Vegetables

By Linda Avery | MAY 05, 2013 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s Note: Linda Avery returns with a look at Curtis Stone’s latest book, What’s for Dinner. See what she thinks of the way the book is organized.

 

WHATS-FOR-DINNER-cover

What’s for Dinner?

Delicious Recipes for a Busy Life
by Curtis Stone
photos by Quentin Bacon © 2013

Facts: Ballantine Books, an imprint of The Random House Publishing Group, 320  pages, $35.00 (or Amazon $21.11)
Photos:
130 plus family and friends shots
Recipes:
118
Give to:  Fans of Top Chef Masters or a cookbook-loving mother on May 12th

Marketing cookbooks has to be more difficult today than it was 10-15 years ago. Not only are there so many platforms available, but there’s more competition. If you’re old enough to remember when The Food Network began in the mid-90’s and Ready, Set, Cook debuted, you know there weren’t the plethora of nationally or internationally known chefs there are today – or bloggers!. Over the years that world became smaller with the availability of the internet and so many jumping into the fray. We’ve seen the James Beard Foundation adding award categories to recognize and respond to the added media.

Also in response to that, cookbook authors look to make their book unique and appealing while not gimmicky. We saw Hiroko Shimbo build her book on six sauces and Tyler Florence arranged his table of contents by ingredient with John Lee’s virtually unplated (fabulous) food photos.

In Australian-born celebrity chef Curtis Stone’s fifth book What’s For Dinner: Delicious Recipes for a Busy Life, he recognizes how hectic our lives could be and helps the busy cook by taking it a day at a time. There is a chapter for each day of the week: Motivating Mondays, Time-Saving Tuesdays (dinner on the table in 15 to 40 minutes), One-Pot Wednesdays, and so on.

It’s clever and he delivers all the way to Family Supper Sundays. I’d bet his recognition of busy lives became even keener after he and his lovely wife, Lindsay, had son Hudson at the end of 2011.

His recipes are interesting and approachable. Each lists the prep time and cooking time. The active prep time of most recipes is 15 minutes or less (with the exception of Asian Crab Cakes with Mango Chutney — under the Dinner Party Saturdays’ chapter). Still, you’d never consider any of these stylish recipes “fast food.”

Peppered through the book are two categories of footnotes: Curtis’s Kitchen Note, e.g., an explanation of olive oil, how to toast nuts, cooking in season; and, Rounding Out the Meal, which adds a suggestion to complement the recipe such as Corn with Sage Brown Butter for Grilled Tri-tip with Green Bean and Red Onion Salad.

The final chapter, Something Sweet, delivers 15 dessert recipes from Oatmeal Coconut Butter Cookies to Banana Cream Parfait with Gingersnap Streusel.

I’ll enjoy having this book to turn to when I need inspiration for dinner.

Here’s a recipe from Five-Ingredient Fridays. Ahem, five ingredients not including “the staples oil, butter, flour, salt, and pepper.”

Orechiette-WFD

Orecchiette with Brown Butter, Broccoli, Pine Nuts, and Basil

photo by Quentin Bacon © 2013

Brown butter is butter that is cooked until it takes on an amber brown color and nutty flavor. There’s nothing to it, but you’ll be amazed at what this extra step does for a simple pasta dish. Of course, the basil — which has the ability to take a good recipe and make it better — doesn’t hurt, either. Cooked shrimp or chicken can be added to the pasta.

Serves 4
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients
13 ounces broccoli florets with 1-inch stems (about 6 cups)
1 pound orecchiette
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Method
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the broccoli and cook for about 2 minutes, or just until bright green. Using a mesh spoon or sieve, scoop the broccoli out of the water, draining it well, and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Set aside.

2. Return the water to a boil. Add the orecchiette and cook, stirring often to ensure it doesn’t stick together, for about 8 minutes, or until tender but still firm to the bite. Scoop out and reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the orecchiette.

3. Meanwhile, heat a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and stir for about 2 minutes, or until it has turned hazelnut brown. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring often, for about 1 minute, or until hot.

4. Add the pasta to the broccoli mixture and stir gently to combine. Stir in the basil, pine nuts, and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in enough of the reserved cooking water to moisten the pasta as necessary.

5. Divide the pasta among four pasta bowls, drizzle with olive oil, and serve.

Curtis’s Kitchen Note: DELICATE HERBS Using a large knife, chop herbs just before using, because the more delicate ones, like basil, will oxidize and turn brown soon after chopping. Make sure your knife is sharp — a dull one will bruise the herbs.

By Linda Avery | APRIL 14, 2013 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s Note: I make salads for dinner a couple times a week, and I’m always looking for inspiration. Perhaps I’ll find it here in Michele Anna Jordan’s book. Let’s see what Pen & Fork’s cookbook editor Linda Avery thinks.

By the way, congratulations are in order for Ms. Avery. She was selected as a cookbook judge for this year’s prestigious James Beard Awards.

Vinaigrettes.bookcover

Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings:

60 Sensational Recipes to Liven Up Greens, Grains, Slaws and Every Kind of Salad
by Michele Anna Jordan
photos by Kimberley Hasselbrink © 2013

Facts: Harvard Common Press, 192 pages, $16.95 (or Amazon $12.82)
Photos:
30 plus thumbnails
Recipes:
64

As I anticipate warmer weather, my thoughts turn to barbeques, bringing picnics to outdoor concerts, and lighter dinners. When I saw Michele Anna Jordan’s newest book, Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings, I thought about how easy it is to brighten up an old recipe simply by changing or adding a dressing.

Change up your go-to vinaigrette recipe by switching walnut oil for the olive oil, or instead of serving butter with grilled sweet corn, put on a drizzle of warm bacon-maple vinaigrette. This book brings lots of ideas without a whole lot of deep thought. Easy, breezy, perfect for summer.

The intro to Jordan’s book speaks to basics, i.e., what to have on hand for most any salad, the right tools and food safety. That’s followed by 27 vinaigrette recipes from a Balsamic Vinaigrette to Blood Orange, Ginger-Mustard, Warm Fava, and Watermelon, to name a few.

Enter the international world and she gives us Harissa sauce, Raita with many variations, Thai Lime Dressing, and about nine more in that realm. That chapter is followed by Classically Creamy dressings such as aioli, mayonnaise, Green Goddess, etc.

The last chapter is Sassy and Spirited Salads including a fruit salad dressed with Mimi’s Tears, composed of absinthe, honeydew, lime and cucumber, and Warm Bacon Potato Salad (with six variations!).

After each recipe there is a sentence of two about best uses for the particular dressing with suggestions like using the walnut vinaigrette on a salad of roasted beets, feta, and pomegranate arils, or wild rice with dried cranberries, or grilled scallops.

Also, each recipe is flavor profiled with tags such as creamy, rich, sweet, etc. The following recipe’s tags are savory, tangy, fragrant and spicy. It’s a good thing.

asparagus.vinaigrette001

Italian-Style Salsa Verde

photo by Kimberley Hasselbrink © 2013

Although Italian salsa verde is traditionally considered a condiment rather than a salad dressing, it is one of the best dressings in the world for certain types of salads, especially those made with grains, rice, or tiny pasta. Barley, farro, brown rice, or Israeli couscous dressed with nothing more than this is absolutely extraordinary. It is also delicious with a wide range of other foods, from raw zucchini sliced into thin ribbons to grilled meats.

Makes about 2 cups

Ingredients
4 cups loosely packed fresh Italian parsley, chopped
6 scallions, white and pale green parts only, very thinly sliced
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons capers, drained and minced, or 2 tablespoons brined
green peppercorns, drained
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Kosher salt
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste
Black pepper in a mill

Method
1. Put the parsley, scallions, cucumber, garlic, and capers in a medium bowl and toss
with a fork.

2. Put the mustard, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a small bowl, season generously with
salt, and stir in the olive oil. Season with several turns of black pepper and pour over
the parsley mixture. Taste, and correct for salt and acid as needed.

3. Cover and let sit for 30 minutes before using. Although salsa verde is best when first made, it can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days.

Variations
Traditional salsa verde to serve with meat: Omit the scallions, cucumber, and lemon
juice. Add 2 tablespoons anchovy paste or 12 anchovy fillets, mashed, along with the
mustard and 2 to 3 tablespoons (to taste) of red wine vinegar.

Traditional salsa verde to serve with fish: Omit the scallions and cucumber. Add 2
tablespoons anchovy paste or 12 anchovy fillets, mashed, along with the mustard and
lemon juice.

Best Uses
Raw zucchini ribbons; grilled radicchio; grilled asparagus; grilled cabbage wedges; whole roasted cauliflower; farro salad; barley salad; pasta salad with small pasta, such as acini di pepe; bread salad; grilled fish, poultry, and beef; pulled pork sandwiches

By Linda Avery | MARCH 16, 2013 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s note: Linda Avery returns with a look at Tyler Florence’s new book Fresh. It certainly doesn’t sound like it follows the same old cookbook formula. Read on to find out why.

TylerFlorenceFresh-Cover

Tyler Florence Fresh

by Tyler Florence
photos by John Lee © 2012

Facts: Clarkson Potter Publishers, 256 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon $19.88)
Photos:
121
Recipes:
85

Tyler Florence Fresh is eye candy of the highest caliber. Tyler Florence’s focus on fresh is a worthy one. He believes that fresh food means healthier people.

The book opens with a five-page “paper” where Florence articulates his point of view. It’s convincing. In a nutshell: fresh is good; GMO’s (genetically modified organisms), HFCS (high-fructose corn syrup) and chemical additives are bad. There’s a whole lot in between to make you a believer if you didn’t already embrace that philosophy.

He ends his introduction with “This entire book is about fresh – fresh ideas on how to make your tongue happy, a fresh perspective on nutrition, fresh dynamic flavors, a fresh approach to cooking techniques, and most important, a healthy decision to put fresh first.”

There are two rather unique approaches employed in the book. The table of contents is arranged by ingredients i.e. Anchovies, Apples, Artichokes, on thru Stone Fruits, Tuna, Zucchini. So you’ll have to look at the Index to find recipe names.

Then he fulfills his promise to give us “simple ways to transform healthy ingredients into absolute showstoppers.” The recipes (well, most of them) are not plated per se. Instead, the food is artfully displayed on a white background so that you can identify almost every ingredient used in the recipe. Very appealing, very cool.

He wakes up your mouth with new combinations: Butternut Squash Tortellini with Lentils, Yogurt and Sumac | Pickled Beets with Salmon, Sprouts, and Fromage Blanc | Sweet Pea Falafel, Charred Corn, and Pink Chile Mayo | Balsamic-Glazed California Squab, Crushed Clementine, and Grits.

The book is peppered with pages headed “Hero Ingredients” and “Hero Techniques” where he speaks briefly on subjects like lobster or raw milk cheese, quick pickling or making “pearls” – once you learn how to use agar agar powder to make balsamic pearls, Katie bar the door, you’ll want to make pearls of everything! Perhaps that makes up for the fact there are no headnotes, I did miss those.

Finally, yes, that’s a baby chick on his shoulder. Evidently his children fell in love with it so Tyler adopted it. But what’s a family to do with just one chick. There are now several chickens who live in a coop at the Florence residence. Wonder if Dad’s demonstrating the whole circle of life thing???

pickled-beets.salmon-TFF

Pickled Beets with Salmon, Sprouts, and Fromage Blanc

(photo by John Lee © 2012)

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients
For the pickled beets
4 medium red beets
2 cups white vinegar
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 small onion, finely sliced

For the salmon
1 whole side of boneless, skin-on salmon (about 1 1/2 pounds)
Kosher salt
Extra-virgin olive oil

1 ruby grapefruit
1/2 pound fromage blanc
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup white daikon radish sprouts
Extra-virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt

Method
Make the pickled beets
1. Scrub the beets, then slice them into 1/4-inch-thick disks. In a medium pot, combine the vinegar, sugar, caraway seeds, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the beets and the onion slices. Simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat and allow the beets to cool in the pickling mixture.

Make the salmon tartare
1. Preheat the oven to 300°F.

2. Using a very sharp filleting knife, carefully remove the skin from the fish fillet in one piece, reserving the skin. Thinly slice the salmon flesh, and refrigerate until ready to serve. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicone mat. Place the skin in the center of the parchment and spread it completely flat. Season it with a little salt and drizzle with a little olive oil. Place another sheet of parchment on top of the skin, then place a second baking sheet on top to hold the skin flat. Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake the salmon skin for 25 minutes, until completely crispy and golden. Place the crispy skin on a wire rack and allow to cool completely.

3. Use a sharp knife to slice off the rind and pith from the grapefruit. Cut between the membranes to free the grapefruit segments. Whip the fromage blanc with the lemon juice until light and creamy.

4. Transfer the beet slices to a serving plate, draining off any excess liquid. Top with the salmon slices and grapefruit segments, and dot with the fromage blanc. Garnish with the sprouts and a few pieces of pickled onion.

5. Drizzle with a little olive oil and season with sea salt. Dress very lightly with some pickling liquid from the beets. Break the crispy salmon skin into small pieces and scatter over the top.

By Linda Avery | JANUARY 28, 2013 | BEEF

Editor’s note: Linda Avery returns with a look at Hiroko Shimbo’s modern take on bringing Japanese flavors into the American kitchen. See what she thought, and pick up a savory recipe for skirt steak.

Hiroko-bookcover

Hiroko’s American Kitchen: Cooking with Japanese Flavors

by Hiroko Shimbo
photos by Frances Janisch © 2012

Facts: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, 224 pages, $24.99 (or Amazon $16.37)
Photos: 30 plus technique photos
Recipes: 125

Do you feel intimidated by the thought of cooking a Japanese meal? Perhaps you’re worried about finding specific ingredients or a special tool, or if you’d know a specific technique. Hiroko Shimbo recognized that most American home cooks might feel that way. Author of the award-winning The Japanese Kitchen and The Sushi Experience, Hiroko is a cooking instructor at heart.

She had a brilliant idea in how to break down some of the psychological barriers through a small twist on format. In Hiroko’s American Kitchen, rather than structuring the chapters by course, or food categories like breads, meats, sweets, she decided to divide the book by sauces.

Actually, there are two stocks and four sauces: Kelp Stock, Dashi Stock, White Sumiso Sauce, Spicy Miso Sauce, Best Basting and Cooking Sauce, and Super Sauce (her name for the most useful sauce in her refrigerator). These sauces “serve as the central ingredient in each of the recipes.”

Recipes are built from there using mostly familiar ingredients. Among the diverse recipes (about 20 recipes per chapter) are Mesclun with Sumiso-Carrot Dressing, Kale in Peanut Butter-Tofu Sauce, Spiced Kabocha Squash Soup, Avocado and Salmon in Dill-Daikon Broth.

So choose an appealing sauce, such as Spicy Miso Sauce, described as robust, and a nice compliment to vegetables and proteins. Scout out a couple recipes in the miso chapter that appeal to you. I made the sauce before solidifying my recipe choice because I wanted to know exactly how it tasted. The answer was delicious and I can only image how yummy the Peanut Butter-Miso Sauce is going to be on raw veggies.

My recipe choice then was Miso Shrimp Scampi – no garlic butter on this scampi but instead sake, scallions, minced garlic and ginger, plus the spicy miso sauce. Divine.

In addition to recipes there are a half dozen techniques demonstrated, a sourcing guide for Japanese food products and handy equivalency tables.

If you’ve wanted to try cooking a Japanese dish, Hiroko has made it easier than ever. Now it’s your turn to try the Spicy Miso Sauce with a different protein: skirt steak.

You must admit, it’s a pretty nifty approach.

hiroko-skirt-steak001

Skirt Steak Meets Spicy Miso Sauces

(photo by Frances Janisch © 2012)

Skirt steak and its closely related counterpart, flank steak, are bonus cuts. Skirt steak is flavorful and economical and is indispensable for dishes like Mexican fajitas and Chinese stir-fries. Here is my Japanese-flavored version of this cut. It is excellent for cooking in the oven or on the grill. Serve the cooked meat, thinly sliced, with baked sweet potato or simple steamed rice.

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients
For the spicy miso sauce (makes 1 1/2 cups)*
1 cup aged brown miso (aka miso)
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
3/4 cup mirin (sweet cooking wine)
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sake (rice wine)
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

For the skirt steak
4 small sweet potatoes (1 1/2 pounds)
1 pound skirt steak or flank steak
1/4 cup Spicy Miso Sauce
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil or vegetable oil
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion

Method
Make the miso sauce
1. Place the miso, sugar, mirin, and sake in a medium pot and whisk until smooth.

2. Place pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat, add the red pepper flakes, and stir.

3. Transfer the sauce to a clear freezer container. ** Cover the jar with a lid and store it in the freezer.

Make the skirt steak
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the sweet potatoes in a medium pot, add enough water to cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook the potatoes for 13 to 15 minutes or until they are soft but not mushy. Remove the potatoes from the water, wrap each potato in aluminum foil, and bake them for 30 minutes.

2. Rub the beef with 2 tablespoons of the Spicy Miso Sauce and let it stand for 30 minutes, up to 2 hours. Wipe the beef with a paper towel to remove excess sauce. Season the steak with salt and pepper. Heat the canola oil in an oven-proof medium skillet over medium-low heat, add the steak, and cook until golden. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake the steak for 2 to 3 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the beef to a warm plate.

3. Add the water and the remaining 2 tablespoons spicy Miso Sauce to the skillet and cook until it is reduced and slightly thickened. Transfer the beef to a cutting board and cut it into 1/4-inch-thick strips crosswise.

4. Divide the beef slices and potatoes among serving plates, then pour the sauce over the meat. Garnish with sesame seeds and scallion and serve.

*Note: Freezing will not change the texture of the sauce, and prepared sauce can be stored in the freezer for up to three months. When needed, take the jar out of the freezer, quickly scoop and transfer the necessary portion to a small bowl, and return the jar to the freezer to preserve the quality.

** Pen & Fork Editor’s note: cool the sauce without the lid completely before sealing and placing in the freezer.

By Linda Avery | JANUARY 14, 2013 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s Note: Linda Avery returns with a look at a new book from the author of Plenty that’s generating plenty of buzz on its own. Read on to see what she thought.
Otto_Jerusalem_Cover

Jerusalem: A Country

by Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi
food photography by Jonathan Lovekin © 2012; location photography by Adam Hinton © 2012

Facts: Ten Speed Press, 320 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon $19.85)
Photos: about 98 food photos related to the recipes plus lots of people, shops, country, and slice of life shots
Recipes: 125

Two men born in Jerusalem. East side/West side. They meet in London almost 30 years later and, like Rick and Louie, it must have been “the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”

Jerusalem: A Country has shown up on most 2012 best cookbooks lists. It’s unique, it’s beautiful, and as with many recent cookbooks, they want to make you as aware of the locale as the food via photos.

Yotam and Sami say the book is a combination of traditional dishes where no recipe alterations have been made and others, while still traditional, with which they have taken “poetic license,” updating as it suits them. They describe the food in the book as what they grew up with, i.e., “food in abundance… big piles in markets… big flavors”. Listen for yourself.

As I read the book, I pulled up a map of Jerusalem and then a map of the West Bank and Gaza, and then I flipped to Wikipedia to read exactly what Levantine cuisine is. As a food lover, there is so much about this cuisine and area of the world to study. Granted, one doesn’t need to know about the history or area to read and cook a recipe, but it does make the process so much more interesting.

If I had not been intrigued by that alone, looking at the first recipes in the book would have done it. Vegetables: Roasted sweet potatoes & fresh figs, Na’ama’s fattoush, Puréed beets with yogurt & za’atar, Roasted potatoes with caramel & prunes. It’s not unexpected that there are 67 pages of mouth-watering veggie recipes after Ottolenghi’s 2011 all vegetarian book Plenty.

There is balance in this book. Meat and fish recipes are plentiful: Slow-cooked veal with prunes & leek, kofta, lamb shawarma, cod cakes, pan-fried mackerel with golden beet & orange salsa and fish skewers to name a few. The book wraps up with savory pastries, sweet desserts and numerous condiments.

If you shy away from the exotic, you’ll find barley risotto with marinated feta, couscous with tomato and onion, even turkey burgers with green onion and cumin, but I urge you to put your toe across the line and try a Saffron chicken & herb salad — to die for.

Roasted sweet potatoes & fresh figsRoasted-sweet-potatoes

(photo by Jonathan Lovekin © 2012)

Figs are abundant in Jerusalem and many trees, bearing the most delectable fruit, actually belong to no one, so anybody can help themselves. Summer months are always tinted with the smell of wild herbs and ripe figs. The mother of Sami’s childhood neighbor and friend, Jabbar, used her roof to dry the glut of figs (and tomatoes) in the hot summer sun, spending hours cleaning and sorting them meticulously. Poor Um Jabbar—Sami and her son never wasted time and used to sneak up to her roof regularly, stealing her figs at their peak and causing havoc. This wasn’t enough for Jabbar, though. The boy had such a sweet tooth that he always carried around with him an old match box full of sugar cubes, just in case. Unfortunately, this habit had clear ramifications, evident in his “charming” smile.

This unusual combination of fresh fruit and roasted vegetables is one of the most popular at Ottolenghi. It wholly depends, though, on the figs being sweet, moist, and perfectly ripe. Go for plump fruit with an irregular shape and a slightly split bottom. Pressing against the skin should result in some resistance but not much. Try to smell the sweetness. The balsamic reduction is very effective here, both for the look and for rounding up the flavors. To save you from making it, you can look for products such as balsamic cream or glaze.

Serves 4

Ingredients
4 small sweet potatoes (2 pounds / 1 kg in total)
5 tablespoons olive oil
Scant 3 tbsp / 40 ml balsamic vinegar (you can use a commercial rather than a premium aged grade)
1 tablespoon / 20 g superfine sugar
12 green onions, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-in / 4cm segments
1 red chile, thinly sliced
6 ripe figs (8 ounces / 240 g in total), quartered
5 ounces / 150 g soft goat’s milk cheese (optional)
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 475°F / 240°C.

2. Wash the sweet potatoes, halve them lengthwise, and then cut each half again similarly into 3 long wedges. Mix with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, 2 teaspoons salt, and some black pepper. Spread the wedges out, skin side down, on a baking sheet and cook for about 25 minutes, until soft but not mushy. Remove from the oven and leave to cool down.

3. To make the balsamic reduction, place the balsamic vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer for 2 to 4 minutes, until it thickens. Be sure to remove the pan from the heat when the vinegar is still runnier than honey; it will continue to thicken as it cools. Stir in a drop of water before serving if it does become too thick to drizzle.

4. Arrange the sweet potatoes on a serving platter. Heat the remaining oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the green onions and chile. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often to make sure not to burn the chile. Spoon the oil, onions, and chile over the sweet potatoes. Dot the figs among the wedges and then drizzle over the balsamic reduction. Serve at room temperature. Crumble the cheese over the top, if using.

“Reprinted with permission from Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi,  © 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.”

By Linda Avery | DECEMBER 30, 2012 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s note: Linda Avery returns with a look at Hubert Keller’s new book, and selects a recipe to share that seems perfectly fitting for the new year. Hubert Keller is a superstar chef, but he isn’t one to beat his own drum. I’m glad someone convinced him to put his life & recipes in a book.

Souvenirs-bookcover

Souvenirs: Stories & Recipes from My Life

by Hubert Keller with Penelope Wisner
photos by Eric Wolfinger

Facts: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, 340 pages, $50.00 (or Amazon $31.50)
Photos: 300
Recipes: 120

Preparing to write the review of this book, I looked over my notes and the recurrence of words like family, warmth, tradition and friends was obvious. Those words probably are within the definition of Hubert Keller. On page one he says he didn’t start out intending to write a memoir, but as so many recipes reminded him of a story, it naturally took that direction.

The sincerity in his life stories was plain to me but if there were a doubting Thomas, the photographs would erase any question. A photographic timeline begins in 1954 with three-month old Hubert in a buggy along with parents and grandparents. In total contrast to that, in 1979 when, at the request of Roger Vergé, he and his beloved wife Chantal moved to Brazil, a dark, full-bearded hippy sort of Keller appears. (Some time between ’54 and ’79, he developed that twinkle in his eye—my money is on 1973 when he met Chantal).

The photos continue – family, mentors, his chefs, friends – lots of friends, the opening of Fleur de Lys, and a much better groomed Keller shows up in 1993 when he was called to the White House. The pictures are the punctuation marks in the numerous stories.

The chapters follow the timeline as well: Family Treasures presents the Alsatian traditional recipes of his family (his father owned a pâtisserie) and friends; Mentorship by Three Star Chefs speaks to his learning at L’Auberge de L’Ill (under the Haeberlin brothers) in Alsace. Recipes in Adaptation demonstrate his recogniztion of the need to use local products to woo the (Brazilian) locals i.e. kale instead of spinach, swapping out sole for namorado, a Brazilian fish, etc. Remember, that was 1979, long before everyone jumped on the idea of sourcing locally.

Modern French Cooking houses recipes he developed in the US for Fleur de Lys, then the chapter Pioneer, the period where dishes like Crab and Avocado Salad with Watermelon Gazpacho and Burrata with Sweet Pea Ice Cream, Pickled Cherry Tomatoes, and Spicy Paprika Oil were created (also The HK Burger).

And so appropriately the book’s last two chapters are Love & Partnership (recipes he and Chantal make together or for each other) and finally, Holiday Traditions.

This book could easily have been split into a memoir and a cookbook. Content abounds. The recipes aren’t impossible and he anticipates questions with sidebar explanations. Go to Amazon and use the “Look Inside” feature to look at some recipes. Don’t miss White Gazpacho but do have a napkin ready to dab your mouth.

Anyone will verify that I don’t gush, but I’ve sure been telling a lot of people about this book. After indulging in too much holiday food, this swordfish recipe seems perfect. Chef Keller tells in a sidebar how to make this sauce the “original” way i.e., begin with braising carrots. If you would like that recipe, let me know in the comments.

Keller-swordfish

Pepper-Flecked, Slow-Roasted Swordfish with a Cardamom-Carrot Infusion

(photo © by Eric Wolfinger)

Jacques Maximin first introduced me to vegetable-based sauces such as this one when we worked together at Le Chantecler on the Côte d’Azur. I’ve streamlined his recipe a little. This is a very clean, simple dish with the sparkle of pepper on the fish and a pretty, delicious yet healthy, low-fat sauce made from reduced carrot juice infused with cardamom. You could use the same sauce with sautéed chicken breasts, a veal medallion, or grilled sea scallops.

Serves 4

Ingredients
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
4 skinless swordfish steaks (about 5 ounces each and 3/4 to 1 inch thick)
Sea salt
About 1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 cup fresh carrot juice
1 1/2 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon cracked green cardamom pods (about 6)
Freshly ground white pepper
Sugar, for sweetening the sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 pound fresh pea shoots or baby spinach

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 250°F and oil a baking dish or sheet pan that will fit the fish in a single layer. Brush the swordfish with olive oil and let sit in the prepared pan at room temperature for a few minutes. Season the swordfish on both sides with salt and sprinkle the top with the black pepper. Cover with parchment paper and then seal tightly with aluminum foil.

2. Bake until the fish is just cooked through and the flesh begins to flake, about 45 minutes. Swordfish is a delicious and expensive fish, so you want to be careful with your timing. Check your fillets first at about 30 minutes, because ovens always vary and you do not want to overcook your fish. Also, swordfish dries out quickly once cooked , so have your sauce ready, the pea shoots sautéed, and your plates warm so you can serve immediately.

3. Meanwhile, place the carrot juice in a small nonreactive saucepan. Add the vinegar, cardamom, a pinch each of salt and freshly ground white pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 10 minutes. The juice may separate while it simmers, but it will come back together when you thicken it into a sauce.

4. Cover the pan and let the cardamom infuse the carrot juice for another 10 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean small saucepan and return to a gentle simmer.

5. Put the cornstarch in a small lidded jar with twice as much water and shake well. Add the cornstarch mixture little by little while whisking and watching for signs of thickening. Shake before each addition. The finished sauce should have the consistency of heavy cream. Taste for seasoning and sweetness and add more salt, white pepper, and sugar as needed. Keep the sauce warm. If the sauce gets too thick, thin it with the cooking juices from the pan.

6. Heat 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook just until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the pea shoots to the skillet with the garlic. Toss and cook just until the shoots have wilted and turned bright green, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.

7. Divide the pea shoots among 4 warm dinner plates and arrange the fish on top. Spoon the cardamom-carrot sauce around and serve immediately.

By Linda Avery | DECEMBER 16, 2012 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s Note:  Linda Avery returns with a review of SPQR, the new cookbook from the popular San Francisco restaurant with the same name. Find out what especially hit home for her in this modern Italian cookbook.


SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine
by Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino with Kate Leahy
photos by Sara Remington

Facts: Ten Speed Press, 304 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon $23.10)
Photos: 180 plus maps
Recipes: 79

SPQR. Hmmm… SPQR? I didn’t know what to make of it. A typo? No, an acronym for Senatus Populesque Romanus. SPQR was the emblem of the Roman Empire and translates to “The People and Senate of Rome.” And now it translates to a restaurant in San Francisco. And a book — actually a cookbook — featuring wine and recipes from the restaurant.

Shelley Lindgren is wine director and co-owner of SPQR (the restaurant); Matthew Accarrino is executive chef. Together, they stitched this cookbook, covering the northern and central regions of Italy in a very clever manner.

Eight regions are featured in the book: Lazio, Le Marche, Umbria, Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Aldige, Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia, Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta, Liguria and Toscana.  Hey, that’s more than eight regions. Yes, it is, but they weren’t literally referring to regions of Italy as we know them. The authors chose ancient roads of the Roman Empire to define their chapters.

Everyone has heard of The Appian Way or Via Appia in Italy. Via Appia travels only through Lazio. But Via Aurelia, for example, spans Liguria and Toscana.

That is the clever thing. Many of the ancient vias (aka roads) in the network traveled through more than one region as we know them today. It’s logical that this connection — geographical, agricultural and sociological — would inspire many of the same dishes.

I like it. I like it particularly because my ancestral region of Le Marche on the Adriatic is usually a forgotten area, but there are 20 pages devoted to Le Marche in SPQR.

Each chapter begins with a map and anecdotal information about the area. And it includes the names, along with the history and profile of the white and red grapes grown in the area with recommended producers; e.g., for Alto Adige, red grapes include “Lagrein…. nearly black in color… flavors in the wine exhibit blackberries, blueberries, red currants, leather… Recommended Producers: Alois Lageder,” plus several more.

Following Lindgren’s take on wines, Accarrino relates an aspect of the foods in the region, like the truffle hunt in Umbria and the German and Austrian influence in Alto Adige. The recipes in each region include starters, mains, and a dessert.

The subtitle of the book “Modern Italian Food and Wine” is exemplified in recipes such as Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup; Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese and Sprouting Green; and Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma (foam).

The recipes aren’t particularly complicated, but several have sub-recipes within. Ingredient amounts are listed in volume and metric weight measures (which we love).

When it came time to select a recipe to share, I naturally gravitated to my roots.

FLUKE CRUDO, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus

(photo © by Sara Redington)

Serves 6

Senigallia, a cosmopolitan beach town on the coast of the Adriatic, has two of my favorite restaurants in Italy, La Madonnina del Pescatore and Uliassi. Both take advantage of the bountiful local catch, focusing heavily on seafood. It is a particular specialty of chef Moreno Cedroni, who in addition to running La Madonnina, operates a bar where he specializes in crudo and “salumi,” made from fish. Crudo is seafood served in its freshest, purest form: raw. I find it pairs well with salty accents, like green olives stuffed with sausage and fried – a specialty of the southern Marche town of Ascoli Piceno. To match the briny flavors of the olives, I also garnish the crudo with sea beans, little vegetables that grow in the San Francisco Bay. Their salty crunch pairs particularly well with seafood. (Use capers if sea beans are unavailable.)

Serves 6
Ingredients
For the crudo
1 cup (150 g) kosher salt
1/3 cup (75 g) sugar
About 1/4 cup mixed citrus zest (orange, Meyer lemon, grapefruit)
5 to 10 mint leaves
One 8- to 12-ounce (227 to 340 g) fluke fillet, boned and skinned

For the olives
2 ounces (57 g) sweet Italian sausage meat
12 to 18 large green pitted olives, like Casteveltrano or Cerignola
1/4 cup (32 g) Wondra flour
1 egg (50 g), lightly beaten
1/4 cup (30 g) fine dried breadcrumbs
Kosher salt

1 orange, segmented
1 Meyer lemon, segmented
1 grapefruit, segmented
1/2 cup sea beans (or capers)
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon lime zest
Extra virgin olive oil
6 to 12 small mint leaves

Method
1. Using your hands, rub the salt, sugar, zest, and mint leaves together to release the mint and citrus flavors.

2. Lay out a long sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface. Scatter half of the cure on the plastic in an even layer about the length of the fish. Place the fish on top and cover with the remaining cure. Wrap the sides of the plastic wrap over the fish, forming a snug package and refrigerate for 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

3. To make the olives stuff the sausage meat into the hollows of the olives. Dredge the olives in Wondra, then egg, then breadcrumbs (add kosher salt to taste). Refrigerate until ready to fry.

4. Cut the citrus segments thinly crosswise and mix together in a small bowl. Bring a pot of unsalted water to a boil. Prepare the ice bath. Blanch the sea beans for about 1 minute, then drain and shock in the ice bath. Unwrap the fish, rinse it under cool water, and pat dry. Slice crosswise into 1/8-inch thick pieces. Lay the pieces on chilled plates.

5. In a small bowl, mix the salt and lime zest together. In a small pot, heat 1 inch of olive oil to 360°F and line a tray with paper towels. Fry the olives until the breading has turned golden, 1 to 2 minutes. With a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, lift the olives out of the oil and drain on the paper towels. Season with lime salt.

6. To serve, spoon the citrus around and on top of the fish slices. Drizzle olive oil over the top and sprinkle with lime salt. Finish with the fried olives, sea beans, and mint leaves.

By Linda Avery | DECEMBER 10, 2012 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s note: It takes a village to produce a Thomas Keller cookbook. There’s Thomas, his bakery chefs, a gaggle of cookbook writers and one stellar photographer. Linda Avery reviews the latest book, Bouchon Bakery, and takes a gluten-free brioche recipe for a spin.

Bouchon Bakery
by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel
photos by Deborah Jones

Facts: Artisan, 400 pages, $50.00 (or Amazon $24.99)
Photos: 313 give or take (including a shot of Keller, the six-year-old Jersey heifer and butter source)
Recipes: 150

Every foodie knows the name Thomas Keller, but Sebastien Rouxel isn’t as familiar. Rouxel was hired by Keller in 1998 as head pastry chef at The French Laundry in Yountville, CA, and now leads five Bouchon Bakeries around the country.

It is apparent that the two have tremendous respect for each other. The collaborative effort put forth to produce this sophisticated cookbook is based on respect, friendship, and 14 years of working together.

The first 29 pages are devoted to their journeys to present day; Susie Keller and Amy Vogler weigh in (no pun intended) with a discussion of weighing verses measuring, equipment and favorite recipes.

Of the nine chapters of recipes that follow, bread – breads so beautiful that you can almost smell them – is king.

Keller announces “Bread is the reason Bouchon Bakery exists.”

The bread chapter (80 pages) includes fundamentals: bread dough shapes, a timeline grid addressing different bread requirements (so the baker can take advantage of down time to do other things.)

The quest for perfection is apparent throughout the book. Other chapters are devoted to cookies, cakes, scones, tarts, brioche, puff pastry and croissants, pâte a choux and confections. The cookies chapter even includes a recipe for dog treats.

Photos abound and are educational. Deborah Jones‘ photos are (this may be the first time I’ve said this) beyond perfection. They give the baker something to strive for. They are not just the end product images but technique photos and how-to photos. You will want to run out and buy a lattice bicycle cutter so that fruit can be seen through the open tops of your puff pastry.

This is not a book for the faint of heart. Most of the recipes include sub-recipes and are geared toward the experienced baker and the professional. In spite of the complexity of the recipes, anyone interested in baking will learn and appreciate the in-depth information.

Having said that, I’ll add that there is a recipe for the (with all due respect) ubiquitous blueberry muffin. However, this is the first time I’ve seen it noted “to rest the batter overnight or for up to 36 hours…” proving there’s always room for improvement.

We all have our favorite blueberry muffin recipe to which we can apply the new knowledge of a suggested resting period, but I don’t know anyone who can claim a fabulous Gluten-Free Brioche Roll recipe. This photo makes my mouth water. What a fabulous addition to any holiday dinner – be sure to mention that this is a recipe Thomas Keller uses!

Gluten-Free Brioche Rolls

(photo © by Deborah Jones)

Makes 12 rolls

In 2007, a young chef, Lena Kwak, did an internship at The French Laundry, and we asked her to stay. She was interested in nutrition, and as we found ourselves increasingly responding to diners who had specific dietary requests and restrictions, we often looked to Lena (pronounced “Lenna”) to test new recipes.

One of the most common requests we get is for gluten-free breads, cakes, cookies, pasta, and other preparations. And gluten intolerance is a condition we take seriously.

Every meal at The French Laundry begins with a cornet, a savory cone-shaped tuile filled with crème fraîche and salmon tartare. So Corey Lee, chef de cuisine at the time, asked Lena to develop a gluten-free tuile. And she moved on to other gluten-free products. Lena didn’t realize how important her work was until a diner came back to the kitchen, not to thank the chef, but to see her.

“She wanted to thank me for the brioche,” Lena recalls. “She started crying. She hadn’t been able to eat bread in seven years. People don’t realize how special the simplest pleasures are until they can’t have them.”

Lena had worked hard to create an all-purpose mixture, based on different rice flours, potato flours, and cornstarch, that she could use in any gluten-free baked good, one that could be substituted cup for cup, gram for gram, for wheat flour.

It was so good that Corey suggested she talk to me about developing a product we could market. It was 2010, and I was already making a number of products for Williams-Sonoma, but this one was potentially the most special of all. And that’s how Cup4Cup was born. It’s something we’re very proud of, as we are of these gluten-free brioche rolls. These are not just “pretty good for gluten-free,” they are fantastic brioche rolls, period.

Ingredients
2 teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast
1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons (20 grams) granulated sugar
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons + 1 3/4 teaspoons (230 grams) warm water, at 75°F/23.8°C
3 3/4 cups + 1 tablespoon (535 grams) Cup4Cup (available at Williams-Sonoma)
2 tablespoons + 3/4 teaspoon (20 grams) kosher salt
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons (158 grams) eggs
1 1/2 tablespoons (22 grams) egg yolks
1/4 cup (80 grams) honey
3.5 ounces (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 egg for the egg wash
1 teaspoon (6 grams) Maldon salt for sprinkling

You will need a 12-cup muffin pan.

Method
1. Combine the yeast and sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the warm water, and set in a warm spot to proof for 10 minutes or until the yeast mixture is foaming and bubbly.

2. Meanwhile, combine the Cup4Cup and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Whisk together the eggs, yolks, honey, butter, and proofed yeast mixture in a medium bowl.

3. Turn the mixer to low speed and slowly add the egg mixture. Increase the speed to medium and mix the dough for 10 minutes. It will be very silky and not as stiff as regular bread dough.

4. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set the bowl in a warm spot until the dough has about doubled in size, about 1 hour.

5. Using a rubber spatula, deflate the dough, turning it over a few times in the bowl. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours.

6. Make the egg wash by breaking 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.

7. Spray the muffin pan with nonstick spray. Spoon 1/3 cup (75 grams) of the dough into each cup. Brush the tops of the rolls with egg wash, sprinkle with the Maldon salt, and set in a warm spot to proof uncovered for about 40 minutes until they rise (but are not doubled) and spread slightly.

8. Preheat the oven to 350°F (standard). Bake the rolls for 15 to 17 minutes, until the tops are a golden brown and a wooden skewer inserted in the center of a roll comes out clean.

9. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 02, 2012 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

UPDATE: We have a winner. The Random.org number generator spit out #1, so congrats to Lived In Italy. You’ll receive the signed copy of Chocolate Snowball. Thanks to everyone who commented. 

Of course the chocolate snowball is the signature dessert at Deer Valley Ski Resort in Park City, Utah. The dome-shaped, flourless chocolate cake, covered in whipped cream stars has been on the menu of The Mariposa (the resort’s fine dining restaurant) since opening day in 1981.

When Letty Flatt, the Executive Pastry Chef of the resort decided to write a cookbook in 1998, it was a no brainer what the book’s name would be: Chocolate Snowball (and Other Fabulous Pastries from Deer Valley Bakery.) The first edition was a hardcover book, but late last year, the resort decided to reprint the book in paperback, and Letty took the opportunity to add eight new recipes.

Letty is a good friend of mine and she is my baking expert. Whenever I am stumped on a baking technique or have a question about a particular dessert, Letty is my go-to source.

I love her book, so I bought an extra copy while I was in Park City this fall and asked her to sign it for one of my readers. Here’s why I think you’d like to have this book in your kitchen.

Every recipe I’ve tried works like a charm — because Letty wrote explicit, detailed instructions. She tells you when to whisk slowly vs. quickly. She gives visual clues “mixture will giggle, like molded gelatin.” Trust me, you’ll feel like she’s holding your hand, step by step.

The recipes are coded with a circle (easy); square (intermediate) and diamond (expert)… just like the symbols on ski runs. By the way, Letty landed in Park City in the early 80′s for the sole purpose of skiing. She needed a job to support her skiing habit, so she knocked on the then-brand new Deer Valley Resort. She’s been there ever since.

While mainly a dessert book, Chocolate Snowball isn’t exclusively all about desserts. There is a chapter on breakfast pastries (Dried Cherry Scones and Honey Sticky Buns) and another on savory breads (Green Chile and Cheese Cornbread and Roquefort Gougères). Letty also covers the usual suspects: cookies and bars; cakes and cheesecakes; pies and tartsice cream and sorbetspuddings; and fruit specialties.

In all there are 126 recipes, most of them easy or intermediate, plus fundamental formulas and baking at high altitude. It’s a terrific book and I’m thrilled to give it away. All you have to do is leave a comment below telling me something….anything…related to cooking. Tell me how many cookbooks you own, or what your favorite dessert is, or who your go-to cooking authority is.

And if you don’t want to enter the giveaway, I hope you will still consider adding Letty’s book to your own collection, or giving it as a gift to someone who loves baking or skiing or both.

Enter your comment before 11:59 p.m. (Eastern Standard Time) on December 7th. We’ll pick a comment at random to win. Will only ship to U.S. addresses. One comment per person.

Chocolate Snowball and Other Fabulous Pastries from Deer Valley Bakery

by Letty Halloran Flatt

 

 

 

By Linda Avery | NOVEMBER 18, 2012 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Editor’s Note: Linda Avery returns with a review of three books she thinks you might want to put on your wish list — either for you or for a holiday gift.

So many books, so little time… Well, that’s not exactly true but I have a passel of books I want to bring to your attention. Brevity is the order of the day.

Frontera: Margaritas, Guacamoles and Snacks
by Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless
photos by Paul Elledge

Facts: W.W. Norton & Company, 256 pages, $24.95 (or Amazon $16.47)
Photos: Almost every recipe has a photo
Recipes: 109 (bartender’s recipe and pitcher recipe counted as two—33 of those, so 76 without)

Just released is the latest from Rick & Deann Bayless. There are three chapters of beautiful and creative margaritas: classic, seasonal fruit and herb, and, mescal margaritas. After a recipe for the classic margarita, come the inspired ones such as: Tangerine Spice Margarita, Meyer Lemon Margarita, Ultimate Strawberry Margarita. Moving to the decadent we find: Oaxacan Gold Margarita, Tamarind Mezcal followed by Absinthe-Mezcal. Tequila fans will love Vampiro and Mexican El Diablo (I’m getting woozy).

The most versatile chapter is Agua Fresca Cocktails. They begin with the recipe for Agua Fresca, the non-alcoholic part of the cocktail which in itself is delish. And next to that is “Turning the Agua Fresca into Cocktails.” Five recipes to tempt: teetotaler or alcohol participant? For example, a Tangy Cucumber-Mint Cocktail would begin with mint, cucumber, lime juice and sugar for the Agua Fresca, and the addition of ginger, blue agave tequila, ginger liqueur and lime transform it into the cocktail. Everyone’s happy!

So what will you serve along with these cocktails? Choose from the dozen or so guacamole recipes and mix it up with Citrusy Jicama and Watermelon with Toasted Sesame, or Green Chile Pumpkin Seeds with Tequila and Lime. This is a party waiting to happen.

Turkey: More than 100 Recipes with Tales from the Road
by Leanne Kitchen
food photos by Amanda McLauchlan

Facts: Chronicle Books, 272 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon $23.10)
Photos: 174
Recipes: Just over 100

There aren’t many times where I review a cookbook when I haven’t visited the mother country of the cuisine but this is the case. I didn’t know there were seven distinct/diverse regions in Turkey each with its own signature foods ranging from watermelon to tulum (Turkish goat milk cheese ripened in a goatskin casing), and recipes based on rosewater or hazelnuts in other regions.

I am excited about these recipes. As a matter of fact, my BFF and I decided that, for her dinner club on New Year’s Eve, we’d be cooking exclusively from this book.

The book is divided into eight chapters, from Meze (appetizers) to Desserts. Kitchen speaks of the “varied and venerable cuisine” from Ottoman-derived dishes to Anatolian peasant fare and the influence of the eight countries bordering Turkey. Staples of the diet include yogurt, kebabs, börek (a filled flaky pastry), pide (generally bread but usually brings to mind Turkish pizza), and gözleme (a stuffed lavash browned in a pan).

The ingredients in the recipes may not be in your everyday pantry, but they aren’t so exotic that they are impossible to find. I thought she should have included a Sources section but when I looked at the ingredients to support my thought, the most foreign I found was Turkish pepper paste and her footnote directed the reader to a Middle Eastern or Turkish grocery store. Fair enough.

The desserts sound divine: Coffee Custards with Halva Pastries, Rose and Pistachio Sweetmeats, Candied Squash, and Chilled Yogurt Cream with Sweet Tomato Compote among others.

Evidently this book has attracted a lot of attention since it came out on September 5th and Amazon has only a handful left in stock from the first run.

Canal House Cooks Every Day
by Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer
photos by Christopher Hirshheimer; Illustrations by Melissa Hamilton

Facts: Andrews McMeel Publishing, 384 pages, $45.00 (or Amazon $29.70)
Photos: over 240
Recipes: 246

Canal House Cooks Every Day is a much larger volume than Canal House Cooking Volume No. 7: La Dolce Vita that I reviewed in February of this year. Matter of fact, the word volume isn’t in the title. I figured it was a regurgitation and some combination of recipes from numerous books that had preceded it – some companies do that you know (wink wink). But this book is big and beautiful and fresh. While I’m sure that at least under the heading Canal House Essentials you may recognize a recipe, there was no shuffling the deck and putting recipes in a new order.

There is a whimsical, light-hearted feeling about the book that begins with the foreword: “FOREWORD by Julia Child as dictated from beyond to Amanda Hesser” Julia goes on to say that the partnership of Melissa and Christopher reminds her of her years with Louisette and Simca. That M & C are after no particular cuisine, they cook what suits them and that’s what we all should be doing.

These two women only have to inhale and their creativity is replenished.

The recipes are by season by month. For example:

April: Pappardelle with Peans & Scallions bathed in Cream

May: Breast of Veal Braised with Green Olives & Tomatoes

July: Tomatoes with Tonnato Sauce

October: Pork Stewed in Guajillo Chile Mole

December: Ginger Spice Cake with Dried Cherries

January: Restorative Beef Broth

You know I’m a huge fan of Hirshheimer photography and she doesn’t disappoint. A look at the photo of Kabocha Squash Pie and you want to stick your finger in the whipped cream.

 

 

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