It’s true.

We eat with our eyes first.

Certainly when dining out, the eyes have it.

Of course, the nose really gets bent out of joint about this.

The nose can decide to join the party or it can throw a fit and rebel, which only spoils the party for everyone, including the tongue.

Especially the tongue, who waits patiently while these two yahoos make up their minds.

A particular Indian restaurant in San Francisco has clearly figured this out.

It presents food that is first appealing to the eyes, even though it is the fragrance of their gloriously spiced food that truly boggles the mind.

Frankly, it’s hard to miss the fragrance when you first walk into the restaurant, but — and this is my whole point — until the eyes scope out the scene, the nose can sniff all it wants. What does it look like, baby?

Heady aromas that make you swoon will come to a screeching halt if the food is haphazardly presented as goopy globs on a plate.

Rather than assuming the nose will just get over itself, Amber India decides to placate the eyes first with beautiful presentations of otherwise homey concoctions that only a nose or a mother could love.

Am I wrong?

Of course the real test, the “final answer” so to speak, ultimately belongs to the tongue. But it has to wait, patiently, until the eyes and the nose have rendered their judgments.

So which do you think is more important? The eyes or the nose? Or, are you all about the tongue, eyes and nose be damned?

Tags: Amber India Restaurant, Butter Chicken, eat with eyes first, Lamb Biryani, San Francisco
Posted in Restaurant Journal | 3 Comments »

National Oatmeal Day is in October. Seriously, is there any foodstuff that doesn’t have its own “National fill-in-the-blank-Day?”

In Phoenix, where the average daily temperature in October is 86 degrees, I rarely think about a warm bowl of oatmeal.

Now that we’re in our final stretch of cool days, I’m trying to eat as many warm bowls of oats as I can.

This recipe comes from my cookbook Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook, and is adapted from The Sagamore in upstate New York. While there’s not a lot of golfing going on during these winter days, the resort is serving up plenty of steaming bowls of oatmeal with a twist: a brûléed top.

The crisp burnt sugar topping adds a pleasant bitter sweetness while the nuts and raisins add texture to otherwise dull, flat oats. In fact, feel free to double the amount of raisins and nuts for even more texture. If you don’t like raisins, try dried blueberries, cherries or cranberries.

Sagamore Oatmeal Brûlée

from Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook

If you really want to get decadent, make a crème anglaise (vanilla custard) and spread a couple tablespoons on top of the oatmeal in the ramekins before you sprinkle with sugar and brûlée. I’ve included a recipe for creme anglaise below this recipe. It makes about 2 cups, and you’ll only need about half of it for the oatmeal. I’m certain you’ll find another use for this classic dessert sauce, like pairing it with a dense, rich chocolate cake, perhaps.

Serves 6

Ingredients
5 3/4 cups water
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 cups old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup toasted chopped walnuts
1/4 cup applesauce
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
12 tablespoons brown sugar
Fresh fruit and mint for garnish

Method
1. Heat the broiler to high (see note). Bring the water and salt to a strong boil. Stir in the oats. Reduce heat and cook 7 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Remove from heat and cover. Let rest 5 minutes, or until all the water has been absorbed and the oatmeal is thick and creamy.

3. Fold in the raisins, walnuts, applesauce, maple syrup and cinnamon.

4. Divide the mixture evenly among 6 (8-ounce) ovenproof custard cups. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of brown sugar evenly on top of each cup.

5. Place cups on a baking sheet and place under broiler (about 3 inches from heat) to caramelize the sugar, about 2 to 3 minutes depending upon the heat of your broiler. Watch carefully!

6. Remove from broiler and cool a couple minutes.

7. Using oven mitts, place hot cups onto serving plates. Garnish with fruit and mint.

NOTE: If you have a blow torch, you can brûlée the tops of the cups instead of using the broiler. I’ve tried those small torches sold at kitchen stores and they take forever to caramelize sugar. I bought a regular welder’s torch at ACE Hardware and I’m very comfortable using it to brûlée or to chase unwanted guests out of the kitchen.

Crème Anglaise

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients
1/2 vanilla bean, split, or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup whole milk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup sugar, divided into 1/2 cup portions
5 large egg yolks

Method
1. Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into a saucepan with milk, cream and 1/2 cup sugar. (If using vanilla extract, stir in at the end.) Stir and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Turn off heat when it comes to a boil.

2. Whisk the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar with the egg yolks. Whisk in a little of the hot milk mixture into the yolks to warm them, and then whisk the warmed yolks into the rest of the hot milk mixture.

3. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens, about 8 to 10 minutes. Do not allow the sauce to boil. If you run your finger across the back of a spoon dipped in the sauce, the path your finger creates should stay clean. If the sauce runs through the path, it’s not thick enough and needs to cook a little longer. The term for this consistency is called nappe.

4. Strain the sauce into a bowl and then set that bowl in a larger bowl of ice water to chill completely. Store any unused portion, covered, in the fridge for up to 4 days.

Tags: breakfast, creme anglaise, oatmeal, oatmeal brulee, The Sagamore, vanilla custard sauce
Posted in Breakfast, Breads & Muffins, Recipes | 1 Comment »

I have lots of little baggies in my refrigerator with various spice mixtures I’ve concocted.

I write the name and the date on the bag, but most get used before their time is up (they’ll last about six months, longer if you start with whole spices and toast and grind them first).

When I need something quick to sprinkle on my chicken or pork or shrimp for dinner, I just rummage through the baggies until something grabs me.

I turn to this Moroccan mixture often.

It’s spicy and slightly sweet, thanks to the brown sugar, which I add to all of my spice mixtures.

I like the hint of sweetness, and the sugar helps the crust caramelize when searing or grilling.

The addition of cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg adds an exotic twist to the earthy pepper and cumin flavors.

This Moroccan mixture is especially good on strong flavored proteins, like salmon, tuna and of course, a Moroccan staple, lamb.

Moroccan Spice

Makes 1/3 cup

Ingredients
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika or cayenne
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

Method
1. Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Transfer to a sealable bag and label with the name and date (list ingredients if you want to remember them.)

3. Keeps for about six months in the refrigerator.

Tags: brown sugar, cumin, Moroccan spice blend, salmon, spice mix
Posted in Miscellaneous, Recipes | No Comments »

I’d like to take credit for this idea, but I can’t. I read a story by Jenny from Food52.com about a Flirtini recipe using St. Germain liqueur, and she wrote this:

“you should ask someone who was thinking of buying you some nice chocolate for Valentine’s Day to get you this instead.”

What a brilliant idea. Chocolate is all fine and good, but it’s so predictable. And roses? They die. Not to mention they don’t taste very good.

But a bottle of St. Germain liqueur? Perfect.

Two other liqueurs I recommend for Valentine’s Day gifts are Domaine de Canton, which a ginger and VSOP cognac infusion, and Godiva’s Mocha liqueur, which to me, tastes far better than their original chocolate liqueur.

I love cooking with liqueurs, and St. Germain is most unusual. Made from the essence of elderflowers harvested from the French Alps, it has a unique aroma and taste, with hints of pears, honey and floral notes. And did I mention it was French? Ooh-la-la.

Of course it makes lovely cocktails but you can do more than just mix elixirs.

Here are just a few ideas for the St. Germain and the Domaine de Canton (just pour a glass of the Godiva and sip it while you ponder these liqueur cooking options):

1. Reduce it to a syrupy consistency and drizzle over vanilla ice cream or fresh fruit.

2. After sauteing chicken breasts, deglaze the pan with it and then swirl in cold butter to make an infused beurre blanc sauce.

3. Whisk in a couple tablespoons to a white wine vinaigrette to serve over a pear and mixed green salad.

4. Fold a couple tablespoons into whipped cream or caramel sauce

5. Mix with fresh goat cheese and serve with crackers

6. Add a tablespoon to perfume cooked rice.

If you must deliver the requisite bouquet and box of chocolates, by all means do.

But think about sweetening the deal with a bottle of nectar.

You’ll come out smelling like a rose.

Tags: Domaine de Canton, foodie gifts, ginger liqueuer, Godiva, liqueurs, St. Germain, Valentine's Day gifts
Posted in Book & Product Reviews | 3 Comments »

Some friends and I recently dropped by Elizabeth’s house and as we caught up on who was doing what in the Valley, I nibbled on a bowl of nuts on the counter in her earth-friendly “green” kitchen.

As my second handful of nuts went down, I stopped talking — because something extraordinary was going on in my mouth. Flavors were swirling and I was distracted by the song and dance flitting across my tongue.

You may be wondering who Elizabeth is.

She founded The Scottsdale Culinary Institute in 1989 (and sold it nine years later). I count my lucky stars to have attended the school when it was still under Elizabeth’s watchful eye, with small class sizes and dedicated chef-instructors.

Elizabeth thinks of all SCI graduates as her “kids” even though some of those “kids” weren’t technically kids when they attended her school.

“What did you put in these nuts?” I asked.

“Oh, they’re so easy it’s silly,” she said and waved me off. I begged her to share the flavors because I couldn’t stop eating them.

“Just some brown sugar, red pepper flakes, salt and whatever herbs and spices you feel like,” she said. “And an egg white. That’s it.”

Elizabeth’s herb and spice combination was coriander, fennel and fresh rosemary. I didn’t have fresh rosemary handy, so I substituted the mandarin orange dust I wrote about here.

You can use any herbs or spices you feel like, just keep the brown sugar, red pepper flakes and salt constant.

The amazing thing about these almonds is that there is no added fat. None. Zippo.

So the only fat is what’s in the nuts. One ounce of almonds contains…oh, never mind. It sounds like a really big number for two tablespoons of nuts.

Just know that it’s much, much less than the same amount of macadamia nuts and nut fats are among the healthiest fats. If you must know, go here.

An egg white whisked with the spices is all the binding these nuts need.

The almonds will be all shiny when folded into the spiced egg white.

Spread them in a single layer and roast until the egg white is dry to the touch and the almonds smell toasted.

The nuts lose their shiny coat after roasting. As tempting as the smell may be, wait until they cool to serve them — they taste much better when they have time to cool and crisp up.

Elizabeth says she always has a tin of nuts on the counter, just in case anyone happens to drop by.

Like a car full of former students.

Elizabeth’s Spice Roasted Almonds

Adapted from Elizabeth Leite

Makes 3 cups

Ingredients
3 cups raw almonds
1 egg white
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes*
2 teaspoons crushed fennel seeds (use a mortar and pestle)
2 teaspoons crushed coriander seeds (or ground)
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon coarse flake sea salt (or kosher salt)

Method
1. Heat the oven to 300° F. Spread the almonds in a single layer on a lined baking sheet.

2. Roast for 15 minutes. Remove from oven (leave oven on) and cool for 10 minutes.

3. Whisk the egg white until frothy and then whisk in the remaining ingredients (brown sugar through salt).

4. Fold in the cooled nuts and toss until evenly coated.

5. Spread the nuts on the baking sheet and return to oven for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring once halfway through. The nuts are done when the egg white is dry to the touch and the nuts smell toasted.

6. Cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

*I find that 2 teaspoons of red pepper flakes is just enough to give you a noticeable, throat-warming kick. Use less (or more) depending upon your personal heat preference.

Tags: almonds, coriander, fennel seeds, how to roast nuts, mandarin dust, roasted nuts, rosemary, spiced nuts
Posted in Appetizers, Recipes | 7 Comments »

Image courtesy T. Cook's

No doubt, T. Cook’s at The Royal Palms resort is one of the most beautiful dining settings in all of Phoenix.

It has a full rack of awards from  AAA (Four Diamond, 2004 – 2009) and Wine Spectator and more than once has captured “most romantic” and “best splurge” from local media reader polls.

Like most high-end resorts, the dining is a little pricey, but last October, Chef Lee Hillson introduced his “value combo” lunch menu in order to boost lunch sales.

Granted, $14 (+ tip) isn’t ever going to be confused with “cheap lunch” but it’s an affordable way to experience a couple different items on the always topnotch T. Cook’s menu.

While chewing on warm, rustic Simply Bread dipped in fresh pesto sauce, I counted 72 options between the various soups, salads, sandwiches and house made pizzas. That’s a dizzying array of choices.

Even though the portions are half sizes (or 2 fat pizza slices if you order pizza), there’s plenty of grub to fill even a hungry, underfed food writer.

I couldn’t resist the “BLT” braised Kurabuta pork with vine ripened tomatoes and peppery arugula on a toasted ciabatta roll, dressed up with a mustard aïoli.

The iceberg wedge I paired with the BLT got an extra boost of flavor from grilling. Topped with slightly charred red onions and candied walnuts, it’s drizzled with a blue cheese dressing that still managed to have tang despite the creaminess.

My companion chose a soup/pizza combination. The “house” pizza is topped with house made pepperoni, tangy tomato sauce, house pulled mozzarella and juicy, slow roasted tomatoes.

Wilted arugula sits on top. The crust is somewhere between thick and thin, and blistered just enough to add a slight char flavor.

The cup of thick, creamy corn chowder is studded with roasted corn kernels and chucks of potatoes, and has a lovely throat-warming kick from a shot of Tabasco sauce.

A small green salad tossed with a creamy Italian dressing was a bonus palate cleanser.

We could have stopped there, but then we took a look at the dessert menu. Choose three mini desserts from a choice of six for $8 — plenty for two to share.

Milk chocolate mousse with a caramel glaze is silky smooth, but has a crunchy cookie base and is topped with a thin slab of dark chocolate and a roasted hazelnut.

The orange Grand Marnier panna cotta sits atop a poached orange slice and orange cookie with a biscuit-like texture, garnished with a dramatic, brittle tuile triangle.

The chocolate praline, equally dramatic, is a vertical “sandwich” with a milk chocolate caramel ganache and rich chewy brownie sandwiching a tangerine infused white chocolate ganche.

If you’re so inclined, there are six wines by the glass priced at $6, too, including a dry rosé (my favorite wine style).

The gracious service and the gorgeous ambiance, coupled with the “value” lunch combo forms a perfect triangle for a memorable lunch.

T. Cook’s at The Royal Palms
5200 East Camelback Road, Phoenix
602-808-0766

Tags: lunch combo value meals at T. Cooks, Phoenix lunch deals, Royal Palms Hotel, Simply Bread, T. Cook's
Posted in Restaurant Journal | 1 Comment »

What can you do with a cup of leftover, cooked quinoa?

Make pancakes.

Oh sure, we could do any number of things with the “supergrain” (see last post) but folding the protein-rich quinoa into buttermilk pancakes tops our list.

We love fooling ourselves into thinking we’re eating something really healthy.

Quinoa is healthy, so technically, we are improving the nutritional content of these pancakes, right?

That’s our story and we’re sticking to it.

I have no idea why I’m talking “we” when I mean “me.”

Anyway, I started with the buttermilk pancake recipe from The Great Ranch Cookbook, and just folded in a cup of cooked quinoa.

Which immediately deflated the fluffy batter. Oh, well.

So these pancakes aren’t big and fluffy, but they are tender, and now, thanks to the quinoa, they have a more interesting texture.

We love them. (And this time, I do mean we.)

Quinoa Pancakes

Makes 12 (4-inch pancakes)

Ingredients
1 cup flour*
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cups buttermilk (or sour milk**)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup cooked quinoa
3 tablespoons melted butter, divided
Maple syrup

Method
1. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a medium bowl.

2. Whisk the egg, buttermilk and vanilla extract together in a small bowl until well blended.

3. Pour the buttermilk mixture over the flour mixture and stir until just combined.

4. Fold in the quinoa and then fold in 2 tablespoons of melted butter.

5. Heat a nonstick griddle or skillet over medium heat. Brush skillet with reserved melted butter.

6. Ladle scant 1/4 cupfuls of batter onto hot griddle. Cook until bubbles appear on the surface and the edges start to dry about 3 minutes. Flip and cook another couple minutes, until pancakes are cooked through. Keep warm in a low oven.

7. Serve with warm maple syrup.

*If you want to go all crazy-healthy, replace up to half the flour with a whole wheat flour.

**To make sour milk, stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice into milk and let sit a few minutes until thickened.

Tags: buttermilk pancakes, pancakes, quinoa, red quinoa, substitute for buttermilk
Posted in Breakfast, Breads & Muffins, Recipes | 10 Comments »

The Great Ranch Cookbook

Spirited Recipes & Rhetoric from America's Best Guest Ranches

Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook

Culinary Expedition Through World Class Golf Resort Kitchens

The Cool Mountain Cookbook

A Gourmet Guide to Winter Retreats