Vegetables

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 29, 2009 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

I keep a running list of ingredients and dishes I see throughout the year. Some observations come from my travels, some from reading various food publications and some from from talking with other food writers.

I’ve whittled down a very long list to just 16.

Are these sweet 16 trends or fads? Or just temporary blips on the vast food radar screen?

Only time will tell. A fad is a fleeting thing. Trends last longer, and some eventually land in the mainstream (hello chipotle, I’m looking at you).

Without further ado, here are the things that made my Sweet 16:

1. Coconut water — It’s the new “in” drink. It has more potassium than a banana, and all the cool people are sipping it, including food writer Amanda Hesser, who once tweeted that she was sipping coconut water and eating chocolate. And coconut water is showing up as a beverage choice on menus from Portland to Austin.

2. Padron peppers — from pizzas in wine country, to canning jars in Seattle, this Spanish pepper is enticing new fans with its sweet — sometimes hot, sometimes not — flavor.

3. Crispy poached egg — It started in Europe and landed in San Francisco a few years ago. It made it to Phoenix as a signature dish at one of the best restaurants in town, noca.

4. Salted caramel — from candies to cakes to grown-up milkshakes spiked with Bourbon, we love our caramel and if it has a sprinkling of sea salt, all the better.

5. Butter lettuce — Move over Iceberg wedge, butter lettuce is the new darling. Not only are restaurants creating butter lettuce-only salads, but farmers are giving us new varieties, including red leaf butter lettuce.

6. Hibiscus — this flower has moved beyond the herbal tea category and is flavoring other drinks (like agua frescas in noted Mexican restaurants) and desserts (like panna cotta and gelatos and sorbets in non-Mexican venues).

7. Chamomile tea syrup — another flower breaking out of the tea category and moving into dessert sauces and sorbets.

8. Foie gras desserts — I’m hoping this is a fad, not a trend. This year, I saw a foie gras float (foie gras ice cream paired with root beer) and foie gras creme brulee. Ick.

9. Amarena cherries — these expensive Italian dark cherries are popping up in desserts in fancy restaurants as well as modest pizza parlors and cafes.

10. Donuts — gourmet and otherwise, the fried balls of dough are making a comeback, leaving police officers across the country scratching their heads as to why.

11. Marshmallows — who knew they were so easy to make? Not only are restaurants making their own flavors of marshmallows, but home cooks are making them, too, and food bloggers are writing about them.

12. Shiso — the Japanese herb was once relegated to just a garnish for sushi, but now it’s showing up as a garnish for salads, like the heirloom tomato salad at Zuni Cafe in San Francisco.

13. Cardamom — Long used in Indian, Scandinavian and Middle Eastern cooking, cardamom jumped the shark into chewing gum this year in Eclipse Breeze “Extotic Mint.”

14. Home canning — So many new blogs and websites dedicated to the art of home canning popped up this year, along with a few new books.

15. Staub serving ware — restaurants from high-end steak houses to cozy French Bistros moved the cast iron cooking ware from the kitchen to the table. Speaking of French Bistros…

16. French Bistros — if you don’t count the new restaurants opening under the “local, seasonal, farm-fresh” category, French Bistros would have been the number one new restaurant theme.

Now, you may be wondering why bacon isn’t on the list.

Well, that horse left the barn in 2008, and in 2009, bacon-mania hit mainstream in a big way (remember baconnaise?)

I’m sure I left out some things (this is only 16 out of a possible gazillion).

Does anything on the list surprise you? What else would you add?

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 20, 2009 | RECIPES

June Taylor products are hot, hot, hot. Sizzling hot.

Seems everywhere I turn, I’m seeing them in a magazine, on a newsflash, or on my doorstep.

I can explain that last one. I ordered three of JT’s products because, as it has been well documented here and there, I can’t seem to stay away from gourmet items.

I ordered Quince Butter ($14), Candied Bergamot Peel ($12) and Rose Geranium Syrup ($18) after spotting June Taylor’s products in the Food 52 Shop (both a hallowed and dangerous place for people like me.)

I wanted to make something using all three products, but after tasting each of them, I realized that was too ambitious, even for me.

Sometimes chefs have the tendency to wrap too many flavors together, when really, less is more.

So I settled on the quince butter and the bergamot, combined with sweet potatoes. I’ll save the syrup for another post. It needs something simple to let its unique flavor shine through.

Roasting sweet potatoes is one of the easiest preparations, so that’s where I started. I wanted to make a sauce from the quince butter and then top the mixture with the bergamot peel.

Pretty straightforward. Simply peel the sweet potatoes, and cut them into 1-inch rounds.

Layer them in a buttered baking dish, preferably one that can go from oven to table, like this pretty Emile Henry.

The bergamot orange (which is yellow in color, not orange) is small, very acidic, and used mainly for its essential oil (in the peel) in everything from perfume to confections to tea — Earl Grey tea, specifically.

I steeped 1 bag of Earl Grey in a small amount of water, making a strong tea, in essence, to enhance the sauce, thinking it would tie the quince butter and bergamot peel topping together.

The tea went into a small saucepan with the quince butter and some real butter. There is no butter in fruit butters coming from a jar. They’re called “butter” because the fruit is cooked down to a thick puree that can be spread, like soft butter.

Wanting to keep the flavors from becoming too muddled, I resisted the temptation to throw in a bunch of spices, although you certainly could. You could throw in some booze, too, and normally, I would have, but it was early and I wasn’t thinking straight, so I didn’t.

I did throw in a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg because, well, I couldn’t resist the urge completely.

The quince butter, tea and real butter boil together just long enough to thicken and meld together. I really should have added some brandy or Grand Marnier; what was I thinking? Instead, I tarted it up with a splash of apple cider vinegar.

The thickened fruit butter mixture is spread over the sweet potatoes and then the pan goes into the oven.

You should know that the sauce is sparten on purpose. You could increase the quantities a bit if you want lots of sauce after roasting, but again, I was showing restraint, still wanting the flavor of the sweet potatoes to come through.

I promise this need for restraint will pass.

While the mixture is bubbling away in the oven, I chopped the bergamot peel — finely — with a knife. I tried to use my mini-food processor, but I was only successful in knocking off the sugar coating. The peel resisted the blade. Guess I wasn’t the only one resisting today.

A chef’s knife and a little elbow grease soon made mincemeat out of the tough, fragrant peel.

To add a bit of texture, I chopped some toasted pecans to sprinkle on top along with the chopped bergamot.

Now the dish can go to the table, in its pretty baking dish, for everyone to ooh and ahh over. Visually appealing, yes, but for me, it’s the taste that deserves cooing.

From the earthy sweet potatoes to the tart quince butter to the unique taste of the bergamot, this dish brings a little sophistication and a lot of complex flavors from just a few, simple, expensive, gourmet products.

But you’re worth it, aren’t you?

Roasted Sweet Potatoes
with Quince Butter and Bergamot Peel

Serves 4 or 5

Ingredients
1 Earl Grey tea bag
1/3 cup boiling water

2/3 cup June Taylor Quince Butter
1 tablespoon butter (+ 1 teaspoon for buttering pan)
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Pinch of nutmeg

2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/3 cup chopped toasted pecans
2 tablespoons finely chopped bergamot peel

Method
1. Heat the oven to 375º F.

2. Steep the Earl Grey tea in the 1/3 cup boiling water and set aside for 5 minutes. Discard tea bag and pour tea into a small saucepan with the quince butter, real butter, vinegar and pinch of nutmeg. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

3. Butter a large baking dish with a teaspoon of softened butter. Lay the sweet potatoes in a single layer, fitting in as many rounds as you can.

4. Pour the reduced quince butter mixture over the top and spread evenly with a spatula. Cover with foil and place in the oven. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the potatoes are almost but not quite fork tender. Remove the foil and continue roasting for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork tender.

5. Remove from oven and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Now sprinkle with pecans and bergamot peel and serve.

NOTE: Let’s just say, for example, you don’t have June Taylor’s products on hand, but you like the idea of this dish. You can substitute the quince butter with apple butter, and the candied bergamot peel with regular candied orange peel.

18
Dec

Celeriac

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 18, 2009 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

Don’t panic. I haven’t gone rogue with all these healthy vegetable posts. I’ll do something decadent before the month’s over.

In the meantime, I present to you: celeriac (also called celery root, celery knob, or just plain old ugly vegetable).

It’s gnarly. Bad-to-the-bone. And… and… mild.

That’s right. Beneath the grisly skin is a pale, mottled muse. It tastes like a cross between mild celery and parsley, with a texture like a raw turnip.

Now, I’m not fond of turnips — raw or cooked — although I can choke down honey-glazed roasted turnips, especially if they’re scented with lavender. But that’s another post for another time.

The point is, don’t let the turnip texture turn you against celeriac, because it really is a delicate, delicious vegetable.

It takes some peeling to get that grisly skin off. Start by slicing off the top, and then slice off the bottom. That’s where you’ll find deep crevices that seem to never end.

Just keep slicing until all signs of grooves are gone.

You’ll get there. Now you can slice it however you want. You can even grate it. It depends on how you want to eat it.

You might want to slice them into rounds and broil or steam them.

You can eat them plain, or drizzled with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Or, once cooked, you can turn them into a puree or a soup.

Or you might want to cut them into matchsticks (julienne cut) and toss them in a salad with apples, or stir fry them with carrots and mushrooms.

Or you might want to dice them, and mix them in a seafood salad, or chopped vegetable salad.

Celeriac is in season now (October through April).

It does turn brown (oxidation) after peeling, so keep it covered in acidulated water (water + a squeeze of lemon juice or splash of vinegar) until your ready to use it.

Looking for Recipes? Try these:

Celery Root Gratin from Leite’s Culinaria

Celery Root Salad from Simply Recipes

Celeriac, Pear and Stilton Soup from CD Kitchen

Do you have a recipe for celeriac? Leave a link in the comments to share.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 16, 2009 | BOOK & PRODUCT REVIEWS

What do you get the cook on your list who already has the perfectly appointed kitchen?

1. Pretty print baking cups from Sur La Table. $6.00.

Got a baker on your list? Give them these wild baking liners for their exotic muffins and cupcakes. Grrrrrrh….

2. Tortoise rimmed onion goggles from Chef Tools. $18.99.

Don’t laugh. They work and could be considered stylish…sort of…at least more stylish than my lime green rimmed ones.

3. Oval-shaped ice cream scoop from Globe Equipment Company. $15.67.

It’s how top restaurants scoop their perfectly shaped oval ice creams and sorbets.

4. Chocolate spatula with built-in thermometer from Chef’s Catalog. $18.95.

Serious chocolate makers know that tempering chocolate creates a uniform sheen and perfect snap. Tempering requires stirring heated chocolate to cool it to a precise temperature, which is different for each type of chocolate (dark, milk, white). The thermometer on this stirring spatula is labeled with that perfect temperature.

5. Burn Cream MD from Amazon.com. $23.96.

No cook worth his or her salt has ever escaped a burnt finger, palm or arm. This cream takes the sting away and helps with healing.

Happy shopping. Who knows, you might find something for yourself, too.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | DECEMBER 13, 2009 | HOW TO...

Do not adjust the color on your monitor. That cauliflower is indeed, that yellow. It’s called a “cheddar cauliflower.”

You’d think I wouldn’t care for cauliflower since it’s in the same family as Brussels sprouts. But so is kale, and I love kale.

I must like cauliflower. I keep writing about it.

I especially like this orangey-yellow cheddar cauliflower. Not because it tastes dramatically different than white cauliflower — it doesn’t. I like it because it’s colorful.

I decided to steam it, puree it, and pair it with sun-dried tomatoes and Parmesan. Cauliflower is bland by itself, so it needs strong flavors to perk it up.

I prefer steaming over boiling when making vegetable purees. Why?

The resulting puree is less watery. Boiled vegetables take on a lot more water than what’s naturally present in the vegetable. Steamed vegetables don’t.

A food processor won’t puree the mixture as smooth as a blender, but you’d need a lot more liquid than what I’m using here to get a blender (even a Vita-Mix) to puree this mixture.

If this was The French Laundry, we’d be pressing this puree through a tamis for an ultra-smooth puree.

Fortunately, it’s just Chef Gwen’s kitchen, and we’re not going to that much trouble. The food processor will do a good enough job.

Minced sun-dried tomatoes with fresh parsley and put a dollop on top. You could mix it right in, but it looks prettier as a garnish. Just because we’re not a top restaurant doesn’t mean we don’t want our food to look good, right?

Either way, it tastes way better than plain old steamed cauliflower. In fact, it tastes just like a fancy-schmancy restaurant side dish.

Pureed Cauliflower with Sun-Dried Tomatoes & Parmesan

Serves 4

Ingredients
1 head cauliflower
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 or 3 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, drained and minced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Method
1. Cut the cauliflower into florets. Steam until tender, about 15-20 minutes.

2. Place florets in a food processor. Pour in stock and puree. Scrape down sides.

3. Sprinkle with Parmesan, drizzle with cream and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Puree again until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice.

4. Return puree to a pan and gently reheat over low heat until hot.

5. Taste and add more salt or pepper if desired. Portion onto four plates and garnish with sun-dried tomatoes and parsley.

 

 

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