Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JANUARY 22, 2012 | BEVERAGES

Funny thing, I was hunting for truffle oil, not pepper sauces.

But four pepper sauces were tucked in my box of truffle oil. They were a gift from the small business that makes both truffle oil (from Oregon white truffles) and now pepper sauces.

I contacted the company  – Oregon Truffle Oil, Inc. — and explained that I don’t ask for or generally accept free product. (In the interest of full disclosure, most, but not all, of the cookbooks Linda Avery reviews for Pen & Fork are sent to her from publishers.) I asked the company for a bill for the sauces I didn’t order. They countered with, how about we send you an invoice for the extra shipping? Fine.

So, these sauces were free (save the extra $5 shipping plus the original $51 order I placed for their truffle oils — more on those another time).

All four sauces ($8 each, or $25 for all four) are wheat free and contain no preservatives. The first ingredient is Pinot Noir wine, hence the name Pinot & ____. It makes sense. The company is based in Willamette Valley, Oregon, arguably home of the best American Pinot Noirs.

In fact, all four have a winey nose when you take a sniff. The wine taste, however, is lost in a myriad of other flavors, but it seems to be a good base for a sauce, just as tomato concentrate is.

All four sauces contain gluten-free soy sauce, and cornstarch as a thickener. From there, it’s lemon juice and/or distilled vinegar for tartness, some brown sugar to cut the acid, and salt and spices.

Sodium content ranges from 170 mg (7%) to 370 mg (15%) per tablespoon, which seems low to normal for sauces, but all taste salty straight from the bottle. Could be because soy sauce is the second ingredient and table salt is also listed in the ingredient list. For comparison, my beloved A-1 sauce has 280 mg (12%) of sodium per tablespoon. Once I cooked with the Pinot sauces, however, the saltiness mellowed, although it did impact how much additional salt I used.

The most intriguing of the bunch is the Pinot Szechuan. It has Chinese 5-Spice notes and a hefty heat kick. According to the ingredient list, it gets its kick from habanero chile, not Sichuan peppercorns (perhaps Sichuan peppercorns are included in the generic “spices” ingredient). No matter, it’s still an intriguing sauce.

The chipotle flavored sauce is appropriately smoky, and the habanero is appropriately fruity hot — make that HOT, but in a pleasant lip-numbing way – (it has a touch of orange peel, and even chipotle to add some smokiness). In fact, the habanero might be my favorite, and I’ll try it out in creamy coleslaw and even on a baked potato. (Why not? I have been known to load up a baked potato with A-1 sauce instead of butter. Try it.)

I used the Pinot & Pepper Sauce to make the Bloody Jack, a recipe included with the sauces. It wasn’t the best bloody Mary I’ve ever tasted (that would be this one) but then again, I never claimed to be a cocktail maven (smoothie savant, yes, cocktail savant, no).

Still, it was a fine bloody Mary (I garnished it with feta stuffed olives from Queen Creek Olive Mill) and it made reading the local newspaper all the more fun.

CZAR’S Bloody Jack

(adapted from CZAR’s Fine Foods)

Makes 1 small cocktail

Ingredients:

3 ounces tomato juice (I used low-sodium V-8)
1-1/2 ounces vodka
1 ounce Pinot-Pepper Sauce
1/8 teaspoon celery salt
1/2 ounce lemon juice (about 1/4 of a medium lemon)

Method:

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker (without ice). Shake and strain mixture over a small cocktail glass filled with ice. Garnish with celery stick, cucumber spear or olives.

 

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 22, 2011 | BEVERAGES

Sometimes the best laid plans get up and walk away — and I’m not talking about when these Pernod-soaked figs self-flambéed as I turned off the heat. (Note to self: use a taller pan next time.)

I’m talking about my BIG plans for my 200th gourmet smoothie — the one where I’d finally stop the smoothie madness.

If you follow me on Twitter or Facebook, you know I’ve got a little love affair going on with smoothies.

When I started the Gourmet Smoothie Project in the summer of 2010, I didn’t have a plan.

It was hot… I was thirsty… and there was a gorgeous melon on my counter… so I made a Melon + Peach + Chai smoothie.

The next day, I made another one: Strawberry + Basil + Lime.

Before I knew it, I’d made 199 gourmet smoothies.

(You can see a good chunk of them in my Flickr Smoothie Set.)

I had big plans for a fantastic, final smoothie. Number 200.

It was going to be epic.

It was going to be boozy. (Why not? It’s the holidays.)

To make my gourmet smoothies, I pilfer my packed pantry, experimenting with ingredients such as pink peppercorns, lavender buds, juniper berries, and rose water.

I study my chef comrades, stealing their ideas, such as a Honeydew + Hatch Green Chile + Lime smoothie, based on a chilled soup I slurped at Chef Joshua Hebert’s Posh restaurant in Scottsdale.

Recently, had a dessert with Sambuca macerated figs and a bit of orange, draped over a ricotta cheesecake. The cheesecake was so-so, but the figs were outrageous. I didn’t have Sambuca, but I had Pernod, the French substitute for absinthe that tastes of licorice.

Perfect! So I set about to make (and document) my final smoothie. But I forgot the crucial element one should consider in a final anything.

Does it blow me away and scream “That’s IT!” ?

This one? Eh, not so much. Oh, don’t get me wrong, it’s very tasty.

Thick and boozy, figgy and orangey.

On a scale of 1 to 10, it’s a solid 8.

In my head, though, this one was a 10. It sounded like a 10, but as it turns out, it tastes like an 8.

There’s nothing wrong with that. I have had plenty of 8′s I’ve been thrilled with and still make because they are really delicious, for example, the Pineapple + Black Pepper + Saffron and the Papaya + Coconut + Curry.

But I can’t quit on an 8.

So, I’ve decided this will not be my last smoothie. No way. Ain’t gonna happen.

Smoothie # 200: Fig + Pernod + Orange

Here it is — #200 — a very good smoothie — just not the final one.

Makes 2-1/2 cups: enough for 2 large or 4 small servings

Ingredients:
2-1/2 ounces (1/2 cup) dried Mission figs, stems removed and halved
1/3 cup Pernod

Method:
Bring figs and Pernod to a vigorous simmer in a tall saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer 1 minute and then turn off the heat. Set aside to cool. Figs will soak up some of the liquor, but not all of it. Chill figs (with liquid) until ready to use.

Ingredients:
1-1/4 cups low fat vanilla yogurt
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
1/2 cup orange juice
Figs from above (with liquid)
Leaves from 2 (4-inch) sprigs of tarragon
1 tablespoon Pernod

Method:
Place all ingredients (in the order listed) and puree until smooth. Serve immediately.

Note: If you substitute Sambuca for the Pernod, use slightly less (1/4 cup with the figs, and 1 teaspoon at the end), as it is a much stronger tasting licorice flavor and much sweeter liquor than Pernod.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 14, 2011 | BEVERAGES

I was shaken, like countless others this week, by the sudden, tragic loss of a young husband who left behind a young wife and two small children.

The food community has come to Jennifer Perllio’s rescue through words and pictures and pie.

Lots of pie. Pie for Mikey.

Just look at the response to Jennifer’s request to make a peanut butter pie for Mikey on foodgawker, TasteSpotting and The Food Network. And don’t miss this touching video by Todd & Diane from White on Rice Couple.

The food community has wrapped their collective arms around one of their own and shown an extraordinary level of compassion.

Food is love. It’s meant for sharing, for healing and for showing how much we care. It’s for nourishing the soul as much as it is for nourishing the body.

When it comes to matters of the heart, I am extremely private. I am not a group-hug-kind-of-girl. I can count my close friends on one hand, and one of those is my loving husband of 22 years.

But today, Jennifer doesn’t have her husband of 16 years. The only thing I can do, for now, is tell her that I care, that I’m thinking of her, and tell her that I made this smoothie for her … and for him.

And then I’ll hug my husband, as she asked, “like there’s no tomorrow.”

Peanut Butter & Chocolate Smoothie

For Jennifer, in memory of Mikey, with love

Ingredients:

Peanut Butter Layer:
1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt
2 tablespoons peanut butter
1 tablespoon honey
Chocolate Layer:
1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt
1 tablespoon cocoa
Garnish:
1 teaspoon finely chopped peanuts
1 teaspoon finely chopped semisweet chocolate

Method:

1. Place 1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt, peanut butter and honey in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour in a glass.
2. Place 1/2 cup low fat yogurt and cocoa in the blender and blend until smooth. Pour chocolate layer over the peanut butter layer.
3. Sprinkle top of smoothie with peanuts and chocolate.

Serves 1

 

 

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 08, 2011 | BEVERAGES

Seacat Gardens Charentais

Summer in the desert is not for the faint of heart.

Temperatures typically stay north of triple digits from early June through mid-September.

One way to weather the eternal inferno is to slice open a cool, sweet melon — undeniably one of summer’s greatest gifts.

Last summer I discovered Charentais, a French melon grown by Phoenix grower Carl Seacat of Seacat Gardens.

By mid-June, continuing through July and hopefully August, too, Seacat will have these beautiful, honeyed melons at the Scottsdale Stadium Summer Market (that is if restaurant chefs don’t gobble them all up first).

Here’s the original post and a recipe for a Charentais Frappé (the smoothie’s haut monde cousin). Find out what Seacat told me that contradicted everything I knew about cantaloupes.

In West Texas, July brought a windfall of Pecos cantaloupes, surely the sweetest melons I’ve ever tasted.

Until now… Read more and get the recipe …

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 21, 2010 | BEVERAGES

 

I grew up thinking a cantaloupe was a cantaloupe.

In West Texas, July brought a windfall of Pecos cantaloupes, surely the sweetest melons I’ve ever tasted.

Until now.

Shopping at the Scottsdale farmers market, I stopped at Seacat Gardens, and Carl Seacat asked me if I’d ever tasted a true cantaloupe.

Seacat, who farms an acre on the west side of Phoenix, says the netted melons we grew up with, and see in all the grocery stores this time of year, are really muskmelons — not true cantaloupes.

Front and center of his display, a bunch of orbs — some barely bigger than a softball — looked rather dwarfish, certainly nothing like the melons I thought of as cantaloupes.

 

Some were grayish green and others were marked with swaths of yellow streaks. The skins were smooth, unlike the webbed muskmelon-formerly-known-as-the-cantaloupe.

“These are Charentais,” he said, “a true cantaloupe — also called a French melon.”

And then he told me about the aroma, the taste, and before you know it, I’m handing over my wallet.

 

Seacat says Charentais (pronounced sha-rhan-tay, or in my best West Texas accent: Sharon-taze) emit heady floral fragrances and show pronounced yellowing when ripe. He told me to leave green ones on the counter a few days.

Back home, I sliced open the ripest one and immediately caught a whiff of honeysuckle — or was it jasmine or some blurred zephyr of the two?

The French wrap prosciutto around slices of Charentais. Seems rather Italian, doesn’t it?

My first inclination was to stand over the cutting board, which I did, biting into juicy slice after slice, sweet nectar dripping down my chin.

In my brain, the taste registered as cantaloupe, yet there was something marginally different about this melon.

The taste of honey filled my mouth. I swallowed and what lingered was sweet and floral.

At $3.75 a pound, perhaps it’s best to enjoy this melon alone, unadorned.

But I couldn’t help think of all the things I wanted to make with it.

Charentais salsa, with bits of red onion, jalapeno, mint and a spritz of lime.

Or a chilled Charentais soup, like the cantaloupe soup I submitted to Food 52.

Seacat told me that local pastry chef Tracy Dempsey was busy whipping up a Charantais sorbet as we spoke.

In the end, I decided to make a frothy Charentais frappé.

Still, I’m not sure anything beats eating Charentais straight from the cutting board.

 

 

Charentais Frappé

(printable recipe)

Look for Charentais melons at farmers markets. In the Phoenix area, Seacat Garden’s will have Charentais at the Scottsdale Stadium Farmers Market through the end of the summer. You can substitute 2-1/4 cups of cubed cantaloupe or honeydew for the Charentais. And by “cantaloupe” I mean muskmelon — which I swear I thought was a cantaloupe until I met the Charentais.

Serves 2

Ingredients
1 (1-1/4 pound) Charentais melon
1 cup lowfat vanilla yogurt
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom*

Method
1. Peel and seed melon. Chop into large chunks. Place in the freezer for 10-15 minutes (don’t freeze completely).

2. Place the yogurt in a blender. Place the chilled melon chunks on top of the yogurt. Add lemon juice and cardamom.

3. Blend until frothy. Chill until ready to serve.

*Cardamom adds an exotic note, but you can use cinnamon, or a dash of nutmeg instead.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 16, 2008 | BEVERAGES

Do you know how many smoothie cookbooks are floating around? I found more than 20 on Amazon alone. I only have one smoothie book (I can feel a trip to the bookstore coming on….) by those Corpening twins who owned a catering company called Thymes Two in San Francisco and went on to pen a dozen books or so.

There is even a low-carb smoothie book; which seems counter productive to me. Most smoothies are made with fruit and most fruits are loaded with carbs. I’m really sick of the whole low-carb thing anyway. I mean, cutting out white sugar and white flour is a noble thing to do, but cutting out all carbs is ridiculous. Our bodies need a healthy does of carbohydrates to function. You wouldn’t run your car without gas, so why would you run your body without fuel? But I digress…. this post is about smoothies.

The temperature forecast for today is 112. It’s already 97 and it’s only 9 a.m. And I’m battling a cold, so this morning, I made a smoothie for breakfast. Again, I didn’t specifically measure the ingredients (I just started blending and when it looked the right consistency and tasted like heaven, I stopped). It tasted so good, in fact, that I wanted to share it with you. Here goes…

Grapefruit-Orange-Blueberry Banana Smoothie

Makes about 2 cups

Ingredients
1 cup grapefruit juice
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup half & half
1 cup frozen blueberries
1 ripe, frozen banana

Method
1. Place all the ingredients (in order, starting with the juices) in a blender and puree until smooth, adding more juice or half & half if too thick.

[NOTE: keeping peeled, sliced ripe bananas in the freezer, along with a good supply of other frozen fruits makes for the best smoothies because then you don't need ice, which just dilutes the smoothies in my opinion.]

By Gwen Ashley Walters | OCTOBER 11, 2005 | BEVERAGES

I always like the name “real deal.” Maybe it’s because I’m a Texan by birth, and it’s a term that means something.

The first recipe that jumped out at me in Dotty Griffith’s book, The Contemporary Cowboy Cookbook, was this margarita recipe.

I’ve met Dotty, and I think she’s the real deal, too.

Not everyone agrees with her opinion, but she calls them as she sees them.

Here’s her recipe for honest-to-goodness margaritas… frozen concentrate and the tequila-shy need not apply…

Real Deal Margaritas

from The Contemporary Cowboy Cookbook by Dotty Griffith
Makes 10 cocktails

Ingredients
5 cups fresh lime juice or lime juice from frozen concentrate (not margarita mix or limeade), chilled
1 1/3 cups sugar
5 cups tequila, chilled
1/3 cup Triple Sec (orange liqueur)
Ice cubes
Coarse bar salt
Thin slices of lime

Method
1. In a large pitcher, combine lime juice and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar.

2. Add tequila, Triple Sec, and ice cubes. Stir until well-chilled.

3. If desired, place salt around the rim of the glass. Moisten edges of small cocktail tumblers, Margarita or martini glasses. Dip rims in salt to coat.

4. Strain Margarita cocktail into salt-rimmed glass over ice or straight up.

5. Serve immediately. Garish, if desired, with thin slice of lime.

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