Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 28, 2010 | APPETIZERS

Towers of food, if done tastefully, are still in style.

Even though this dish is stunning, the best part is the fresh taste, especially if you splurge on the crabmeat and buy only the best. OK, so it takes a little prep time, but the presentation is worth it, and you can make these up to 8 hours in advance, if you leave them in the mold. Otherwise the avocado will start to turn brown.

Blue crab is easy to find along the East Coast and the Gulf of Mexico near Florida, but other lump crabmeat will work in this dish, too, like Dungeness, if you happen to live on the West Coast.

Just promise me you won’t use that canned stuff on the grocery shelf near the canned tuna.  Any specialty grocery store or butcher shop will have access to top quality crab, and I’ve even discovered a quality brand of canned pasteurized crab called Phillips.  It’s sold through some of the large price warehouse clubs, like Costco.

Chilled Blue Crab Tower with Lemon Crème Fraîche

(recipe from my cookbook, Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook)

Serves 4

Ingredients
For the tower

1/2 pound cooked lump crabmeat
1/4 cup olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup fresh chopped mint
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (6 ounces) yellow tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 (7-ounce) avocado, peeled and chopped
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion
1/2 cup spicy sprouts (like radish)
4 molds*

For the garnish
4 slices sourdough bread, 1/2-inch thick
1 tablespoon butter
Freshly ground black pepper
Lemon Crème Fraîche (recipe follows, make at least 1 day in advance)
Zest of another lemon (zest at the last minute)
4 mint springs

Method
1. Mix crabmeat with olive oil, lemon zest, and chopped mint. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Season the chopped tomato with salt and pepper to taste.  Sprinkle the chopped avocado with the lemon juice and gently toss.

3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or plastic wrap. Spray the molds with nonstick spray and place on the lined sheet.  Layer the ingredients in this order, packing each layer tight with the back of a spoon before adding the next:

2 tablespoons tomato
2 tablespoons crabmeat
2 tablespoons avocado
1 tablespoon sweet onion
2 tablespoons crabmeat
2 tablespoons sprouts

4. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. May be made up to 8 hours in advance.

5. Cut the sourdough slices into decorative shapes with a cookie cutter (I used a small star).  Brush cut bread with melted butter and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. Toast until golden brown.  May be prepared 1 day in advance.  Store at room temperature in an airtight container.

6. To serve, place a crab mold in the center of a plate. Carefully remove the mold, running a thin knife blade along the inside of the mold to loosen, if necessary. Place a dollop of Lemon Crème Fraîche next to the tower, or place in a squeeze bottle and zigzag on the plate. Garnish with toasted sourdough, freshly ground black pepper, a pinch of lemon zest, and a sprig of mint.

*I used empty tomato sauce cans (8-ounce size), both ends removed, washed, and dried for this recipe.

Lemon Crème Fraîche

There’s nothing quite like a homemade crème fraîche, though you could fake it with sour cream thinned with a splash of cream. This makes more than you need for the recipe, but you’ll find other uses for it, including topping baked potatoes.

Makes 1-1/2 cups

Ingredients
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons buttermilk
3 lemons

Method
1. Stir cream and buttermilk together in a clean bowl or sanitized jar. Cover bowl or close jar and allow mixture to sit at room temperature until thickened. This could take anywhere from 12 to 24 hours, depending upon how warm you kitchen is.

2. After mixture is thickened, zest 3 lemons and finely chop the zest (save the lemons for another use).  Stir zest into crème fraîche and refrigerate, covered, until chilled.  Store covered in the refrigerator, up to 1 week.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 18, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Note from Chef Gwen: The multi-talented Linda Avery delivers another solid cookbook review for Pen & Fork. I have Giuliano Hazan’s The Classic Pasta Cookbook on my shelf, and just ordered this one.


Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 Quick and Easy Recipes

by Giuliano Hazan






Facts: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2009, hardcover, 176 pages, $27.50 (or Amazon at $18.15)

Photos: About one out of four recipes have finished dish photos

Recipes: 100

Give to: Busy people who aren’t worried about carbs, Italophiles and beginning cooks (Hazan is an award-winning teacher)

Reviewed by Linda Avery:

Pete Wells, New York Times Dining Editor, writes a column in the Sunday NYT magazine section, usually sharing cooking adventures with his five year-old son Dexter.

Dexter is amazingly curious about food and inventive. It’s charming, real, and along with Dexter, I usually learn something.

In an article titled The Boiling Point (December, 2009) Wells quotes from Edouard de Pomiane’s (1875-1964) French Cooking in Ten Minutes: Adapting to the Rhythm of Modern Life

“The first thing you must do when you get home before you take off your coat is go to the kitchen and light the stove. . . . “Next, fill a pot large enough to hold a quart of water. Put it on the fire, cover it and bring it to a boil. What’s the water for? I don’t know, but it’s bound to be good for something, whether in preparing your meal or just making coffee.”

I found it curious because I never gave thought to anyone needing a time-saver in the 1930’s.

But the reference immediately came to mind when I saw Giuliano Hazan’s Thirty Minute Pasta book.

Why? Because each recipe begins with “fill a pot for the pasta with about 6 quarts of water, place over high heat…”

Hazan is the consummate educator. In 2007, he was named Cooking Teacher of the Year by the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and is the author of four cookbooks (not to mention he is the son of prolific Italian cookbook author, TV cooking teacher Marcella Hazan).

Considering Giuliano Hazan’s educational background, it’s not surprising his newest book opens with a glossary of pastas, giving a translation of the name (cavatappi means corkscrew) and suggesting the type of sauce it is best suited for (“their twisted shape wraps itself around chunky vegetable sauces.”)

I patted myself on the back a couple pages later when a quick inventory showed I had everything he suggested for a pasta pantry. Maybe you do, too.

His recipes include soups with pasta, seafood, vegetarian and meat pasta dishes, but unfortunately no pasta salads (does standing in front of the refrigerator’s door eating leftover pasta qualify as a salad?)

I decided to test the Fettucine with a Savory Veal Sauce for a couple reasons. I couldn’t imagine a savory veal sauce being ready in 30 minutes, and, I’ve never seen green olives incorporated into pasta – it may be a Sicilian practice but my nonna is rolling in her grave watching me do this. (My family came from Le Marche on the Adriatic coast).

The tasty recipe came together in the allotted time. I used a quality Italian brand of canned plum tomatoes since I didn’t have great fresh tomatoes.

The green olives are key – they add the necessary kick and balance to the recipe since there is no addition of cheese.

Photo copyright by Joseph DiLeo

From Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 Quick and Easy Recipes by Giuliano Hazan

Fettuccine with a Savory Veal Sauce

Fettuccine al Sugo di Vitello Saporito

Veal is quite mild and goes very well with green olives, which give it a little kick. I usually cook veal with butter, but olive oil is better suited to olives, so I make this sauce with olive oil but add a little butter at the end when I toss it with the pasta. Half a bouillon cube adds depth of flavor.

Serves 4

1/2 medium yellow onion
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound fresh tomatoes
3/4 pound ground veal
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 large beef bouillon cube
8 large Sicilian-style green olives
10 ounces dried egg fettuccine
1 tablespoon butter

1. Fill a pot for the pasta with about 6 quarts of water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil.

2. Peel the onion and finely chop it. Put the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet, add the chopped onion, and place it over medium heat. Sauté until the onion turns a rich golden color, about 5 minutes.

3. While the onion is sautéing, peel and coarsely chop the tomatoes.

4. When the onion is ready, add the ground veal, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the veal is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the white wine and let it bubble for about 1 minute to evaporate the alcohol. Add the tomatoes and bouillon cube, lower the heat to medium, and continue cooking until most of the liquid the tomatoes release has evaporated, 10 to 12 minutes.

5. While the tomatoes are cooking, slice the flesh of the olives away from the pits and coarsely chop it.

6. When the tomatoes are ready, add about 2 tablespoons salt to the boiling pasta water, add the fettuccine, and stir until all the strands are submerged. Cook until al dente.

7. Add the olives to the sauce and continue cooking over medium heat until the pasta is ready. When the pasta is done, drain well, toss with the sauce and the butter, and serve at once.

Recipe © 2009 by Giuliano Hazan

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 12, 2010 | NEWS & NIBBLES

In The Raw Calendar

Bravo to 14 local chefs (and one brave spouse) for stripping down for charity.

And bravo to Ken & Lee Singh of Singh Farms for generously sharing their special farm as the calendar’s backdrop.

The In The Raw Calendar, unveiled during a private party for the participating chefs and the calendar sponsors yesterday at the beautiful Singh Farms, will go on sale at venues throughout the Scottsdale Culinary Festival starting this week.

The $14.95 calendar (April 2010 through 2011) was shot at Singh Farms, so it was fitting to have the celebratory feast for the uninhibited chefs who posed in the nude for photographer John Ormond.

The attending chefs (all clothed this time) and calendar contributors feasted on a spit-roasted pig, hand-made buffalo sausages, and a dizzying array of side dishes made with the fresh produce of Singh Farms.

A portion of the proceeds will go to the Scottsdale League for the Arts, Camp AZDA (American Diabetes Association) and the American Red Cross’s earthquake relief efforts in Haiti.

One chef even told me that he’s now hitting the gym in preparation for next year’s calendar. Something tells me that once word gets out about this little gem, even more chefs will be willing to bare all for the cause.

Participating chefs:

  • Lee Hillson, T. Cook’s at the Royal Palms
  • Taylor Domet, Heirloom at DC Ranch
  • Comer Smith, Cielo at Hotel Theodore (and his wife Robyn)
  • Aurore de Beauduy, Vogue Bistro
  • Jared Porter, The Parlor
  • Tammie Coe & MJ, Tammie Coe Cakes & MJ Breads
  • Jay Bogsinski (previously of Nine05)
  • Michael Stebner, True Food Kitchen
  • Matt Carter & Rochelle Daniel, Zinc Bistro & The Mission
  • Chris Bailey, Taggia at Firesky Resort
  • Charles Wiley, Cafe ZuZu at the Hotel Valley Ho
  • Payton Curry, Caffe Boa & Caffe Boa Bistro

Kudos to bare-naked chefs and to all who contributed in the production of the calendar, including MMPR Marketing Communications, Vaughn St. Imaging, Woods Lithographics and Bruce Vanderjagt Design.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 08, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

He had me at “Dear chocolate lover,”.

But it is the rest of this story that finally did me in.

I first heard about Claudio Corallo from Kriss Harvey, a pastry wizard who now spends his time consulting with restaurants (like Phoenix’s Restaurant noca) and jetting all over the world to demonstrate the pacojet (a commercial frozen foods machine).

Kriss knows chocolate and he told me that Claudio Corallo chocolate was like no other he had ever tasted.

Really? A special chocolate that I’d never tasted — or even heard of before? Naturally, I had to have some.

I wanted to sample everything, so I ordered “the complete collection,” a $50 package with a sample of every Corallo bar. Single bars of Claudio Corallo sell for $7.50. This isn’t cheap chocolate.

Kriss was right. Claudio Corallo chocolate doesn’t taste like any other chocolate, and I’ve tried many, many high-end chocolates. Valhrona. Callebaut. Vosges. Peter’s. Theo’s. etc.

There is a reason why this chocolate is different — actually many reasons — and as I write this, I’m wondering if those differences might be too much for the average chocolate lover to accept.

The differences between this and other gourmet chocolates start in the field. That’s right, chocolate comes from a tree. Well, cacao beans come from a tree, and cacao beans are processed into chocolate.

Claudio Corallo is one of those rare chocolate producers who manages the process from field to finished chocolate.

His plantation is located on the tiny island off the coast of West Africa called Príncipe, and his chocolate production is performed on the neighboring island of São Tomé.

The Italian-born Corallo holds a degree in tropical agronomy, and owned coffee plantations in Zaire before civil strife in that country forced him to flee to the Democratic Republic of São Tomé.

Once there, Corallo began the process of restoring a dilapidated cacao plantation. He discovered the plantation was home to heirloom cacao trees brought to the island from South America by the Portuguese in the 1800′s.

But caring for the trees is only part of the story. How Corallo processes the cacao from bean to finished chocolate also makes his chocolate unique.

He doesn’t follow the same steps and procedures that most high end chocolate producers do. For example, conching is a grinding step in chocolate production that produces the smooth texture, yet Corallo’s chocolates are not really smooth.

The slight granular texture of his chocolate is by design. He doesn’t grind his beans into a fine dust like most producers.

In fact, the 80% cacao bar is labeled “Sandy,” infused with crystallized sugar that really feels like fine sand on the tongue.

What’s NOT in his finished chocolate is also a distinguishing factor.

Claudio Corallo chocolates have neither vanilla nor soy lecithin (a natural stabilizer), so when you taste the chocolate, you are tasting the very essence of his heirloom cacao beans.

The taste is earthy — intensifying as the percentage of cacao rises (the bars come in 73.5% through 100%, the difference being the amount of sugar added to the pure chocolate.)

The 100% pure chocolate bar contains no sugar. Nothing but 100% cacao. It’s quite shocking to taste.

Most of us, even certifiable dark chocolate lovers, are used to at least some sugar to offset the bitter, pure chocolate. And most of us are also used to eating chocolate that’s been softened with vanilla, even if we can’t actually taste the vanilla.

Claudio Corallo chocolates might be an acquired taste for some. If your idea of the perfect chocolate is silky smooth and creamy, this chocolate might not be for you.

But if you’re the adventurous or curious type and are willing to shell out almost $8 for new kind of chocolate experience, then you should try Claudio Corallo’s unique chocolate.

Order online or check the website to see if there is a retail location near you.


Claudio Corallo
Chocolate from the Source
2122 Westlake Avenue, Seattle WA
206-779-0987
claudiocorallochocolate.com

By Gwen Ashley Walters | APRIL 05, 2010 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

Japanese Cocktails by Yuri Kato

When this Japanese Cocktails book by Yuri Kato arrived on my doorstep a few weeks ago, I learned a few things.

One, I discovered I know very little about sake and shochu. This book opens the door on the topic, but it also underscores that truly understanding sake and shochu requires more than just a cursory glance through a beautiful cocktail book — and it is beautiful.

So does this book make me want to learn more? Yes, it does.

The author says that there are more than 10,000 brands of sake (called nihon-shu in Japan, as sake refers to alcohol in general.) My limited exposure to sake up to this point hasn’t been exactly authentic (sadly, the hot sake at Benihana comes to mind.)

Two, I had no idea that whisky was a big deal in Japan drinking circles. Yet Japan has been distilling whisky since the 1900′s (taught by the Scots, hence the spelling without an “e”.) And one company, Suntory, controls nearly 60 percent of Japan’s whisky market. According to the title page, this edition of Japanese Cocktails was published by Chronicle Books exclusively for Suntory, which explains why many of the recipes specifically call for Suntory brands.

Three, it’s downright impossible to find some of the ingredients needed to make these stunning cocktails in the desert where I live, even though we have two fairly prolific Asian markets (Lee Lee’s and Ranch 99).

That didn’t stop me from drooling over the mouthwatering pictures of drinks like the Yuzu Julep (see below) or Karuizawa Martini, made with fresh raspberries, lychees, umeshu (plum liqueur), shochu and garnished with a fresh rosemary sprig.

Other cocktails just plain pique my foodie interest, like the bubble shooter made with salmon eggs, soy sauce, daiginjo sake and edible gold flakes for a garnish, or the Hotate-zake, a broiled scallop served in a sea shell with hot daiginjo and rosemary.

If you live in a community with a vibrant Asian population, you might not have any trouble finding ingredients like gum syrup (sweeter than simple syrup) or neriume (salty plum paste).

Not all recipes include obscure Japanese ingredients, though, and you can substitute or even improvise a little, says author Yuri Kato.

Ms. Kato is a beverage consultant and the publisher of the popular site, CocktailTimes.com.

She’s a frequent judge on the cocktail competition circuit, both here in the states and abroad. Born in Yokohama, Japan she now splits her time between New York and Denver when she’s not on the competition circuit.

While it’s clear the author knows her stuff, I didn’t walk away from the book with a solid understanding of the differences between the various sakes and shochus.

But I did walk away knowing that these spirits – ergo the cocktails made from them — are less alcohol-intensive, and to me, that means they’re more about the taste than the buzz.

And that just makes me want to taste them. Can you really ask more from a book than that?

Yuzu Julep from Japanese Cocktails by Yuri Kato

Yuzu Julep

from Japanese Cocktails by Yuri Kato

2 oz (60 ml) Yamazaki 12 Year Old

6 Fresh Mint Leaves

1 tsp (5 ml) gum syrup

½ oz (15 ml)

Yuzu Juice

Fresh Mint Spring for Garnish

Muddle mint leaves with gum syrup in a mixing glass. Pour into a short glass with crushed ice.  Add whisky and yuzu juice, garnish with a mint sprig, and serve.

Black Ship from Japanese Cocktails by Yuri Kato

Black Ship

from Japanese Cocktails by Yuri Kato

1 ½ oz (45 ml) Hibki 12 year Old (whisky)

1 oz (30 ml) Pomegranate Juice

¼ oz (7 ml) Port

1 tsp (5 ml) Lemon Juice

Lemon peel for garnish

Mix all ingredients except lemon peel in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a chilled martini glass, garnish with lemon peel and serve.

Japanese Cocktails

by Yuri Kato

Facts: Custom published by Chronicle Books exclusively for Suntory LTD., hardcover, 96 pages, $14.95 (or Amazon at $10.17)

Photos: Stunning full color images of 49 of the 67 cocktail recipes, plus pictures of the Japanese drinking culture and more.

Recipes: 67

Give to: Friends who collect cocktail recipes like you collect recipes,  or to your friend who is fascinated by Japanese culture (I know you have one, we all do).

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