Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 29, 2011 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

I have a soft spot for spices and herbs. My pantry runneth over with jars of juniper berries, cardamom pods and curry blends. When I discover a new spice, my toes tingle. Must. Have. That is how two chiles from Turkey ended up on my doorstep.

By now you’ve heard the Gilt Groupe, a online shopping company specializing in discounted luxury fashion merchandise, launched Gilt Taste earlier this year. A portal for unique, luxury food finds, Gilt Taste recently added wine to their collection of meats, seafood, cheese, produce and pantry items.

What is remarkable about this endeavor is the addition of an online magazine to accompany the shopping portal. Former Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl heads up the editorial portion of the site. Articles, videos and recipes from a stable of respected contributors add value to the shopping experience through great storytelling. Recipes related to the products for sale, either directly or indirectly, encourage readers to buy.

Gourmands with deep pockets can find a treasure trove of ingredients to showcase in their designer kitchens. The well-heeled can order a complete kit for serving American Paddlefish caviar ($222) before presenting antelope rib racks ($330 for two racks), perhaps roasted and sauced with a demiglace made with black truffle juice ($112).

As luxurious as some of the Gilt Taste offerings are, there are plenty of items to splurge on that don’t require a silver spoon trust fund or a winning lottery ticket.

I have neither a slush fund nor lottery luck, but I did spring for two jars of Turkish chiles through Gilt Taste for $6.95 each.

The chiles are packaged by the Whole Spice company, and off-point, it drives me crazy they spell chile “chili.” Chile with an “e” is the preferred modern spelling for a pepper, and chili with an “i” is a bowl of stewed meat, spiced with chiles. Nitpicking aside, I love my new spices.

Urfa is a dark red chile named after the Turkish town where it is grown. The ripe peppers are picked and dried in the sun during the day, then wrapped in cloths to sweat overnight, which intensifies the flavor and gives the chile a deep purple, almost black, color. This sun-drying-night-sweating process continues for about a week before the chiles are ready for crushing. The crush on Urfa chiles is coarse because the chiles are too moist and oily to grind fine.

The aroma consists of notes of blackberries, with whiffs of chocolate and tobacco. The taste is fruity and earthy, and the heat level is probably 4, maybe 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. Use it as a rub for beef (or antelope), or sprinkle on sliced tomatoes. You can even use it in desserts: sprinkle over ice cream or drop a tablespoon in a brownie mix.

Chile Marash is also moist, high in essential oils, although it is only sun-dried, not wrapped for night sweating. The color is bright red-orange and it reminds me of Aleppo, although it isn’t as smoky as Aleppo. Moderately hot, Marash is often mixed with olive oil and lemon juice and zest and rubbed on meats and poultry. Sprinkle it on hummus or on a sliced cucumber salad, and yes, it works in sweet applications, too.

After I ordered the chiles, I realized that I could have gone directly to the Whole Spice website and ordered them there. I would have saved a couple bucks. But here’s the thing: I never would have found chile Urfa or chile Marash if I hadn’t surfed through Gilt Taste.

And I would have missed the great stories the Gilt editorial team pulls together, stories that make me linger on the site, toggling between window shopping and words.

Details:

http://gilttaste.com

Whole Spice crushed Urfa $6.95
Whole Spice crushed Marash $6.95
Shipping for two jars $5.95

By Linda Avery | AUGUST 21, 2011 | BEEF

Editor’s note: Linda Avery returns with a review of Tessa Kiros’s new Greek cookbook. See what she thought of the book and the get the recipe for papoutsakia, a dish meaning “small shoes” — eggplants stuffed with a savory beef filling.

Food from Many Greek Kitchens
by Tessa Kiros
photos by Manos Chatzikonstantis

Facts: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, 336 pages, $35.00 (or Amazon at $23.10)
Photos: About 150
Recipes: 121
Give to: Greekophiles, cooks who love Greek flavors

When I saw Food from Many Greek Kitchens by Tessa Kiros, it quickly brought to mind Kiros’ 2009 book Falling Cloudberries: A World of Family Recipes. From my first glance at that book, I was totally enamored with its beauty and I fantasized about the experiences of this author. What was it like to be born in London to a Finnish mother and a Greek-Cypriot father? Moving to South Africa, Australia and Mexico before marrying and settling in Tuscany? Ugh. I felt so plain, so inadequate, so my-youth-was-spent-in-a-closet. But my spirits were buoyed when I could share in her experience through tasting her Ricotta Tart with a Chocolate Crust recipe. All was forgiven.

Where “Cloudberries” captured recipes from her heritage and world travels, Food from Many Greek Kitchens focuses on the land of her father. When I pick up a cookbook, I go to contents and get a lay of the land before moving through the book, but not with this one. Photos abound!  There are as many mesmerizing slice of life/travelogue photographs as recipe photos. Even the food shots have wonderfully distracting backgrounds or objects accompanying them.

The structure is interesting. Recipes are divided into traditional foods, fasting foods, Easter foods, shared foods, and so on. Her headnotes are warmly personal whether educational, instructive, or speaking of the friend from whom she received the recipe. There is a mouthwatering photo of a pan of baklava cut ready for serving with a clove in the center of each baklava diamond. Kiros’ headnote begins “I love this Chanel bag-looking thing.” OMG – now I’ll never look at a Chanel bag without craving dessert (as opposed to the money it would take to buy one).

Some recipes require time and others are as simple as watermelon with feta. Moussaka is a favorite of mine but making a recipe for 12 doesn’t work for me. This individual serving recipe was very appealing (I even cut it in half).  So go to the farmers market and grab eggplant, red onion and Italian parsley. Kefalotiri is a rather salty sheep’s milk (hard) cheese. If you can’t find it, Pecorino is a reasonable substitute.

Papoutsakia (Small Shoes)

Serves 8

These are basically the same ingredients as moussaka, but prepared differently and served in individual “shoe servings.”

photo © by Manos Chatzikonstantis

Ingredients

4 long eggplants (about 9 ounces each), all of the same dimensions
About 1/2 cup olive oil

1 large red onion, chopped
14 ounces ground beef
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 cup red wine
2 14-ounce cans crushed tomatoes
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the béchamel
3 tablespoons butter
7 tablespoons all-purpose flour
10 1/2 ounces milk, heated
A large pinch of nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons shredded Kefalotiri cheese

Method
1. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise, sprinkle the cut sides with salt and leave them upside-down in a colander for half an hour or so to drain away any bitter juices.

2. Drizzle some oil into a large non-stick skillet over medium heat and when hot, add half the eggplant halves. Fry until deep golden and soft on both sides and when you prick the thickest part with a fork there is no resistance.

3. Remove to a platter and fry the remaining eggplant halves. When cooled, scoop out the flesh using a sharp spoon, leaving a 1/4- to 3/8- inch border. Chop the flesh and put aside. Wipe out the skillet. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil to it and sauté the onion until golden. Add the beef and fry until browned. Add the garlic, cook for a moment more until it smells good, then add the wine and let it simmer for a minute or two. Add 1 can of tomatoes and the parsley, and season with salt and pepper.

4. Cook, stirring a couple of times, for about 20 minutes, or until thickened. Add the chopped eggplant and simmer for another 10 or 12 minutes, or until most of the liquid has gone.

5. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Make the béchamel
1. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat and stir in the flour. Whisk the milk in gradually to ensure no lumps. Add the nutmeg and season with salt and a little pepper. Whisk until thick.

Finish the dish
1. Empty the remaining can of tomatoes over the bottom of a 10 1/2 x 13 1/2-inch roasting dish and add a little salt. Line up the eggplant shells on top, cut side up, and sprinkle with salt.

2. Divide the meat mixture among them. Dollop 2 to 3 tablespoons of béchamel on each, scatter some kefalotiri over and pour 1/2 cup of water around them. Bake until roasty (sic) and golden on top, about 30 minutes.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 14, 2011 | BEVERAGES

I was shaken, like countless others this week, by the sudden, tragic loss of a young husband who left behind a young wife and two small children.

The food community has come to Jennifer Perllio’s rescue through words and pictures and pie.

Lots of pie. Pie for Mikey.

Just look at the response to Jennifer’s request to make a peanut butter pie for Mikey on foodgawker, TasteSpotting and The Food Network. And don’t miss this touching video by Todd & Diane from White on Rice Couple.

The food community has wrapped their collective arms around one of their own and shown an extraordinary level of compassion.

Food is love. It’s meant for sharing, for healing and for showing how much we care. It’s for nourishing the soul as much as it is for nourishing the body.

When it comes to matters of the heart, I am extremely private. I am not a group-hug-kind-of-girl. I can count my close friends on one hand, and one of those is my loving husband of 22 years.

But today, Jennifer doesn’t have her husband of 16 years. The only thing I can do, for now, is tell her that I care, that I’m thinking of her, and tell her that I made this smoothie for her … and for him.

And then I’ll hug my husband, as she asked, “like there’s no tomorrow.”

Peanut Butter & Chocolate Smoothie

For Jennifer, in memory of Mikey, with love

Ingredients:

Peanut Butter Layer:
1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt
2 tablespoons peanut butter
1 tablespoon honey
Chocolate Layer:
1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt
1 tablespoon cocoa
Garnish:
1 teaspoon finely chopped peanuts
1 teaspoon finely chopped semisweet chocolate

Method:

1. Place 1/2 cup low fat vanilla yogurt, peanut butter and honey in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour in a glass.
2. Place 1/2 cup low fat yogurt and cocoa in the blender and blend until smooth. Pour chocolate layer over the peanut butter layer.
3. Sprinkle top of smoothie with peanuts and chocolate.

Serves 1

 

 

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 07, 2011 | TRAVEL EATS

Boulder, Colorado topped a recent poll as “Happiest Place To Live.” Pollsters surmised fitness and healthy eating factored into why Boulder residents are ecstatic.

Perhaps, but I think it might have more to do with the breakfast fare at Lucile’s and Foolish Craig’s.

Sure, you can get a healthy bowl of granola at both places, but with miles of hiking surrounding Boulder, you might need a few more calories before hitting the trails.

Here are some picks for building up sustenance before lacing up your hiking boots.

Lucile’s

Porch seating for the cheery Victorian house one block north of downtown is at a premium on cool summer mornings, and by 8 o’clock on a Saturday, Lucile’s tiny patio is packed.

Inside, several dining rooms add charm to the Creole flavored dishes like pain perdu (below, left), a French baguette sliced at an angle, dipped in egg and seared on a griddle.

Lucile’s is just as famous for mile-high buttermilk biscuits (above, right), baked in a large sheet pan and cut into squares, served with foil-wrapped butter pats and homemade strawberry jam.

Eggs Pontchatrain, named after the lake that borders New Orleans, is two poached eggs with Béarnaise sauce served over spiced, pan-fried trout with thin grits. I love the old-school garnish of a sprig of parsley.

Foolish Craig’s Cafe

Artsy, funky Foolish Craig’s is all about crepes, and although crepes aren’t the only things on the breakfast menu, they caught the attention of the Diners, Drive-ins & Dives crew, who featured the Pearl Street icon last March.

The namesake crepe is stuffed with bacon (of course), sauteed mushrooms, potatoes, roasted red peppers, and topped with eggs your way (scrambled anyone?) and chunky salsa.

The green chile burrito may not get as much love as the crepes, but it’s respectable, if not nearly spicy enough.

Scrambled eggs, black beans and roasted potatoes fill the flour tortilla and a mild green chile pork stew is ladled on top of cheddar cheese.

The side of creamy grits is better than respectable, and in fact, Craig needs to teach Lucile the proper way to whip up a batch of grits.

Now, you tell me, what would make you a happy camper: one of these hearty breakfast plates or a bowl of granola?

Details:

Lucile’s
2124 14th Street, Boulder, CO
luciles.com

Foolish Craig’s Cafe
1611 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO
foolishcraigs.com

By Gwen Ashley Walters | AUGUST 02, 2011 | NEWS & NIBBLES

It’s no secret Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ in Cave Creek, Arizona churns out lip-smacking, toe-tapping, slow-smoked ‘cue.

The walls of the urban cowboy joint are plastered with press articles from every news outlet in the Valley, including a few mentions from me.

When Grub Street was compiling their Big-City Barbecue: 101 Places to Satisfy Your Urban ‘Cue Craving, they kindly asked me to name the best BBQ dish in Phoenix.

Although we have more than one rockin’ BBQ joint in the Valley, I had to pick just one.

Just one?

So, if you’re not lucky enough to live in the desert oasis of the Phoenix Valley, and eat at Joe’s or Bryan’s or Stacy’s on a regular basis, and I have to point you to one single BBQ dish?

Oh, alright. If you insist, then fine: don’t miss the pork spare ribs from Bryan’s BBQ, which I said were “…the perfect amalgamation of smoke, spice, heat, and chew” … and I meant it.

Read the full Grub Street report on all 101 joints from coast to coast and then saddle up and hit the road.

It’s time for some serious ‘cue, and it’s always time for a road trip.

Details:
Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ
6130 East Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek
480-575-7155
bryansbbq.com

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