Vegetables

28
Jun

Kalua Pork

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 28, 2009 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

It started with a tweet from @ShareYourTable, and a fuzzy shot of a brownie from The Pineapple Room, Alan Wong’s “ladies-who-lunch” spot tucked in the back of Macy’s in Waikiki’s tony Ala Moana Shopping Center.

I tweeted back that the best reason to hop a plane to Honolulu was The Pineapple Room’s Kalua “BLT.”

Hawaiian-Beach

Or maybe the black rock and white sand beaches, or a mai tai on the Halekulani patio, but no, no, really, that pork is worth the trip alone. And voila! The next tweet I got was a link to Share Your Table’s oven-roasted Kalua Pork.

As luck would have it, I had a pork roast in the fridge that was destined for a little achiote paste and sour orange juice, a la cochinita pibil, but I thought, maybe I could do a little Hawaiian hula instead.

Kalua pork, the centerpiece at so many Hawaiian celebrations, is just another version of pulled pork, like the Yucatan’s cochinita pibil or Southern BBQ pulled pork.

Hawaiian-Salt

I happened to have a jar of Hawaiian pink salt, called Alaea, a sea salt that gets its pinkish hue from the red clay where it’s harvested.

I didn’t have the banana leaves the recipe called for to wrap the pork, although these days they aren’t hard to hunt down. Check in the freezer section (or even in the fresh produce section) of Latin or Asian markets.

Liquid-Smoke

I did have a bottle of liquid smoke on hand, a subject that was tweeted back and forth last week, namely “what the heck is it and is it safe to eat?” (Here’s the answer.)

Armed with the essential ingredients, I set about recreating the Kalua Pork recipe from @ShareYourTable, with a few minor adjustments to accommodate what I had on hand, and now, I’m sharing it with you.

Pork-Before

I have to confess that I modified the key ingredient — the pork.

Kalua pork is made with pork butt (also called picnic shoulder). It’s a gloriously fat-laden hunk of swine, but I had a top loin roast in the fridge so that’s what I used. It probably resulted in a slightly drier end product, but I can tell you that it is still lip-smacking delicious.

Pork-Pulled

Oven-Roasted Kalua Pork

(adapted from Share Your Table)

Serves 6

Ingredients
2-1/2 pounds top sirloin pork roast (or, for real decadence, pork butt)
1 tablespoon of Hawaiian Pink Alaea salt (or sea salt or kosher salt)
2 cups water
2 tablespoons liquid smoke
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Heat the oven to 500°F.

2. Rub the pork with the salt and place in a roasting pan. Mix the water and liquid smoke together and pour into the pan (but not over the pork or you’ll wash off the salt.) Cover tightly with foil.

3. Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the oven heat down to 325°F. Roast for 2-1/2 hours. Remove from the oven and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove foil and shred pork with two forks. Sprinkle with black pepper and toss again.

(NOTE: At this point, you can eat it as it is, or mix in your favorite BBQ sauce.)

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 26, 2009 | HOW TO...

Gingerroot (sometimes just referred to as fresh ginger) is a rhizome plant that grows horizontally, with green shoots above ground and knobby stems below. What grows beneath the soil line is what we use in the kitchen. The shoots are generally not sold, although sometimes you might find them at farmers markets with a small knob of the stem attached.

Open my teeny freezer anytime of year and I guarantee you that you’ll find a plastic bag, or two, of ginger. One bag will contain grated ginger, the other sliced coins of ginger.

Ginger1

Why? Because ginger is a secret weapon for flavoring stir fries, rice dishes, coconut milk-based soups and a myriad of other dishes. Its pungent heat also counterbalances strong fish flavors, too, making it a natural flavor component for tuna and salmon.

Invariably, I’ve bought more than I need at any given time, so packaging it up for later is the only sensible thing to do.

I will likely get a visit from the “ginger police” after this comment, but I’m going to say it anyway. I break off  a knob of ginger right there in the grocery store for two reasons. One, I don’t want to buy a piece as big as my hand, but the main reason I do it is because I’m looking for a sign of how fresh the ginger is.

If I see a pale green or gray ring just inside the skin, it means that the ginger’s been sittin’ around awhile. It’s still OK to use, but it won’t be as juicy or sharp as ginger without the “age ring.”

Ginger2

Ginger3

Peeling ginger (which I think is essential but some chefs do not) is best done with a spoon, which scrapes off just the thin skin. It’s a little trick I learned from watching Martin Yan on Yan Can Cook. A few years ago, we were seated next to each other during a cookbook signing – Walters/Yan, alphabetically, you know and Ann Willan was on the other side of me. I was a bit star-struck. Anyway, I thanked Yan for showing me the easiest way to peel ginger, which leaves much more of the flesh than a knife or peeler does. How often do you get to thank one of your favorite PBS cooking stars?

Ginger4

After peeling the ginger, grate it with a microplane or ginger grater or slice it into thin coins. (I use the coins for flavoring broths and steeping with tea.)

Pop the ginger into freezer zipper bags, label with the date and that it’s ginger, lest you forget, and put them in the freezer. The freezer life is about three, maybe four months. Anytime you come across a recipe for fresh ginger, you can use your freezer stash instead of running to the store. I’m not going to lie and say that it is just as good as fresh – it’s not – but it’s beats no ginger, and dry, ground ginger is simply not a substitute for fresh (or frozen) ginger.

Gingerroot (Zingiber officinale)

Uses: culinary and medicinal (aids in digestion, helps with nausea)

Flavor: sharp, peppery

Buy: tight, smooth-skinned knobs

Store: in the refrigerator for a couple weeks or frozen for up to four months


By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 25, 2009 | RECIPES

I bet you thought, by the title, that this post was going to be about fried rice. It is, sort of. Rice will be fried, but not in the way that a traditional, Asian fried rice dish is.

Yes, we’re starting with cooked rice, an egg, of course, and other veggies, but that’s where the similarities end. Today, we’re cooking up rice fritters.

With three cups of leftover rice from the Bamboo Rice post, I thought about making a traditional fried rice dish, but then I stumbled upon Gina DePalma’s charming post on spinach fritters on Serious Eats and I wondered if I could replace the flour with rice, but lots of it.

Yep. It works.

Spinach-Bunch

Gina talks about the virtues of mature, leafy spinach (namely, it tastes like spinach) vs. the bagged (but convenient) baby spinach.

I’m using mature spinach for this recipe, even if it involves a little work, like removing the stems and a couple – or three -  dunks in a water bath to remove the grit.

For our fritters, we need to lightly cook the spinach and squeeze out most of the water so the fritters aren’t soggy. You could use frozen spinach to save a step — just need to thaw and really squeeze out all the water.

Spinach-Cooked

Isn’t it amazing how much spinach shrinks when you add a little heat? Besides the spinach, cooked rice and egg, anything else you want to throw into the mix is totally up to you.

If I were you, I’d include some sort of, what we in the food biz call, “aromatics.” Not sure why we call them aromatics – more appropriately they should be called taste-o-matics – I’m referring to garlic and onions. They do smell good, but flavor is their main purpose.

I used scallions. I also threw in a chopped jalapeno because I like to spice things up a bit, and well, everything tastes better with a jalapeno – not to mention the generous dose of  vitamin C, given the jalapeno’s size.

Spinach-Fritter-Ingredients

The rice, spinach and other goodies go into a large bowl for mixing. I added just a smidgen (don’t you like that word?) of flour to help bind the mixture together, but when I say smidgen, I mean it. One tablespoon of flour for three whole cups of rice qualifies as a smidgen.

Be gentle with the mixing part so that the rice doesn’t become gummy. This is especially important if you are using a naturally sticky cooked rice like the bamboo rice I’m using.

Once it’s all gently mixed, it’s time to portion it out. Remember the ice cream scoop tip I gave you? (#7 on my top ten list of kitchen tools). Now is the time to pull it out of the drawer. I have five or six (maybe nine) different sizes. The #12 scoop is about 1/3 a cup.

(Scoops are sometimes labeled by size, imprinted oh-so-small on the inside of the scoop, on the metal lever that pushes the ice cream out of the scoop. The number refers to the number of scoops in a quart of ice cream.)

Fritter-Scoops

You can prepare the fritters up to this point and just refrigerate for a day if you’d like. If you plan to make these in advance, make sure that all the ingredients are cold before you mix them together to avoid that nasty food borne illness plague that results from foods not properly chilled.

Once they’re fried, you can also reheat them if you have any leftovers. I like to reheat them in a toaster oven at 325°F. for 12-15 minutes. You can use the microwave but say goodbye to that nice little crunchy crust if you do.

Fritters-Frying

Spinach & Rice Fritters

Makes 7 (3-inch) fritters

Ingredients
8 to 10 ounces fresh spinach, trimmed, washed and dried
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cups cooked rice
1 cup sliced scallions (white and light green parts)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 jalapeno, finely chopped, remove seeds for less heat (optional ingredient)
1 tablespoon flour
1 large egg, beaten
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil for frying

Method
1. Wilt spinach in 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat, about 3 or 4 minutes, turning with tongs as it wilts. (My, how it shrinks!) Scrape out into a bowl to cool. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much water as possible (Use paper towels if you’re so inclined). Roughly chop the spinach and place in a large bowl.

2. Stir in the rice, scallions, cheese,  and jalapeno (if using) into the bowl with the spinach. Sprinkle with the flour and fold in the egg, salt and pepper. Scoop into 1/3 cup portions (#12 ice cream scoop works well). Flatten to about 3/4-inch thick.

3. Heat enough oil in a skillet over medium-high heat to cover the bottom by about 1/8-inch. When sizzling hot, add fritters (work in batches so that you don’t overcrowd the pan). Fry until deep golden brown, about 5  to 6 minutes. Turn and brown other side, another 4 to 5 minutes. Remove to drain on paper towels.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 23, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Call me an old-soul, but I’ve always loved dining early. It leaves more of the evening for other things, like going to the movies (or just walking off the meal.)

J & G Steakhouse just unveiled a summer deal that will likely attract all souls: a three-course, prix fixe menu for only $35.

Looking at the menu, I’m thinking of several possible combinations.

1st course:
Heart of romaine Caesar salad
Steamed shrimp salad with Champagne vinaigrette
Sweet pea soup

2nd course:
Grilled black Angus flat iron steak with frites
Slow baked salmon with rhubarb compote
Lemon pepper chicken steak

3rd course:
Warm chocolate cake with caramel ice cream
Cheesecake with strawberry jam and rhubarb ice cream
Cinnamon Ice cream or any other number of flavors (oh, please let coconut be one of the flavors!)

This summer bonanza is available in the dining room seven evenings a week, from 5 p.m to 7 p.m.  It’s too light outside to enjoy the twinkling, city-lights view, but at that price, stick around for an after dinner drink just to watch the sun go down.

Visit www.jgsteakhousescottsdale.com to make a reservation.

21
Jun

Bamboo Rice

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 21, 2009 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

My mother was a sucker for new food products. Finding a Sunday coupon only fueled her enthusiasm for the quirky, bizarre foodstuffs that the Nabisco’s of the world throw at us.

I inherited this trait, albeit with a little different twist. If it’s “gourmet” and “expensive,” it will jump off the shelf and into my shopping cart.

How else could you explain the $13.49 bottle of bamboo rice that followed me home?

Rice-Raw

Yep, that’s right. $13.49 for 15 ounces of a Chinese, short-grain white rice infused with bamboo juice. Is bamboo juice scarce?

I do admit I was a bit breathless looking at the grassy green rice in the upscale, Urban Accents plastic bottle with a metal cap.

Directions are simple: Bring 1 cup of bamboo rice and 2-1/2 cups of water to a boil in a saucepan.

Boil-Rice

Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let it rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Gently fluff with a fork. The result?

A pale, icy-green, soft, sticky rice.

Cooked-rice

The taste?  Mild, perhaps a bit grassy. Does it taste like bamboo? I have no idea. I’ve never tasted bamboo (canned shoots don’t count because they only taste like the can.) Between you and me, it could use a little salt, unless you’re serving it as a base for a naturally salty stir fry.

I could see using this rice for sushi, if you’re so inclined to make sushi at home (too much trouble for me, when we have a respectable sushi restaurant just minutes away).

The color would add an interesting element to any dish. I used it as a base for a fresh, brightly flavored stir fry, with tofu, shiitakes, sugar snaps, ginger, garlic, jalapeños, cilantro and a touch of hoisin.

Will I use it again? You betcha! Gotta get my money’s worth. Will I buy it again? Yeah, probably as a gift for my hard-to-find-gifts-for foodie friends.

My mom would have loved it, too. She never met a rice grain she didn’t like.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 21, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

Congratulations to Teresa!

My highly skilled-but-unpaid assistant randomly drew Teresa’s name out of the hat this morning at 7:19 a.m.

Teresa wins an autographed copy of The Great Ranch Cookbook.

GRCweb

Thanks to everyone who participated, and if you did participate, check your inbox because I sent you a little consolation prize email notice.

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 14, 2009 | NEWS & NIBBLES

[Contest now closed. We have a winner! Thanks to all who participated!]

CupcakeSS

Holy Crap. Cow.

Pen & Fork (the journey begins with a fork…) blog is ONE YEAR OLD!

(And they said it’d never last.)

Actually, no one said that. I made it up.

In honor of being ONE YEAR OLD, I’m handing out completely unfounded awards for some of the posts I’ve written during the past year. Oh, there’s something in this for you, too. I’m not completely narcissistic.

Drum roll, please….

First Annual

Pen & Fork Blog Post Awards

PENFORKB

♥ Most popular

50 Quintessential American Dishes

This post even spurred others to create their own list and could have been the inspiration for the festival-gone-horribly-wrong.

♦ Least popular

Sink or Swim

Pretty much anything I wrote the first couple of months would qualify based on traffic counts but Sink or Swim was really fun to write.

♦ Best Recipe

Aunt Sally’s Pork Marinade

As tempted as I am to point you to one of my own creations, like the real guacamole, or a recipe from one of my three cookbooks, like the world’s most expensive granola, I awarded the best recipe to Aunt Sally’s Pork marinade because it really deserves to be in your repetoire.

♦ Best Essay

Top Ten Kitchen Tools

I’m not surprised I picked a list of kitchen tools as my favorite essay. Are you?

♦ Best Photo

Fresh Cherry Salsa

Reading other people’s blogs about photography (Smitten Kitchen and Pioneer Woman) and a photo editing class at our community college class have helped hone my photography skills. But most of the credit goes to Arizona’s gift of sunlight.

Well, folks, that about wraps up our awards ceremony. Thank you for coming. It’s been fun bringing you completely ad free, random thoughts, recipes and kitchen tips throughout this past year.

Goodnight everyone… oh, one more thing…

The real award….

One lucky commenter will get an autographed copy of my first cookbook, The Great Ranch Cookbook.

It features 30 western guest ranches from Texas to Alaska and is jam-packed with great recipes, like my very favorite Molasses Marinated Beef Tenderloin that is our traditional Christmas Day dinner and a pretty darn tasty Molten Mexican Chocolate Ecstasy that needs no other explanation.

All you have to do is leave a comment telling me what your favorite Pen & Fork post is and why. Simple!

Fine print:
Here’s how this will work. Only 1 entry per valid email address. I’ll print out every qualified comment I get between now and next Saturday night, fold it up and put it in a hat. The official deadline is 11:59 p.m. Saturday, June 20, 2009. By qualified I mean you aren’t a spammer, you commented with both the name of the post and why it was your favorite, and you have a valid email address. Sometime next Sunday, June 21, between celebrating Father’s Day, bathing the dogs and doing laundry, my assistant will select a printed comment out of the hat and that’s who gets a copy of the book. I’ll email you to get your mailing address. You agree to let me post your user name (but not your email address, I would NEVER do that) in a future blog announcing the winner. As always, employees of Pen & Fork (me) will not be eligible, nor will any family members. (I’d like to say that serial killers, dog-haters, and genuinely evil people are not eligible but I don’t think I can technically exclude them. I doubt those people read my blog anyway, so I’m probably worrying about something for nothing). Odds of winning are completely dependent upon the number of qualified entries and odds of me holding another contest like this one are completely dependent upon how this one goes.


By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 11, 2009 | RECIPES

Cherry-bath

Back in the day, my girlfriends and I would cruise to Sonic, order a cherry limeade and wait for the boys to show up. Not too long ago, I pulled into a Sonic drive-in and ordered one, just because I was feeling nostalgic. Funny how things that tasted fantastic when you were a kid somehow lose their luster when you’re an adult. The taste memory I have of cherry limeade is so much sweeter than the artificially flavored sugar water I tasted that recent day.

Still in love with the idea of the combination of sweet cherries and tart lime (and because I still have boocoos of cherries left over from the last cherry post) I whipped up a cherry lime vinaigrette.

Why vinaigrette? We eat a lot of salads in this house, year round, but especially in the summer. Coming up with new, creative vinaigrettes helps keep boredom at bay. If you want a dessert recipe using fresh Bing cherries, check out Smitten Kitchen’s recipe for sweet cherry pie (although, be forewarned, the first picture kinda hurts your eyes, even if it’s striking.)

Before you sit down to gobble up a slice pie, you might want to have a salad.

This vinaigrette doesn’t use that many cherries, but pit some extra ones (if you’re going to all the trouble of pitting anyway) to serve with the salad.

Mint is a key ingredient, along with – obviously – lime and cherries.

Mint always seems to bring out the best in fruit dishes. And, as Seattle-based @hungrygrrl says, “Mint is the new cilantro.” Although, I’m still a big fan of cilantro. Mint and cilantro? Well, whew! Mind-blowing.

Mint-Lime

Avoid extra virgin olive oil in this vinaigrette because the strong flavor of EVOO interferes with the other flavors. Pick a neutral flavored oil, like canola or use grape seed oil if you have that specialty oil. Or even an olive oil, just not extra virgin.

I make this recipe in a Vita-Mix (a blender on steroids and a toy every serious cook would love to have. Expensive? Yep, worth it? Yep.) Besides dressing your salad, you can use this vinaigrette as a marinade for chicken, too.

Cherry-Lime-Vin-4

Cherry Lime Vinaigrette

Ingredients
10 fresh cherries, pitted
6 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 3 large limes)
2 tablespoons agave nectar or honey
2 tablespoons fresh chopped mint
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper (or black if you don’t have any white pepper)
1/2 cup canola or other neutral flavored oil

Method
Place the first 6 ingredients (cherries through pepper) in a blender and puree until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. Taste (I add a pinch more salt) and adjust seasonings.

Makes 1-1/4 cups

(NOTE: You can use 1/4 cup dried sweet or tart cherries in place of the fresh cherries. But instead of a pretty pink vinaigrette, you’ll get a mucky brown one. Tastes good, just looks drab.)

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 10, 2009 | KITCHEN TOOLS

Cherries

Pretty please! With a cherry on top?

Does anyone know how or why that saying came about?After an exhaustive, 5 minute search on Google, I gave up.

I’m not giving up on getting my fill of cherries this season. And it is just about peak season for fresh, sweet cherries.

Cherry-bath2

Curl up on the couch with a big bowl of just washed cherries, pick one up by the stem, balance it between your front teeth. Yank off the stem. Bite the cherry — burst of sweet juice. Wiggle out the pit and gracefully (or not?) spit out the pit. Is there anything better than juicy, sweet cherry noshing?

Fresh cherries won’t be here long, so enjoy them while you can. At the height of the season (now through end of July) the prices come down and it’s the perfect time to stock up on cherries to freeze for dreary winter days.

To freeze cherries, first you need to pit them. And the easiest way to do that is with a cherry pitter (also called an olive pitter, for self-explanatory reasons).

What? You don’t have a cherry pitter? Why not? David Lebovitz has two (one for him and one for a friend because pitting cherries is time consuming and four hands are better than two).

Cherry-Pitter

It’s best to pit the cherries over a bowl (actually inside a deep bowl) because the magenta juice will splatter everywhere.

Once all your cherries are pitted, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet that will fit in your freezer. Freeze the cherries for about an hour. Remove and pop them into a freezer bag, squish out the air and seal. Label the bag with the date, and put back into the freezer.

The sex appeal of eating them out of hand on a hot summer evening can’t be beat, but every time I pull a cherry from the freezer in December, I smile, thinking about the simple pleasure enjoyed for a fleeting moment last summer.

But for now, make the most of fresh cherries, like whipping up this cherry salsa. Serve it as a topping for grilled fish or chicken, or eat straight out of the bowl with pita chips.

Cherry-Salsa

Fresh Cherry Salsa

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients
1 cup fresh cherries, pitted and cut into quarters
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow bell pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup dried tart cherries
1 jalapeno, minced (remove seeds if you’re a sissy)
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped
Juice of 1/2 lime
Salt and pepper to taste

Method
Place all ingredients in a bowl and stir. Taste and adjust seasonings. Let rest half an hour before serving. Best to consume the day it is made, although it will keep 1 day (just not as pretty, yet still tasty).


08
Jun

Salt

By Gwen Ashley Walters | JUNE 08, 2009 | ABOUT INGREDIENTS

SaltSalt:

The single most important ingredient in my kitchen.

(After wine, of course, but that’s for me, salt is for the food.)

Recently, a very talented home cook whipped up a gourmet meal for his guests.

As he was plating, he said, “I don’t know, it might need salt.”

He was PLATING, and he hadn’t TASTED it. (Insert screechy noise here.)

Calmly, I screamed at him, “WHAT! You’re putting food on the plate that you HAVEN’T tasted?”

(It’s a fact: chefs yell at their cooks all the time, some more than others, but yelling is a chef prerequisite, along with the ability to stand on your feet 16 hours a day, skip bathing occasionally and touching excruciatingly hot pans — repeatedly — without crying.)

The point is, a cook’s best asset is his palate, and salt is money in the bank.

Salt is a mineral that we cannot live without; ergo, it is a nutrient, but I’m no health expert. I am a cooking expert so I will talk about another role salt plays: flavor enhancer.

Harold McGee, a food scientist with impeccable credentials, explains why salt is a flavor enhancer in his book On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen (a book you should have in your library if you’re the curious, geeky type of cook.) Something about highlighting aromas while diminishing bitterness, positive and negative ions, and yadda, yadda.

All I know is that when I taste a sauce or vinaigrette or any dish, I’m thinking, “how does it taste?”

Add a pinch of salt, stir and taste again. Wow — difference. Flavors pop. Add a little more salt and repeat until the tastes buds say, “that’s perfect.”

Learning when enough is enough is a trial and error process. Taste, add, taste, add. Stop! Dang, too salty. It happens.

You won’t learn if you don’t experiment. It’s impossible to learn if you transfer food from pot to plate without tasting it.

Which kind of salt you use is really a matter of personal preference. I attended a salt tasting once and came away with a head full of salt notes and a burned out palate.

Table salt, sea salt, kosher salt, flavored salt, handcrafted salt — salt is salt.

There are nuances to salts, whether it’s the pinkish Murray River salt from Australia, the red clay salt from Hawaii, Fleur de Sel from France, Mauldon English salt and hundreds of salts in between.

I prefer plain old kosher salt for everyday cooking and seasoning. It’s clean (no additives), the larger crystals dissolve quicker than table salt, and it’s inexpensive compared to sea salt or specialty salts.

That said, I do like to use the specialty salts as a finishing salt, sprinkling on at the last minute for appearance and taste.

If you’re interested in stocking your pantry with specialty salts, check out Salt Works, a company based near Seattle that specializes in salts from around the world, or The Meadow, a gorgeous salt boutique in Portland.

Whichever salt you use, taste your food before and after and soon you’ll build your own salt flavor bank.

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