem like child’s play.

I love the fat, ribbed shells, the gooey, herb-flecked cheese sauce, and the crunch from toasted bread crumbs.

I even found the recipe in a cookbook I bought. The book is called Park City Cooks: An Eclectic Collection of Park City Recipes.

All the proceeds from the cookbook go to The Peace House, a non-profit organization that provides education, shelter and support services to women who are victims of domestic violence.

The recipes are from members of the Park City community, and in the back of the book, there are a few recipes from the local restaurants, including this recipe from ZOOM.

ZOOM is owned by The Sundance Resort (Robert Redford’s remarkable property about 35 miles from Park City).

As I licked the plate clean, I thought to myself “I’d love to have that recipe.” And lo and behold, it appeared. I love when that happens.

Now you can have it, too.

ZOOM White Cheddar Mac & Cheese

from Park City Cooks

12 Servings

Ingredients
1-1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs from crustless French bread
3/4 cup freshly grated Asiago cheese
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
8 tablespoons butter, divided
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
6 cups whole milk
1-1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 cups grated white cheddar cheese (about 1 pound)
1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 pound macaroni

Method
1. Mix the breadcrumbs, Asiago and paprika in a medium bowl.

2. Melt 6 tablespoons of butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir for three minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk, then the mustard and pepper.

3. Cook until thickened, stirring often, about 1o minutes. Stir in the cheddar and parsley.
(The topping and the sauce can be made 1 day ahead, stored separately. Cool the sauce slightly, then cover and refrigerate. Refrigerate the topping, too. Re-warm the sauce, stirring frequently and thinning with more milk if necessary before proceeding.)

4. Heat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 15″ X 10″ X 2″ glass baking dish.

5. Cook the macaroni in a pot of boiling salted water until just tender, but firm to the bite, stirring occasionally. Drain the macaroni well.

6. Return the macaroni to the drained pot; stir in the sauce. Season to taste with salt.

7. Spread the mixture in the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with the bread crumb topping. Dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter.

8. Bake until the cheese is bubbling and the crumbs are brown, about 40-45 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.

ZOOM
Park City, Utah

Where to buy the Park City Cooks cookbook:
La Niche
(435) 649-2372

Tags: comfort food, Mac and Cheese, Park City, Zoom Restaurant
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes, Travel Eats | 4 Comments »

From The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century
By Amanda Hesser

Torta di Spinaci

This is a great Sunday dinner dish. Elegant it’s not, but not everything needs to be. There is one detail that will make or break the recipe: you must squeeze every last drop of liquid from the cooked spinach before chopping it, or you’ll end up with a soggy torta. So, just when you think you’ve extracted the last molecule of water, squeeze it some more.

Serves 8 to 10

Ingredients
For the Pastry
3 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 large egg yolk
Approximately 3 tablespoons water

For the Filling
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
1 3/4 pounds fresh spinach, trimmed and washed well, or two 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach
Three 1-inch-thick smoked pork chops or pork loin (about 1 pound), any fat and bones removed and meat diced, or 1/2 pound bacon, diced
1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 5 ounces)
1 cup (8 ounces) ricotta cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 large egg white, lightly beaten

Method
Make the pastry
1. Place the flour, salt, and butter in a bowl. With a pastry blender, 2 knives, or your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal.

2. Mix the egg yolk with 3 tablespoons water and sprinkle over the mixture. Stir with a fork, adding only enough extra water to make a dough that just clings together. Divide the dough in half and form into 2 disks. Wrap each one in wax paper and chill briefly.

Prepare the filling
1. Heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions until tender but not browned. Set aside.

2. If using fresh spinach, place the washed spinach leaves, with just the water that clings, in a large saucepan, cover tightly, and cook until the leaves wilt. Drain well and let cool enough to touch. In batches, gather the leaves in your palm and press out all the liquid by squeezing as firmly as possible. Chop the spinach. Or, if using frozen spinach, cook according to the package directions; drain well, cool, and squeeze dry.

3. Combine the chopped spinach and onions in a bowl and let cool completely, then add the diced smoked pork, Parmesan cheese, ricotta, salt and pepper to taste, and lightly beaten eggs.

Assemble the torta
1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Roll out half the pastry on a lightly floured work surface into 12-inch circle and line a 10-inch pie plate with it. Brush the bottom and sides of the shell with the lightly beaten egg white. Pour in the filling.

2. Roll out the remaining pastry and cover the filling. Trim, seal, and crimp the edges. Make a steam hole and if you’re up for it place leaves, cut from the pastry scraps, around the hole (not over it).

3. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and done. Let stand for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting.

Cooking Notes
The torta can be baked early in the day and reheated in a 375°F oven. Cover loosely with foil to prevent overbrowning.
After the torta has cooled, if you wrap it well in aluminum foil, it will keep in the freezer for up to 2 months. Allow to thaw at room temperature for 3 hours and then let it finish thawing and reheat in a 375°F oven for about 1 hour.

March 19, 1972: “AN ELEGANT EASTER PIE,” by Jean Hewitt

Recipe © The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century by Amanda Hesser

Tags: Amanda Hesser, recipe, spinach tart, The Essential New York Times Cookbook, torta di spinaci
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes | No Comments »

Okra is a polarizing vegetable. Blame it on the slime.

Okra (which likely originated in Africa) contains mucilage, a sticky substance that turns to slime when okra is stewed or boiled.

Gumbo wouldn’t be gumbo without the thickening properties (and flavor) of okra and filé powder (the ground root of sassafras).

And while I love gumbo as much as the next person, I really can’t sink my teeth into a plate of stewed okra.

But fried okra? Now that’s a different story. Somehow, frying okra removes the slimy goo, or at least puts it in the background — where it belongs.

What remains is the green taste of the okra, delivered with a delicious crunch.

Why am I writing about how to fry okra?

Because it’s so easy: slice, toss, fry.

And because I can’t get past the slimy texture otherwise, and this okra from Seacat Gardens looked too fresh to pass up.

Seeing how I never leave well enough alone, I rummaged through the pantry looking for something to jazz up the okra.

I came across a za’atar spice blend I bought from Flavorbank, a spice company based in Tucson, Arizona. It’s used in both North African and Middle Eastern cuisine.

Za’atar is a mixture of dried thyme, oregano, sumac, and sesame seeds, and has a green, earthy flavor, along with a citrus note from the sumac — perfect to enhance the green taste of okra.

A pinch or two of cayenne is there just to liven things up.

Because of the sticky nature of okra when sliced, it doesn’t need a batter, although if you’re so inclined, you could dunk the sliced okra in mixture of egg beaten with a splash of milk before tossing in the spiced cornmeal.

The batter would even further disguise the grassy taste of the okra, but I like that herbal taste.

Fry the okra in peanut oil for even more flavor. The oil must be hot before you add the okra, or the okra will just absorb the oil and taste greasy.

Once the oil is hot, it only takes about 5 minutes before the okra turns golden brown. Like more crunch? Let it go for a minute or two longer before removing to drain on paper towels.

And there you have it: how to fry okra.

Slice… toss…  fry…

Okra doesn’t have to be polarizing — it just has to be fried.

Za’atar Spiced Fried Okra

(printable recipe)

Serves 6

Ingredients
1-1/2 pounds okra
1 cup yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons za’atar spice blend*
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Peanut (or vegetable) oil for frying

Method
1. Wash and pat dry okra pods. Slice crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds. Set aside.

2. Toss cornmeal with the za’atar, salt, cayenne and black pepper in a medium bowl.

3. Toss the okra in the cornmeal mixture until every slice is coated.

4. Heat enough oil to come up about 1/4-inch in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering (but not smoking), it’s ready.

5. Shake off excess cornmeal from okra before frying.

6. Fry okra in batches, careful to not overcrowd the pan. Fry until golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Don’t stir the first few minutes, but once the okra starts to brown, stir to promote even browning.

7. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain.

*za’atar is a blend of dried thyme, dried oregano, sumac and sesame seeds. If you do not have za’atar, you could substitute an equal amount of another herb blend, such as Italian herbs or herbs de Provence.

Tags: Flavorbank, fried okra, how to fry okra, okra, za'atar spice, za'atar spiced fried okra
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes, Vegetarian | 6 Comments »

The asparagus in our Arizona grocery stores is still coming from Mexico, but in a month or so, we’ll have asparagus from California and our own local farms, too.

My favorite preparation is grilled asparagus, so I thought I’d revisit this post I did last April on how to grill asparagus. Because it’s really simple to do, and because while it’s only the beginning of March, it’s never too early to start thinking about Spring.

http://penandfork.com/2009/04/13/grilled-asparagus/

What’s your favorite asparagus recipe?

Tags: asparagus, grilled asparagus, grilling, lemon
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes | 2 Comments »

June Taylor products are hot, hot, hot. Sizzling hot.

Seems everywhere I turn, I’m seeing them in a magazine, on a newsflash, or on my doorstep.

I can explain that last one. I ordered three of JT’s products because, as it has been well documented here and there, I can’t seem to stay away from gourmet items.

I ordered Quince Butter ($14), Candied Bergamot Peel ($12) and Rose Geranium Syrup ($18) after spotting June Taylor’s products in the Food 52 Shop (both a hallowed and dangerous place for people like me.)

I wanted to make something using all three products, but after tasting each of them, I realized that was too ambitious, even for me.

Sometimes chefs have the tendency to wrap too many flavors together, when really, less is more.

So I settled on the quince butter and the bergamot, combined with sweet potatoes. I’ll save the syrup for another post. It needs something simple to let its unique flavor shine through.

Roasting sweet potatoes is one of the easiest preparations, so that’s where I started. I wanted to make a sauce from the quince butter and then top the mixture with the bergamot peel.

Pretty straightforward. Simply peel the sweet potatoes, and cut them into 1-inch rounds.

Layer them in a buttered baking dish, preferably one that can go from oven to table, like this pretty Emile Henry.

The bergamot orange (which is yellow in color, not orange) is small, very acidic, and used mainly for its essential oil (in the peel) in everything from perfume to confections to tea — Earl Grey tea, specifically.

I steeped 1 bag of Earl Grey in a small amount of water, making a strong tea, in essence, to enhance the sauce, thinking it would tie the quince butter and bergamot peel topping together.

The tea went into a small saucepan with the quince butter and some real butter. There is no butter in fruit butters coming from a jar. They’re called “butter” because the fruit is cooked down to a thick puree that can be spread, like soft butter.

Wanting to keep the flavors from becoming too muddled, I resisted the temptation to throw in a bunch of spices, although you certainly could. You could throw in some booze, too, and normally, I would have, but it was early and I wasn’t thinking straight, so I didn’t.

I did throw in a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg because, well, I couldn’t resist the urge completely.

The quince butter, tea and real butter boil together just long enough to thicken and meld together. I really should have added some brandy or Grand Marnier; what was I thinking? Instead, I tarted it up with a splash of apple cider vinegar.

The thickened fruit butter mixture is spread over the sweet potatoes and then the pan goes into the oven.

You should know that the sauce is sparten on purpose. You could increase the quantities a bit if you want lots of sauce after roasting, but again, I was showing restraint, still wanting the flavor of the sweet potatoes to come through.

I promise this need for restraint will pass.

While the mixture is bubbling away in the oven, I chopped the bergamot peel — finely — with a knife. I tried to use my mini-food processor, but I was only successful in knocking off the sugar coating. The peel resisted the blade. Guess I wasn’t the only one resisting today.

A chef’s knife and a little elbow grease soon made mincemeat out of the tough, fragrant peel.

To add a bit of texture, I chopped some toasted pecans to sprinkle on top along with the chopped bergamot.

Now the dish can go to the table, in its pretty baking dish, for everyone to ooh and ahh over. Visually appealing, yes, but for me, it’s the taste that deserves cooing.

From the earthy sweet potatoes to the tart quince butter to the unique taste of the bergamot, this dish brings a little sophistication and a lot of complex flavors from just a few, simple, expensive, gourmet products.

But you’re worth it, aren’t you?

Roasted Sweet Potatoes
with Quince Butter and Bergamot Peel

Serves 4 or 5

Ingredients
1 Earl Grey tea bag
1/3 cup boiling water

2/3 cup June Taylor Quince Butter
1 tablespoon butter (+ 1 teaspoon for buttering pan)
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Pinch of nutmeg

2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/3 cup chopped toasted pecans
2 tablespoons finely chopped bergamot peel

Method
1. Heat the oven to 375º F.

2. Steep the Earl Grey tea in the 1/3 cup boiling water and set aside for 5 minutes. Discard tea bag and pour tea into a small saucepan with the quince butter, real butter, vinegar and pinch of nutmeg. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

3. Butter a large baking dish with a teaspoon of softened butter. Lay the sweet potatoes in a single layer, fitting in as many rounds as you can.

4. Pour the reduced quince butter mixture over the top and spread evenly with a spatula. Cover with foil and place in the oven. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the potatoes are almost but not quite fork tender. Remove the foil and continue roasting for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork tender.

5. Remove from oven and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Now sprinkle with pecans and bergamot peel and serve.

NOTE: Let’s just say, for example, you don’t have June Taylor’s products on hand, but you like the idea of this dish. You can substitute the quince butter with apple butter, and the candied bergamot peel with regular candied orange peel.

Tags: candied bergamot peel, Food 52, June Taylor, quince butter, roasted sweet potatoes, sweet potatoes
Posted in Recipes, Side Dishes, Vegetarian | 4 Comments »

The Great Ranch Cookbook

Spirited Recipes & Rhetoric from America's Best Guest Ranches

Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook

Culinary Expedition Through World Class Golf Resort Kitchens

The Cool Mountain Cookbook

A Gourmet Guide to Winter Retreats